MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Hi everyone, Ive been around these cars quite a but but have had no experience diagnosing or upgrading one with a 4l60E. I just bought a car that I know has problems but the trans problem is bothering me most.

1)When taking off in Overdrive it seems to be taking off in second gear, could be third but I think its second.

2)The trans will shift manually in a couple gears but not automatically at all. However it seems even when shifted manually it wont shift into overdrive.

3)I could be wrong but the speedometer seems to be incorrect and reading high.

The car is a 2000 WS6 Trans Am. At some point it had an M6 swapped in and has now been put back to an automatic. Ive read a few threads and thinking it maybe a speed sensor (VSS as ive seen it refered as) due to the speedometer issue. Ive read about the possibility of it being the MAF which id assume has something to do with the TPS sensor. Ive also wondered if maybe whoever did the manual to auto swap maybe didnt fix something in the computer(not sur eif you need to turn anything off going to a manual trans) or if the trans maybe is out of a different vehicle and has something needing changed like a speedo gear(if they have those like the TH400/TH350 lol).

If anyone could point me in the right direction to start figuring it out id appreciate it. Thanks!

EDIT:Just found a thread that sounds very similar to my problem to mine where it was suggested to check that the trans plug is fully seated(I know its plugged in but ill pull it out, clean it and reinstall it), check that the shift solenoids inside the pan are plugged into the harness(will put that on my list to check) and to be sure the shift solenoids arent bad(will also check)

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Cleaned the speed sensor, pulled the trans electrical plug out then cleaned it and greased it with some dielectric grease and plugged it back in and still having issues. Im thinking that it is starting in first(when shifted manually) but im so used to M6 Fbodies that it feels like a slug lol.

I smogged it today(even though I knew it would fail) so that I could extend the registration until I fix it. He gave me a list of codes that it had and most all were transmission related. Im not sure if that is a good thing or bad thing. If the computer is tuned for a manual I dont know if it would list auto codes, and if it is tuned for an auto then more than likely I have alot of electrial issues.

Any other thoughts?

mrvedit

That looks like one of my posts for a similar problem thread. You simply need to either drop the pan and check the solenoids or go to a trans shop that can test them without dropping the pan. The trans shop will use a high-end scanner (or something like HP Tuners) that can signal the computer to activate any desired gear; each gear is a different combination of the two shift solenoids. This is the better test, because even if you drop the pan, you might miss an invisible electrical problem.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Gotcha, and thanks for the reply. I was considering dropping the pan this weekend but ran out of time. Im taking it by my tuners shop on tuesday and he is going to check weather the computer had the correct operating system for the automatic trans. Do you think it would still be giving me codes for an automatic if the computer was tuned for a manual trans?

mrvedit

Sorry, I have no idea about the OS's for different types of trans.

Your tuner should be able to test the solenoids with his scanning tool.
In a quiet garage, plug in the scanner, turn ignition on (engine off!) and select different gears with the scanner. You should be able to hear the clicking from the solenoids.

You are on the right path to solving this. Good luck.

bigmac108

It sounds like the computer is not tuned for an automatic. I have accidentally put a tune on my car saying it was a M6. It was starting out in 3rd gear! See the computer doesnt control a manual. The only thing controled in a 6 speed is the skip shift. An automatic is completely controled by the computer. The limp mode for a 4l60 is 3rd gear. Most transmission shops have scanners and will go drive it for free. Yeah i think you need to start by making sure the trans is getting power from the computer, this would at least be a start. Also a simple check would be to make sure that the green wiring harness is completly pluged it. It is right above the pan on the driver side.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I had it checked out and it did have the automatic operating system installed. We reflashed it just in case but didnt fix the issue. I checked more deeply but the only thing I found wrong was the engine to frame ground wasnt connected, I installed it but obviously didnt fix it. I checked all the wiring going down to the trans and nothing is burnt up or smashed.

Drivers side? My plug goes in above the pan on the passenger side. I did find what looked like a vaccum line hanging on the torque arm that wasnt connected to anything but looked on tech and from what I can tell the 4l60e doesnt use vaccum for anything.

Im starting to thing the problem maybe internal. This weekend im planning on dropping the pan and seeing what I see in there.

CoreyZ/28

iTrader: (2)

That hose is just a vent tube.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Thats what I figured. Does it usually have a "T" installed on it?

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

You may try having your tuner flash in a complete stock A4 tune from the same year car just to make sure your other tune didn't have something wacked in it. Just as a test for the shifting issue. What codes did it show or did he scan it before reflashing the tune in?

CoreyZ/28

iTrader: (2)

The vent tube had a T on it when I pulled my trans from a truck but not sure about factory f bodies.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

I forget the codes exactly. Shift solenoid A malfunction, Shift solenoid B malfunction, TCC malfunction. Ill need to write them all down.

He did reflash it but had no change in the transmission.

Thats weird. Im starting to think the trans could have come from a truck. Are you sure the plug was on the drivers side? I have the right tailhousing but my speed has a 5 mph difference between what my diablosport shows and what my dash shows.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Well I got it fixed today.

I ended up picking up a complete drivetrain and lots of extra parts for a smokin deal. The rear main was leaking anyway so while I had the trans out I swapped in this other trans and TC to see if it would fix my problem. Although I was pretty sure it would I had the exact same issue after the swap was done.

I pulled out a schematic and started tracing the wires today after pulling the intake off. After checking continuity in the wires I found that the engine control fuse was blown(which is weird because the first thing I checked were the fuses) and had a bad spot where the wire covering was worn off and was grounding out. I fixed that spot and replaced the fuse.

Put about 20 miles on it so far, SES light hasnt come on and its shifting pretty well.

mrvedit

Glad you got it working and thanks for the update.
Since I think you would have more severe symptoms with a blown engine control fuse, I'm guessing that the fuse wasn't blown until you "started tracing the wires" and found the bad spot.
Enjoy the car. And enjoy Southern Cal; we finally have snow in Michigan now.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Actually the wire wasnt broken just worn thorugh the cover. According to the schematic that wire runs from the trans plug up to the evap solenoid on the left of the intake, runs back to the evap purge solenoid near the fuel tank and the fuse panel. Really doesnt have much to do with engine control other than evap but seems to supply power to the trans. I was pretty sure thats where my issue was when I looked at the schematic and saw where it went as I had evap codes as well.

The car is definately more enjoyable to drive with overdrive haha. At least I have the weather to enjoy, gotta have one nice thing about this state.