TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

So i've got a TSP 233/239 .595/.603 cam on a 111LSA that's going to be installed EVENTUALLY haha it's gonna be a while.

Currently I am running a YankSS4000 converter and I hate it because I DD the car and I don't race/track it very much and I feel it's WAY too loose with my 3.23 gears, so I am looking at downgrading to a 3200 converter(a PTC to be exact...free trade for me with free install...thanks james) One it will be tighter and easier to live with around town and on hills, and two I was told that this cam should start making really good power right around 3k so a 4k converter seems like overkill anyways...

My questions here are how do you guys think this combo will run? Anyone else running it or similar? Any downsides or negatives that you can see? Is the PTC going to flash me to right where I need to be? Will it be loose enough to keep the car from surging at stop lights? Etc

TSP 233/239 .595/.603 111
PTC 3200 Converter
3.23 Gears
25% Underdrive Pulley
LVL 5 4l60e W/Transgo HD2 Shift Kit

Other mods are Lid, LS6 intake(it's an 02 z28), P&P Maf, 1 3/4 LT's, 3" True Duals,

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

The car will be slower with the 3200 converter

You wont have any problems with surge anytime the converter is unlocked.

justin hover

I would like to see others opinions on what you posted in another thread. This is exactly what I worry about when making my decision on what stall I want. I'm worried about the low and mid-range pull as you do not like. I like my throttle response/accell the way it is now. I touch the gas and I'm gone. So down low it's fun you could say. But I could see a higher stall taking that away, and seeing that It's mostly a around town/city dd, wot driving is a rarity. On the other hand I love the sound of a stall throwing you right into the power band, but it seems you would have to get on the gas and flash it more than you want to. (like you said when you pass somebody). If you were to do a google/yahoo search on what stall is right for you, I swear you see nothing but 28-3200 for a bolt-on dd. On this site...man everyone say's 3600 or better or if they have a 3200 they wish they would've gone higher..just confusing...surprised no others feel the way you do, I just don't wanna have the problem your faced with...

BY twitchz28:
I think I am going to be the sole person on here that doesn't really care for my stall.

I am running a Yank SS4000 with a built trans and bolt ons/exhaust. I have been running it untuned for a little bit(waiting for my cam install to pay for dyno tune) and here is my take.

If you are trying to go fast in a straight line...Stalled Auto all the way. I've beaten cars on the street that I really really shouldn't be beating ever since I've been running this stall.

HOWEVER...if you drive the car alot just around town or on twisty roads, or whatever...it's sort of a headache...I mean sure it makes the car alot faster at WOT...but you lose so much low and mid range pull because the converter is unlocked most of the time...so now when you pass someone in a 30mph zone you are forced to give it enough throttle to flash so you can get around them and you look like a pretentious douchebag flooring it everywhere...

I don't like the way it feels pulling away from stoplights, or how it likes to roll backwards a little bit on hills, or the fact that you're constantly turning more RPM than you would with a stock converter, or the fact that the thing will randomly come unlocked when you're doing 80 on the freeway with the cruise on and now you're doing 3200RPM instead of 2200-2400 so your mileage goes south(this may be changed with a tune), and I just in general don't like that when I drive around town it sounds like i'm driving a car with a slightly slipping transmission...and it somewhat feels like it too.

I know a lot of my discomfort with this stall is somewhat the fault of the trans I was running. It wasn't built quite so well the first time it was built so it felt extremely loose...but even now with my trans that is built properly...it's just not that fun unless you're racing

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

honest justin you're right to be worried. I don't know hardly anyone on the forum that runs lower than a 3600 either, but I also don't know a lot of them that are modding just for a more fun DD. Most of they are serious or at least semi-serious racers on one level or another. Street or track it makes no difference they just want the fastest car possible for their money and a 3200 is not that. Yes a 4000 is going to make the car faster...it also makes daily driving the car a total pain in my ***...so I'm losing it. The only reason for posting this thread is to validate that it would properly mask the cam when idling/driving slow, and to make sure I would still be getting at least close to my powerband.

Justin here is the cut and dry way of putting this. This is simply coming from myself with the experience of my 4000 and riding in a few buddy's cars with different size converters.

If you care even slightly about being the fastest you can be for your money. get a 4000

If you want to be fast and retain some of your low end torque access get a 3600

If you want the car to feel mostly like stock but hit a little harder then normal get a 2800-3200. Granted I have not rode in or driven any car with a 3200, but this would seem to be the logical case.

I have raced cars that are almost exactly mod for mod with me except he had a 3600 and I had a 4000...they were both Yank even...and the difference from 20-120 wasn't more than a door to a car length. It's not THAT big of a difference. The reason people regret not going bigger is because A) They drive like idiots flooring it everywhere so they don't care about low end torque, or B) All they care about is how the car feels at WOT and they want to be a little faster and don't mind losing some tq access to do so.



Me? I'm trading down and I will update when it's all said and done. Also along with going from 4000 to 3200, I am going from Yank to PTC so I am told PTC is tighter than Yank even if you compared 3200 to 3200 or 4000 to 4000, so I should notice a HUGE difference.

justin hover

I had always told myself a 3400...kinda the happy medium

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a plan man. There isn't a noticeable difference between 3200 and 3400 and 3600 unless you drove them back to back.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

(spec by Dave for my car) Yank SS 4000 /TSP Leonoti 231/237-295/298-112/4.11
very tight converter
Johnny

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

Very tight converter my ***!

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

Yep, spec for my car. very little pressure to move, shift @ 6500 and never drop RPM below 6000
Johnny

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

I've been driving an ss3600 for ~2 months, it drives pretty good, but I could go bigger without a problem. And I don't floor it everywhere either, I don't usually even get near flash point unless I'm merging onto the freeway.

Philip Pugeau

I run an FTI3500, very happy with it. Tight converter, more street friendly version. Nice modulation of power without getting to 3500 rpm, though the 4.10 is helping with that. Didn't lose any fuel mileage with the stall, just gained more fun. Not a racer by any means, but I do beat on my car everyday. A few WOT runs from 10-50 or 60 usually. Just wanted to make my DD more fun around town. Highest posted speed limit is 55 where I drive 90% of the time. Using baby LS6 cam, will upgrade to 230/236 115+2 later this year, to match the 383 for DD use.

___________________________________________
2001 Firebird Formula A4
383ci 6-bolt 11:1 LS6 heads+cam, forged internals | Strange S60 4.10 | BMR K-member | BMR control arms + Panhard + adj Torque arm | PST 3.5' driveshaft + 1350 yoke | FTI3500 stall | built 4L60E | K&N intake | hollowed cats, stock exhaust | 315/35R17 NT555R
345 rwhp / 391 rwtq
Built by Next Level Performance, Orlando, FL
4L60E built by Transmissions Plus, Kissimmee, FL

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

Wait by tight converter I was referring to looseness of my 4k requiring alot more rpm to move the vehicle in city driving, not how much it drops rpm wise after shifts....have a been mis-interpreting the "tightness" of converters this whole time?

nastyiroc

iTrader: (9)

how much was it?

Philip Pugeau

$750 after tax. Picked up at FTI, it's close to home. But, Greg can custom build any application you need. Just describe the car and use. He will also allow a free send-back for when you want to go BIG.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I had a TCI 3000 and daily drove with it for 3 years and really liked it. I moved up to a Yank 3600 and didn't notice much difference in day to day driving. It's as big as would want to go, though. I don't agree with the "bigger is always better" approach.

I think you'll be happy with your 3200. I'm contemplating converting my SOM car to automatic, and if I do, I'll go with a 3200.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

ss4000 to loose for ya? My ss3600 with stock 3.23 and stock cam is cake to drive dude. Cant imagine the ss4000 being very different but hey, maybe it is. If I ever decided to go lower than the ss3600 I have now I would punch my own teeth out. When I need a trans ill be doing a pt4000 next time around.
Maybe you should do 3600? Please no lower than 3200 lol

Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

this satement is false. if the stall of the convertor is not high enough for a big cam,you will surge.ask me how i know?(thanks REVMAX for my free restall)

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

Because i'm not buying the 3200. i'm getting a free trade. with labor covered