building a stock 4l60e on a budget
01-16-2012, 08:40 PM
#1
building a stock 4l60e on a budget Figured I'd ask the gurus over here...it's for the v6, but as far as I know most of our internals in the 4l60e are the same minus the bellhousing and inputshaft sizes.
Anyways, background: car is a heads/cam/stalled car (3200 TCI) put down 240rwhp through the stall on a mustang dyno and was still making power when I stopped the pull at 6,000rpm. She has enough power to tank 2 10 bolt rear ends and now has a ford 8.8 sitting in the rear with 4.10 gears.
My current tranny makes a grinding/whirring sound on light throttle and decel that sounds similar to that of when you pass over rumble strips. We've isolated the noise to be coming from the tailshaft of the trans. This same tranny has been having that famous 2-3 no shift that I keep reading about, but can never find an answer to. **** on it.
I found a new junkyard tranny with 48,000miles (77,000km) for $250 and Im picking it up tomorrow.
Few questions:
1) how should I store/transport this thing as I believe they have emptied all the oil from it and I don't want anything to develop rust or anything like that...?
2) I'm going to reuse my stall/torque converter that is currently in the car, I plan on having it cut/cleaned if I find anything in the oil (which I suspect there will be)
What else should I be buying that I can put in the transmission that will help it live up to abuse and last? (this is on a budget as well, I wanted to go with a level 2 from performabuilt, but the money isn't there right now)
I drive the car aggressively, as a DD in the summer/spring/fall, and it does see the strip with slicks a few times a year.
3) with the above being said, I have been looking at the trans go HD-2 shift kit, and a deeper pan to go with my trans cooler. Do I need a deeper pan? I don't think I really need the cooling (as I have the cooler) but I'm thinking the extra fluid would really help out? What else?
Speak in laymans terms to me here, I'm great with the motor, but when it comes to the tranny...I know how to fill it with fluid and that's about it.
Any help is appreciated guys.
Anyways, background: car is a heads/cam/stalled car (3200 TCI) put down 240rwhp through the stall on a mustang dyno and was still making power when I stopped the pull at 6,000rpm. She has enough power to tank 2 10 bolt rear ends and now has a ford 8.8 sitting in the rear with 4.10 gears.
My current tranny makes a grinding/whirring sound on light throttle and decel that sounds similar to that of when you pass over rumble strips. We've isolated the noise to be coming from the tailshaft of the trans. This same tranny has been having that famous 2-3 no shift that I keep reading about, but can never find an answer to. **** on it.
I found a new junkyard tranny with 48,000miles (77,000km) for $250 and Im picking it up tomorrow.
Few questions:
1) how should I store/transport this thing as I believe they have emptied all the oil from it and I don't want anything to develop rust or anything like that...?
2) I'm going to reuse my stall/torque converter that is currently in the car, I plan on having it cut/cleaned if I find anything in the oil (which I suspect there will be)
What else should I be buying that I can put in the transmission that will help it live up to abuse and last? (this is on a budget as well, I wanted to go with a level 2 from performabuilt, but the money isn't there right now)
I drive the car aggressively, as a DD in the summer/spring/fall, and it does see the strip with slicks a few times a year.
3) with the above being said, I have been looking at the trans go HD-2 shift kit, and a deeper pan to go with my trans cooler. Do I need a deeper pan? I don't think I really need the cooling (as I have the cooler) but I'm thinking the extra fluid would really help out? What else?
Speak in laymans terms to me here, I'm great with the motor, but when it comes to the tranny...I know how to fill it with fluid and that's about it.
Any help is appreciated guys.
01-22-2012, 04:22 PM
#3
bump, come on, I know a lot of lower powered v8 guys aren't all going to 4l80e's....and I know alot of guys do budget builds...what are you bolt on lsx guys, or cam only guys doing to preserve your 4l60e...we have the exact same parts minus input/output shaft sizes...what applies to me, applies to you...someone has to know something...
01-23-2012, 04:53 PM
#4
figured i'd ask the gurus over here...it's for the v6, but as far as i know most of our internals in the 4l60e are the same minus the bellhousing and inputshaft sizes.
Anyways, background: Car is a heads/cam/stalled car (3200 tci) put down 240rwhp through the stall on a mustang dyno and was still making power when i stopped the pull at 6,000rpm. She has enough power to tank 2 10 bolt rear ends and now has a ford 8.8 sitting in the rear with 4.10 gears.
My current tranny makes a grinding/whirring sound on light throttle and decel that sounds similar to that of when you pass over rumble strips. We've isolated the noise to be coming from the tailshaft of the trans. This same tranny has been having that famous 2-3 no shift that i keep reading about, but can never find an answer to. **** on it.
I found a new junkyard tranny with 48,000miles (77,000km) for $250 and im picking it up tomorrow.
Few questions:
1) how should i store/transport this thing as i believe they have emptied all the oil from it and i don't want anything to develop rust or anything like that...?
ensure as much oil is as drained as possible. I'd take the oil pan off and flip the transmission over and let it all come out from the crevices in the valve body and whatnot. Clean the exterior for a couple of minutes after putting the oil pan back on, wrap it on a garbage back and put it in the back of a truck or in your car if have room. The case won't develop rust, if any internals have rust on them, use a wire wheel or a wire wheel drill bit extension and "wheel it off". The biggest thing to look for regarding rust is rust on the splines of the shafts. If the rust has been on there too long and the splines are "dimpled" from the rust, throw it out.
2) i'm going to reuse my stall/torque converter that is currently in the car, i plan on having it cut/cleaned if i find anything in the oil (which i suspect there will be)
what else should i be buying that i can put in the transmission that will help it live up to abuse and last? (this is on a budget as well, i wanted to go with a level 2 from performabuilt, but the money isn't there right now)
i drive the car aggressively, as a dd in the summer/spring/fall, and it does see the strip with slicks a few times a year.
there are a few tricks you can do with the 4l60e to improve but my area is more 4l80es so i don't know if i should comment on this or not. I would just buy a quality stock rebuild kit if you're doing this yourself and add in an upgraded sun shell and a few other hydraulic modifications.
3) with the above being said, i have been looking at the trans go hd-2 shift kit, and a deeper pan to go with my trans cooler. Do i need a deeper pan? I don't think i really need the cooling (as i have the cooler) but i'm thinking the extra fluid would really help out? What else?
Speak in laymans terms to me here, i'm great with the motor, but when it comes to the tranny...i know how to fill it with fluid and that's about it.
since you said you're only looking to support about 200-350 rwhp, the shift kit should be fine. What cooler did you choose? I don't think you'll need a deeper pan regardless.
any help is appreciated guys.
you're welcome
Anyways, background: Car is a heads/cam/stalled car (3200 tci) put down 240rwhp through the stall on a mustang dyno and was still making power when i stopped the pull at 6,000rpm. She has enough power to tank 2 10 bolt rear ends and now has a ford 8.8 sitting in the rear with 4.10 gears.
My current tranny makes a grinding/whirring sound on light throttle and decel that sounds similar to that of when you pass over rumble strips. We've isolated the noise to be coming from the tailshaft of the trans. This same tranny has been having that famous 2-3 no shift that i keep reading about, but can never find an answer to. **** on it.
I found a new junkyard tranny with 48,000miles (77,000km) for $250 and im picking it up tomorrow.
Few questions:
1) how should i store/transport this thing as i believe they have emptied all the oil from it and i don't want anything to develop rust or anything like that...?
ensure as much oil is as drained as possible. I'd take the oil pan off and flip the transmission over and let it all come out from the crevices in the valve body and whatnot. Clean the exterior for a couple of minutes after putting the oil pan back on, wrap it on a garbage back and put it in the back of a truck or in your car if have room. The case won't develop rust, if any internals have rust on them, use a wire wheel or a wire wheel drill bit extension and "wheel it off". The biggest thing to look for regarding rust is rust on the splines of the shafts. If the rust has been on there too long and the splines are "dimpled" from the rust, throw it out.
2) i'm going to reuse my stall/torque converter that is currently in the car, i plan on having it cut/cleaned if i find anything in the oil (which i suspect there will be)
what else should i be buying that i can put in the transmission that will help it live up to abuse and last? (this is on a budget as well, i wanted to go with a level 2 from performabuilt, but the money isn't there right now)
i drive the car aggressively, as a dd in the summer/spring/fall, and it does see the strip with slicks a few times a year.
there are a few tricks you can do with the 4l60e to improve but my area is more 4l80es so i don't know if i should comment on this or not. I would just buy a quality stock rebuild kit if you're doing this yourself and add in an upgraded sun shell and a few other hydraulic modifications.
3) with the above being said, i have been looking at the trans go hd-2 shift kit, and a deeper pan to go with my trans cooler. Do i need a deeper pan? I don't think i really need the cooling (as i have the cooler) but i'm thinking the extra fluid would really help out? What else?
Speak in laymans terms to me here, i'm great with the motor, but when it comes to the tranny...i know how to fill it with fluid and that's about it.
since you said you're only looking to support about 200-350 rwhp, the shift kit should be fine. What cooler did you choose? I don't think you'll need a deeper pan regardless.
any help is appreciated guys.
you're welcome
01-23-2012, 07:50 PM
#5
Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: abington,ma
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
try this!!! raybetos z-pack. its a heavy duty 3-4 clutch pack. a real weak point.
extra wide band for more holding power in 2nd and 4th.
corvette servo. same as above.
new accumulator pistons. they all wear at the pin bores.
and a new sunshell. newer GM or the beast.
All this is less than 200 bucks and makes a better unit and will handle 450hp all day.
good luck!
extra wide band for more holding power in 2nd and 4th.
corvette servo. same as above.
new accumulator pistons. they all wear at the pin bores.
and a new sunshell. newer GM or the beast.
All this is less than 200 bucks and makes a better unit and will handle 450hp all day.
good luck!
01-24-2012, 10:41 AM
#6
Thanks guys.
my current cooler is 24,000-28,000 GVW....I'll most likely be getting a new one if its contaminated to save headaches, probably in and around the same size.
Few questions for the above suggestions (which I appreciate everything)
As far as doing the clutches, do I need a press to get the seals back into the transmission afterwards? How deep into the transmission do I have to go to get to these? Should an amateur that has zero experience with trannies be attempting something like this lol? (I've torn the motor down to the block 3-4 times, and pulled the motor before, but never trans work)
Is there only 1 vette servo (1-2), or is there a vette servo for the 3-4 shift as well? I have the 1-2 one in my current trans that I will transferre over.
As far as Accumulator pistons, should I be going with the pinless? (how does doing this effect the transgo shift kit? am I going to have parts that I can't use out of the kit?...just want to know in advance so Im not sitting there pulling my hair out later)
Does doing the beast sunshell require machining work to be done? (Ive read mixed opinons)
For elitesnipez, the yard emptied the oil already, should I just pull the pan and fully drain anything left right before I am going to do the work on it/put it in? That way any remaining oil should protect the parts right? maybe put oil on those splines?
my current cooler is 24,000-28,000 GVW....I'll most likely be getting a new one if its contaminated to save headaches, probably in and around the same size.
Few questions for the above suggestions (which I appreciate everything)
As far as doing the clutches, do I need a press to get the seals back into the transmission afterwards? How deep into the transmission do I have to go to get to these? Should an amateur that has zero experience with trannies be attempting something like this lol? (I've torn the motor down to the block 3-4 times, and pulled the motor before, but never trans work)
Is there only 1 vette servo (1-2), or is there a vette servo for the 3-4 shift as well? I have the 1-2 one in my current trans that I will transferre over.
As far as Accumulator pistons, should I be going with the pinless? (how does doing this effect the transgo shift kit? am I going to have parts that I can't use out of the kit?...just want to know in advance so Im not sitting there pulling my hair out later)
Does doing the beast sunshell require machining work to be done? (Ive read mixed opinons)
For elitesnipez, the yard emptied the oil already, should I just pull the pan and fully drain anything left right before I am going to do the work on it/put it in? That way any remaining oil should protect the parts right? maybe put oil on those splines?
