PCS trans controller + 4L80E best route?
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
PCS trans controller + 4L80E best route?
TCM 2000 and 4L80E.
Is anyone running this combo? If so how do you like it? I have a fully built 4L80E with transbrake here going behind a non-GM engine and I'm looking for the best controller for street and strip for this trans from people who have used them.
Any other standalone trans controllers worth having a look at or engine/trans controllers that work well on non-GM (24x crank + 1x cam mag pickups and needs to run 6 coils, 5 BAR boost) engine with this trans? Power level will be around 900 + single fogger this time around and the car is about 3800 lbs + driver.
Is anyone running this combo? If so how do you like it? I have a fully built 4L80E with transbrake here going behind a non-GM engine and I'm looking for the best controller for street and strip for this trans from people who have used them.
Any other standalone trans controllers worth having a look at or engine/trans controllers that work well on non-GM (24x crank + 1x cam mag pickups and needs to run 6 coils, 5 BAR boost) engine with this trans? Power level will be around 900 + single fogger this time around and the car is about 3800 lbs + driver.
Last edited by 05HD; 02-26-2011 at 03:50 PM.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
First impression:
This thing is garbage. It only has a serial cable for comms (welcome to 1990). Refuses to communicate with laptop via Radio Shack serial to usb adapter (very stable adapter I have used on many different old systems with this laptop running most stable version of windows XP). Now sitting on my hands waiting for the "special approved PCS usb adapter" to arrive.
Also, the universal GM "4Lwhatever" harness is pretty crappy. Breakouts are all in the wrong places for any trans you may have and "13 pin" connector is extra long, taking up space I don't have in the tunnel. Time to drop the trans back out and get the 5 lb hammer back out to make room for the giant connector...
This thing is garbage. It only has a serial cable for comms (welcome to 1990). Refuses to communicate with laptop via Radio Shack serial to usb adapter (very stable adapter I have used on many different old systems with this laptop running most stable version of windows XP). Now sitting on my hands waiting for the "special approved PCS usb adapter" to arrive.
Also, the universal GM "4Lwhatever" harness is pretty crappy. Breakouts are all in the wrong places for any trans you may have and "13 pin" connector is extra long, taking up space I don't have in the tunnel. Time to drop the trans back out and get the 5 lb hammer back out to make room for the giant connector...
#4
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
i used a stand alone Conpushift controller, worked great-they now have the Compushift 2, a little diff than the orig, but same features, plus a few more
no laptop needed, i could dial in anything i wanted-there are some a little cheaper, but the Compushift did everything i needed, and comes comp, TPS and all wiring
my other car with the orig Compushift made well over 600 RWHP, and i built the trans myself, it hit every shift, and i could dial in any lockup speed for the highway-im computer stupid, so avoiding a comp. was a big plus, lol
no laptop needed, i could dial in anything i wanted-there are some a little cheaper, but the Compushift did everything i needed, and comes comp, TPS and all wiring
my other car with the orig Compushift made well over 600 RWHP, and i built the trans myself, it hit every shift, and i could dial in any lockup speed for the highway-im computer stupid, so avoiding a comp. was a big plus, lol
#5
First impression:
This thing is garbage. It only has a serial cable for comms (welcome to 1990). Refuses to communicate with laptop via Radio Shack serial to usb adapter (very stable adapter I have used on many different old systems with this laptop running most stable version of windows XP). Now sitting on my hands waiting for the "special approved PCS usb adapter" to arrive.
Also, the universal GM "4Lwhatever" harness is pretty crappy. Breakouts are all in the wrong places for any trans you may have and "13 pin" connector is extra long, taking up space I don't have in the tunnel. Time to drop the trans back out and get the 5 lb hammer back out to make room for the giant connector...
This thing is garbage. It only has a serial cable for comms (welcome to 1990). Refuses to communicate with laptop via Radio Shack serial to usb adapter (very stable adapter I have used on many different old systems with this laptop running most stable version of windows XP). Now sitting on my hands waiting for the "special approved PCS usb adapter" to arrive.
Also, the universal GM "4Lwhatever" harness is pretty crappy. Breakouts are all in the wrong places for any trans you may have and "13 pin" connector is extra long, taking up space I don't have in the tunnel. Time to drop the trans back out and get the 5 lb hammer back out to make room for the giant connector...
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Maybe I should have went with the one you can tune with a screwdriver. That appears to be the PCS solution to comms problems, instead of making a more robust comm protocol.
#7
I know who they sell stuff to. Maybe I am just spoiled usually being able to communicate with a controller right out of the box. My tuning gear is specifically tailored to facilitate that as much as possible. I am reserving my final opinion for when (and if) I can actually get this thing talking.
Maybe I should have went with the one you can tune with a screwdriver. That appears to be the PCS solution to comms problems, instead of making a more robust comm protocol.
Maybe I should have went with the one you can tune with a screwdriver. That appears to be the PCS solution to comms problems, instead of making a more robust comm protocol.
this is one of the best out there. PCS is also the one that makes controllers for AM General our military controllers. No question that they are very reliable.
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#9
I have not seen anyone that can control the GTO Speedo yet, FAST, TCI and GM get there controller from PCS. The GTO speedo is done via Classs 2 messaging.
#10
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
It will... you just need to wire it correctly...
Don't use the speedo output wire.
Instead splice into the vss at the rear of the tranny...splitting the signal to the controller and to the vehicle pcm.
Vss should be 40pulse per rev
Then you make sure to reflect that in your tune.
The speed out wire is just to drive an analog speedo looking for 4000 ppm.
Your gm speedo is fed thru serial data....
#11
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
also
the pcs or tci controller(same thing different labels)
don't just work well straight out of the box and they aren't pre programmed because they are made to control many different transmissions
you have to do some tweaking to get the tune to make better sense
I actually use the tci branded box for my tci 6x
As far as the control thru rs232 goes...
unfortunately their adapter will not work if the radio shack one didn't work..same thing rebranded.
I have a similar problem and was getting a runtime error...
the solution is to buy a keyspan usa-19hs..I believe it's now made by tripplite
the pcs or tci controller(same thing different labels)
don't just work well straight out of the box and they aren't pre programmed because they are made to control many different transmissions
you have to do some tweaking to get the tune to make better sense
I actually use the tci branded box for my tci 6x
As far as the control thru rs232 goes...
unfortunately their adapter will not work if the radio shack one didn't work..same thing rebranded.
I have a similar problem and was getting a runtime error...
the solution is to buy a keyspan usa-19hs..I believe it's now made by tripplite
#12
also
the pcs or tci controller(same thing different labels)
don't just work well straight out of the box and they aren't pre programmed because they are made to control many different transmissions
you have to do some tweaking to get the tune to make better sense
I actually use the tci branded box for my tci 6x
As far as the control thru rs232 goes...
unfortunately their adapter will not work if the radio shack one didn't work..same thing rebranded.
I have a similar problem and was getting a runtime error...
the solution is to buy a keyspan usa-19hs..I believe it's now made by tripplite
the pcs or tci controller(same thing different labels)
don't just work well straight out of the box and they aren't pre programmed because they are made to control many different transmissions
you have to do some tweaking to get the tune to make better sense
I actually use the tci branded box for my tci 6x
As far as the control thru rs232 goes...
unfortunately their adapter will not work if the radio shack one didn't work..same thing rebranded.
I have a similar problem and was getting a runtime error...
the solution is to buy a keyspan usa-19hs..I believe it's now made by tripplite
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
I'm pretty happy with my Compushift. The only knocks are that you can't lock the converter at WOT and that I had to buy an extra piece of hardware in order to calibrate the speedo correctly.
Compushifts tech support was real good. Mike (I think that's his name), the designer/engineer, was right there every time I had a question.
Compushifts tech support was real good. Mike (I think that's his name), the designer/engineer, was right there every time I had a question.
#14
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
do you have the orig compushift cont., or the comp shift 2-the orig one you can lock at full throttle, there is a trick, Mike can tell you, i think i remember, but dont want to give you the wrong info-the comp 2 there are no holds on reprograming for like WOT lockup
i locked mine at WOT for a dyno test, they have it locked out after 50%, but you use an Adm. type deal to get in and change it, kind of like a control on your TV so your kids cant see your **** channel, lol
i locked mine at WOT for a dyno test, they have it locked out after 50%, but you use an Adm. type deal to get in and change it, kind of like a control on your TV so your kids cant see your **** channel, lol
#15
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
do you have the orig compushift cont., or the comp shift 2-the orig one you can lock at full throttle, there is a trick, Mike can tell you, i think i remember, but dont want to give you the wrong info-the comp 2 there are no holds on reprograming for like WOT lockup
i locked mine at WOT for a dyno test, they have it locked out after 50%, but you use an Adm. type deal to get in and change it, kind of like a control on your TV so your kids cant see your **** channel, lol
i locked mine at WOT for a dyno test, they have it locked out after 50%, but you use an Adm. type deal to get in and change it, kind of like a control on your TV so your kids cant see your **** channel, lol
Wow the Comp II looks nice. Seems like every time I buy something, a new and improved unit comes to market shortly thereafter...
#16
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
something else to keep in mind as an option...
TCI makes their EZ-TCU, it is the replacement for the PCS Blue/TCI Redbox controller
it comes with a handheld programmer so it requires no computer to do the programming
Basic settings to make it easier to use as well...
the initial calibrations are a good start, and you can firm up shifts(or soften them if you want) and there is a normal and performance mode setting.
it works really well...
the only downside was that if you have a large stall(3600+) you may not like it at part throttle...the settings were more designed for a smaller "stock" ish stall
for me it was shifting too soon at part throttle even at its most aggressive setting, but I also have a Yank PY3600 that stalls up close to 4500 on my motor
TCI makes their EZ-TCU, it is the replacement for the PCS Blue/TCI Redbox controller
it comes with a handheld programmer so it requires no computer to do the programming
Basic settings to make it easier to use as well...
the initial calibrations are a good start, and you can firm up shifts(or soften them if you want) and there is a normal and performance mode setting.
it works really well...
the only downside was that if you have a large stall(3600+) you may not like it at part throttle...the settings were more designed for a smaller "stock" ish stall
for me it was shifting too soon at part throttle even at its most aggressive setting, but I also have a Yank PY3600 that stalls up close to 4500 on my motor
Last edited by soundengineer; 04-17-2011 at 01:52 PM.
#17
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
Any other standalone trans controllers worth having a look at or engine/trans controllers that work well on non-GM (24x crank + 1x cam mag pickups and needs to run 6 coils, 5 BAR boost) engine with this trans? Power level will be around 900 + single fogger this time around and the car is about 3800 lbs + driver.
#19
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
it shifts into higher gears too soon and puts you in your top gear way to early for part throttle around town if you have a big stall...
Just kind of sucks if you have a big stall.. .it still works fine.. just you will be reving up a lot higher rpm's around town
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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It will... you just need to wire it correctly...
Don't use the speedo output wire.
Instead splice into the vss at the rear of the tranny...splitting the signal to the controller and to the vehicle pcm.
Vss should be 40pulse per rev
Then you make sure to reflect that in your tune.
The speed out wire is just to drive an analog speedo looking for 4000 ppm.
Your gm speedo is fed thru serial data....
Don't use the speedo output wire.
Instead splice into the vss at the rear of the tranny...splitting the signal to the controller and to the vehicle pcm.
Vss should be 40pulse per rev
Then you make sure to reflect that in your tune.
The speed out wire is just to drive an analog speedo looking for 4000 ppm.
Your gm speedo is fed thru serial data....
If so, that is how Tom's2005gto has the car wired currently. It is piggybacked from the 2 pin VSS output on the trans, over to the signal wire to the factory vss input at the PCM. This does not work. The speedometer will read relatively "close" to correct speed, but it does not hold a consistant reading, and if you stay running a constant speed, the speedometer will just drop to 0mph until you slow down or speed up.
As far as ppr settings, at 40, it's is No Where near accurate.
Any insight into this? It's a nagging problem for ALOT of Gto owners.