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Won't up shift at wot!!!

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Old 01-14-2012, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkyarddog89
No I DID have clutches go out at 38K the tranny was toast, no joke. But for sure man I'll keep whoever is interested posted as I can get things done on it.
You or somebody before you did something wrong to that car than. Ran it low on fluid or something. There is NO reason for clutches to go out that early. No reason at all.....
Old 01-14-2012, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkyarddog89
I would love to but here in Colorado, IT'S WINTER. Getting a Camaro out of a steep driveway and up a very hilly street is not currently an option I have until some ice and snow melts sir.
I live in cheyenne and drove my car every day this week. Its not that bad...

BTW let me know if you need any help with it. I can hook up EFI Live and help see what's going on..
Old 01-14-2012, 02:01 AM
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Thats what I was told as well, It turned out my clutches were worn and I had a pump going out. I have a brand new tranny in there now with less than 6K on it and I still got the same problem. If you figure anything out let me know.
No I DID have clutches go out at 38K the tranny was toast, no joke. But for sure man I'll keep whoever is interested posted as I can get things done on it.
wait wait wait LOL. You say you had a tranny go bad with 38k and than they replaced it with a good transmission and you still have the same problem????????? Not trying to be a dick, but if you had a problem and you put a new tranny in and it still has the exact same problem IT WAS NOT THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES WITH THE PROBLEM. It has got to be something electrical. And why in the hell have you put 6k on a car with this kind of problem?
Old 01-16-2012, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by sweet99ss
wait wait wait LOL. You say you had a tranny go bad with 38k and than they replaced it with a good transmission and you still have the same problem????????? Not trying to be a dick, but if you had a problem and you put a new tranny in and it still has the exact same problem IT WAS NOT THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES WITH THE PROBLEM. It has got to be something electrical. And why in the hell have you put 6k on a car with this kind of problem?
I know that now, but the warranty company ordered the tranny to be changed because of excess clutch material in the pan so they did. The pump would howl if I didn't let the car warm up before I shifted it so I'm sure that had something to do with it. It took me a while to realize the problem was still there because I didn't run the car at WOT often before that, and it drives fine otherwise, and besides I still got a warranty on the car and another one for the tranny so if it happens again its not outta my pocket. I'm sure you all think warranties are for pussies and whatever but I have so I might as well use it. I noticed the problem still existed about a week or two before I started this thread and haven't really been able to drive it sense. This isn't my first car I have a pretty good idea when you should and shouldn't drive something..
Old 01-16-2012, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkyarddog89
I know that now, but the warranty company ordered the tranny to be changed because of excess clutch material in the pan so they did. The pump would howl if I didn't let the car warm up before I shifted it so I'm sure that had something to do with it. It took me a while to realize the problem was still there because I didn't run the car at WOT often before that, and it drives fine otherwise, and besides I still got a warranty on the car and another one for the tranny so if it happens again its not outta my pocket. I'm sure you all think warranties are for pussies and whatever but I have so I might as well use it. I noticed the problem still existed about a week or two before I started this thread and haven't really been able to drive it sense. This isn't my first car I have a pretty good idea when you should and shouldn't drive something..
Yea not your fault. I just think they diagnosed it wrong and put a tranny in when it wasn't needed. Like I said there is no way the clutches were worn down with 38k miles on the car..... Not trying to come off as a dick. I just couldn't drive my car 6k with a problem that wouldn't let me go WOT. WOT is the best part lol.
Old 01-16-2012, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
I live in cheyenne and drove my car every day this week. Its not that bad...

BTW let me know if you need any help with it. I can hook up EFI Live and help see what's going on..
I'm in the mountains with a lot of evergreens that don't really let the ice/snow melt on the road leading to the highway and I got a good sized hill to go up as well. And Thank you I might take you up on that.
Old 01-16-2012, 12:14 AM
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I couldn't live in colorado...
Old 01-16-2012, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sweet99ss
Yea not your fault. I just think they diagnosed it wrong and put a tranny in when it wasn't needed. Like I said there is no way the clutches were worn down with 38k miles on the car..... Not trying to come off as a dick. I just couldn't drive my car 6k with a problem that wouldn't let me go WOT. WOT is the best part lol.
Originally Posted by sweet99ss
I couldn't live in colorado...
It was needed lol, You could feel it when you drove it but it certenly wasn't the only problem. When that ATF sits in there for a long time and isn't pumped though the tranny occasionally it eats those cluches up, I bought it with 33K and put 5K on it pretty quick, I drove the hell out of it for the first few months I had it. But they did there thing, re mapped the ecu test drove it and said it was good to go.. so I took that as it was good to go.. drove it and didn't think much of it. And yes WOT is the best part but I drive for a living and can't risk a stupid ticket so I'm pretty mild mannered on the road.

Colorado ain't that bad once you get past the fact that all your cars are slower up here, you live with snow 75% of the year where I'm at, there is no beach, and the cost of living blows... Wait... Why do I live here?
Old 04-14-2012, 01:39 PM
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So FINALLY got around to getting the car out, and I'm pretty sure I have traced the problem to a bad MAF. Should I go with OEM or spring for an aftermarket one since I have to replace it anyway? The car is still stock. Thanks in advance.
Old 04-14-2012, 03:48 PM
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Did you see my thread? My problem was my tach being off, you sure yours is correct?
Old 04-14-2012, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Black98T/A
Did you see my thread? My problem was my tach being off, you sure yours is correct?
No I didn't, it seems right to me but I have never really thought about it. I honestly didn't know a tach could be off, how would I find out if it is or isn't?
Old 05-16-2012, 09:32 AM
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Red face Late "entry"...

Having this problem, too.
05 LQ4/ 4L60E....Freshened up, [had 15K on it, since new.]
From a brake stall, the 1/2 is always good. 2-3 is waay over the commanded specs. [Commanded 60 mph/5400Rpm], saw waay over 6K, let off, shifts.
From a 3rd gear cruise speed,[40-50], go WOT, with a d/shift to 2, the upshift is OK.[Less accel G's allowing the fluid to stay put??]
Am using EFILIVE. Will check level, log it, try a spare MAF, log it, and report.
I'm going to look at the wiring on the speedo,[Autometer], and confirm the VSS signal from the PCM, is making the trip. [A SUN nostalgia electronic tach appears to match the PCM RPM signal. No pull up issues]

Two ? have come up: Can there be too much/not enough spread in the mph vs rpm??
What effect/how does the accuracy/fault in the MAF affect the shift, if 0101,0102,0103 are not reporting?

More latr..

TIA,

Last edited by Old Geezer; 05-16-2012 at 06:42 PM.
Old 05-16-2012, 05:33 PM
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MAF accuracy, elevation, etc. affect the air mass value
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
Old 05-16-2012, 06:38 PM
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Talking Update..

Originally Posted by jimmyblue
MAF accuracy, elevation, etc. affect the air mass value
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
Jimmy B, Thanks for the reply.

I've checked the wiring on the Speedo and found it to be correctly set up. Vss to pin 21/green conn. Out to the speedo on wire 50/green conn. [Pin 20 is vss low].
I've verified the correct gearing and tire size.

I am now setting up the pids to log trans performance.
I will run Calc.VET before I do the trans logs. This will verify/modify the MAF and VE tables.[Should they need it.]

Once all is complete, I'll post the results.
Old 03-10-2017, 08:46 AM
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I'll bring this back because I am having the same problem and would like to know exactly what the OP's issue was. That may help me it may not but what really pisses me off is reading through three pages of posts only to get to a DEAD END! At least two people posted on here saying they would "post results".
Old 03-11-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Major Shart
I'll bring this back because I am having the same problem and would like to know exactly what the OP's issue was. That may help me it may not but what really pisses me off is reading through three pages of posts only to get to a DEAD END! At least two people posted on here saying they would "post results".
Sadly rarely to people post results or followups . But first thing to do if you have not already is get a scanner or tuner on it and make sure the command to shift is actually being given in time. Bear in mind you cannot set the shift at 6000 rpm and expect it to complete at that RPM and speed . But mechanics do not work instant like electronics so takes some time for instance it might take 300 rpm or more depending on power level and gearing to complete the shift from 1-2 if you rev limiter happens before that you wont make the shift,2-3 takes even more time so might need 600 or more RPM to make the shift again if rev limiter is before that you wont make shift. So this is the place to check first.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
Sadly rarely to people post results or followups . But first thing to do if you have not already is get a scanner or tuner on it and make sure the command to shift is actually being given in time. Bear in mind you cannot set the shift at 6000 rpm and expect it to complete at that RPM and speed . But mechanics do not work instant like electronics so takes some time for instance it might take 300 rpm or more depending on power level and gearing to complete the shift from 1-2 if you rev limiter happens before that you wont make the shift,2-3 takes even more time so might need 600 or more RPM to make the shift again if rev limiter is before that you wont make shift. So this is the place to check first.

Thanks I'll check it out.
Old 04-29-2017, 09:59 PM
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HI I'm having the same issue with blowing past my shift points on the 2-3 shift an I was hoping u could give me some advice.. 98 camaro all bolt on car 60k.. just installed the 200 dollar hd2 kit from pbr an yank ss converter 3.73 gears.. so that's the back round of the car an the issue I'm having is my 2-3 shift keeps hitting Rev limit the shift is set at 5900 rpm an 61mph... max Rev limit set at 6300..can you give me some advice on what to try to change as far as tuning..my local tuner guy is awesome an always willing to take time to help me out he uses hp tuners
Old 04-30-2017, 09:31 AM
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First, overfilling by 1/2 quart seems to help prevent 2->3 flares with the shallow pan transmissions.

Also:
I first ran a '98 PCM on my (previous) LS2 and then changed to a '02 (411) PCM.
Not absolutely sure of this, but my logging (and feeling) is that the '98 PCM starts the shift at the tuned RPM while the 411 starts the shift a few hundred RPM before the tuned value.
Seems the plan with the 411 was to have the shift complete around the tuned RPM.
However with the '98 starting the shift at tuned value, the engine will still accelerate a few hundred RPM during the shift.
Therefore your shift RPM and rev limit might simply be too close together for a '98 PCM.

If these ideas don't help, then it still is possible your 3/4 clutch simply is slipping and/or worn out.

I always suggest connecting a trans pressure gauge to ensure the line pressure reaches 200-240 psi during high throttle. Even blipping the throttle in Park should get close to that pressure.
Old 04-30-2017, 01:18 PM
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OK I'll try line pressure.. awesome info.. I don't want to screw this up . I just filled my trans with fluid so on the dipstick how much past the hot liNE is 1/2 qt extra?


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