Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I'll take a video here in a second of what it takes to get my 3800 stall'd almost 4000 pound pig moving. It doesn't take all that much, maybe I just haven't payed attention to it. brb to get you a video.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Cruising through my neighborhood, sorry I was going to get on the highway, but didn't want to put any gas in the tank.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt_YlmQupZo

And here is one flashing at WOT, it's really tight when not in boost, but on the transbrake and with john deere hygard lite fluid I currently launch at 4100rpm on the two step and could go higher possibly.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGbbD6jGyq4

Sorry for the horrible quality it was taken on my phone.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Fbodyjunkie06, thanks for the videos! acceleration at 2100-2200 looks approx. like mine, maybe yours a bit better.
And I tried flashing mine in 3rd gear, flashes to about 3800 on the tach
p.s. my videos are phone-shot too

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

Like 14mpg. I modded it with performance in mind not mileage.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I just didn't want you to get discouraged and think yours was the only one doing that. I think the world of Greg at FTI who did my converter. This converter is great, it really is efficient for what it is. It seems your converter does want to slip a little bit more than mine even being a smaller stall speed. It sounds like the stator is a little too high multiplying the tq in your car just a little too much and not allowing it to acclererate quicker in 1st gear from take off.

Circle D verter right?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

hm, I used to get 8mpg when it was M6 performance is good but when you spend almost $1 per mile just to get to work, it's not that much fun anymore

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

yepp, your does look a little tighter, even with lower gear (BTW, why did you change 3.08 for 3.55?). But yes, it seems my converter is performing as it should, it's just too much of a difference to me, rev to 2300 when I took off at 700rpm before, with M6

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

What size rear tire is on the car? What is your rear gear?

I swapped from a 3.08 to a 3.55 for two reasons. One, my car hardly ever and I mean ever sees the 1/4 mile. 2nd at the 1/8 I was either crossing the traps on the rev limiter in 2nd, or shifting into 3rd literally 20ft from the finish line killing my e.t. and mph.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

3.73 gear, 315/35-R17 on the street and either 26-10.5 ET street OR 28x11.5 ET drag. I don't yet which will I use, last (and only) time I tried car wasn't tuned right and 28x11.5 felt a bit overkill for 450hpish car

ZeeTwentyFate

iTrader: (19)

your lockup issue might be due to using the 80e tune, i know a lot of people convert it to a 60e file and pin swap one wire to cure TCC issues. if you dont mind, i have been following you around here waiting you to get your trans wired up, did you end up finding anything hwlpful to do it yourself, i REALLY need to get mine done! but if i were you i would email HPT again and get a LS1 automatic tune and do the pin swap. thats my plan. i hear too many issues with the 80e tunes

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Ok I was going to tell you a longer(numerically lower gear set) will cause more slip due to more load on the converter, so your not close to a high gear set with 3.73's. And a taller tire will also make the converter slip more and you don't really have that tall a tire with 26" tall tires on the street which is what I'm guessing you had on when you made that video and not the 28" et drags.

With all that taken in to account, having a lower gear set(numerically higher number) and a short tire your car should take off pretty quick with little to no load in 1st and little load in 2nd. Honestly I don't think it should be slipping that much allowing it to stall that high.

I'd honestly talk to Circle D and express my concerns with them that the stall is too high and that you would like a re-stall and to try and work something out with them.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Zee, didn't quite get what you ask. I did all the wiring by myself. And I didn't figure out yet which wires should I change to control tranny with 4L60E tune.
As to lockup - I figured out error codes that prevent locking. I get:
[PCM] P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
[PCM] P0803 - 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
When I clear them, TC locks up, but then it unlocks and codes turn up again. I have to figure out what they mean and how to cure it...

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Fbodyjunkie06, I see what you mean. Indeed I thought it should slip a bit less and should need a bit less revs to take off. Talked to Chris at , but he thinks this is OK. I would still want it a bit tighter, but too much hassle to send it for restall

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I understand you being so far away that it is a hassle. Sorry to hear you were unable to get it tightened.

Here is something the X275 and Outlaw Drag Radial guys do at home when they want their converter tighter they use John Deere Hygard Transmission Fluid/Oil. It is thicker than a normal ATF and is great at keeping heat from building up in the fluid. I use the Hygard Lite(a lighter viscosity to actually loosen the converter more) which helped me launch 200rpm higher so far as I haven't tried to go higher yet.

Off the transbrake my converter would flash to 4200 or so off the transbrake, now it's flashing to 4500-4700 rpm off the hit from 3950 where the 2 step comes on at, (the tach and msd module are set at 4200 rpm, but they are off according to HPT datalog).

As you see from my videos though out of boost driving it on the road flooring it in 2nd it flashed to 3600-3800 which is why I will always go with Greg@FTI. He knows how to make them tight down low and loose where they need to be and still be efficient crossing the stripe.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

If you get a P0801 and P0803, you need some more tuning, those are FOR SURE T56 codes. If the segment swap was done, they for sure didn't check the diagnostic codes.

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Yes, I figured out these codes are thrown because of manual tune as a start. Can I just disable these codes in HPT and be happy?


Fbodyjunkie06, thanx for the option, I'll keep it in mind that you can alter stall a bit with thicker fluid

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Definitely try that. Who did your segment swap?

Vetal

iTrader: (3)

Turned these codes off (after comparing to couple of other files I found). Now TC still doesn't lock because PCM senses misfires. I found one my spark plug wire is bad, maybe this is the cause. Damn, another 2 weeks wait time no one stocks LS1 parts here
edit: HPTuners did the segment swap

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Max out the all the misfires tables in Engine Diagnostics. It should lock, even with the plug wire burnt.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Slow knows his stuff when it comes to tuning and tranny's.

He can point you in the right direction for sure.

Good work helping a fellow member out slow.:thumbsup: