LS1-4L80E stuck in 2nd gear - no meaningful codes
06-14-2012, 03:59 PM
#1
LS1-4L80E stuck in 2nd gear - no meaningful codes I have a 5.7L LS1 4L80E swap and the transmission is stuck in 2nd gear - I think it's in limp mode. It starts in 2nd, and it will not shift out of 2nd. The engine seems to start and run okay. I thought it would have a little more power, but it might just be my truck torque converter, 2.88 rear end, and a shrouded air filter... or maybe not? Anyway...
The only two codes I am getting is P0443 and P0650. P0443 is related to the EVAP solenoid, and P0650 is a malfunction indicator lamp malfunction. The EVAP hardware is long gone, and the MIL seems to be working fine - it comes on when the car is turned on, and turns off about 10 seconds after the car is turned off.
The fluid level in the trans is reading correctly on the stick, and it feels right, too - no unusual slipping or flash or anything like that.
I frequently disconnect the battery, sometimes for a months at a time.
The PCM and harness are originally from a 2005 Sierra 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E.
I don't even know where to start - any suggestions?
The only two codes I am getting is P0443 and P0650. P0443 is related to the EVAP solenoid, and P0650 is a malfunction indicator lamp malfunction. The EVAP hardware is long gone, and the MIL seems to be working fine - it comes on when the car is turned on, and turns off about 10 seconds after the car is turned off.
The fluid level in the trans is reading correctly on the stick, and it feels right, too - no unusual slipping or flash or anything like that.
I frequently disconnect the battery, sometimes for a months at a time.
The PCM and harness are originally from a 2005 Sierra 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E.
I don't even know where to start - any suggestions?
06-15-2012, 01:40 PM
#2
According to ATSG, it could be qdm or solenoid B, system voltage too high or too low, output speed.
I would think the "output speed they are talking about would be related to the rear vss sensor". Your speed sensor could have built up metallic shavings because it is magnetized in order to read the reluctor wheel. Maybe if there was too much buildup you would e getting inaccurate readings which would throw off the computer.
Maybe your solenoid b went bad/is clogged or the pin b (pink/red wire on the outside of transmission) broke or got chafed and is grounding out. Or maybe when you repinned the 20 ppin transmission connector the pins weren't seated all the way and they somehow managed to back out. Keep in mind this might not be the same color in your case. I do believe 4l60e's had 13 and 15 pin 20 way connectors depending on year appliication.
THe voltage too high or low could be due to the above speed sensor buildupor the broken wire. Just a thought.
I would think the "output speed they are talking about would be related to the rear vss sensor". Your speed sensor could have built up metallic shavings because it is magnetized in order to read the reluctor wheel. Maybe if there was too much buildup you would e getting inaccurate readings which would throw off the computer.
Maybe your solenoid b went bad/is clogged or the pin b (pink/red wire on the outside of transmission) broke or got chafed and is grounding out. Or maybe when you repinned the 20 ppin transmission connector the pins weren't seated all the way and they somehow managed to back out. Keep in mind this might not be the same color in your case. I do believe 4l60e's had 13 and 15 pin 20 way connectors depending on year appliication.
THe voltage too high or low could be due to the above speed sensor buildupor the broken wire. Just a thought.
06-15-2012, 01:46 PM
#3
According to ATSG, it could be qdm or solenoid B, system voltage too high or too low, output speed.
I would think the "output speed they are talking about would be related to the rear vss sensor". Your speed sensor could have built up metallic shavings because it is magnetized in order to read the reluctor wheel. Maybe if there was too much buildup you would e getting inaccurate readings which would throw off the computer.
Maybe your solenoid b went bad/is clogged or the pin b (pink/red wire on the outside of transmission) broke or got chafed and is grounding out. Or maybe when you repinned the 20 ppin transmission connector the pins weren't seated all the way and they somehow managed to back out. Keep in mind this might not be the same color in your case. I do believe 4l60e's had 13 and 15 pin 20 way connectors depending on year appliication.
THe voltage too high or low could be due to the above speed sensor buildupor the broken wire. Just a thought.
I would think the "output speed they are talking about would be related to the rear vss sensor". Your speed sensor could have built up metallic shavings because it is magnetized in order to read the reluctor wheel. Maybe if there was too much buildup you would e getting inaccurate readings which would throw off the computer.
Maybe your solenoid b went bad/is clogged or the pin b (pink/red wire on the outside of transmission) broke or got chafed and is grounding out. Or maybe when you repinned the 20 ppin transmission connector the pins weren't seated all the way and they somehow managed to back out. Keep in mind this might not be the same color in your case. I do believe 4l60e's had 13 and 15 pin 20 way connectors depending on year appliication.
THe voltage too high or low could be due to the above speed sensor buildupor the broken wire. Just a thought.
06-16-2012, 09:34 PM
#4
What is ATSG?
Also, wouldn't there be diagnostic codes for those problems - or are these problems that show no diagnostic code?
Also - why the rear VSS? Is that the one that is faulty with no codes, or is that the one that accumulates metal shavings?
Also, wouldn't there be diagnostic codes for those problems - or are these problems that show no diagnostic code?
Also - why the rear VSS? Is that the one that is faulty with no codes, or is that the one that accumulates metal shavings?
06-17-2012, 08:01 PM
#7
Yea, it appears to be in limp mode. I should be able to get the car on the rack this week so I'll be able to pull the plug and check for power. I already checked the trans fuse and I have power there.
Another question - answer only if you know for sure: The NSS/PNP switch assembly has two connectors - 1) one for the NSS and reverse lights, and 2) one that connects back to the transmission to let the trans know what gear the car is in. I know that the NSS and reverse lights connector is properly plugged in because the NSS and reverse lights are both functioning properly - but how about the second connector that goes back to the PCM - if that is unplugged, will it go into limp mode with no codes, or will that create a code?
Last question - if I take this to a tuner, will they be able to check each sensor and connection with their tuning software? Ex: read front VSS, read rear VSS, test 1-2 solenoid, find out what gear the gear selector is in, etc.
Another question - answer only if you know for sure: The NSS/PNP switch assembly has two connectors - 1) one for the NSS and reverse lights, and 2) one that connects back to the transmission to let the trans know what gear the car is in. I know that the NSS and reverse lights connector is properly plugged in because the NSS and reverse lights are both functioning properly - but how about the second connector that goes back to the PCM - if that is unplugged, will it go into limp mode with no codes, or will that create a code?
Last question - if I take this to a tuner, will they be able to check each sensor and connection with their tuning software? Ex: read front VSS, read rear VSS, test 1-2 solenoid, find out what gear the gear selector is in, etc.
Trending Topics
06-18-2012, 03:57 PM
#8
I say the vss because I would assume when they say output speed they are talking oabout the last speed sensr in line (VSS). The front is the ISS (Input speed sensor) This is the one you would have had to added for the swap.
ALso don't camaro guys have a really tight area by the vss? I heard they have to pound n the floorboard t get proper clearance.
Both speed sensors are magnetic. WHen ordering a vss or iss you get the same thing. VSS and ISS are the same part number. WHat happens is if the speed sensor has a crap oad of shavings it will magnetize the shavings and not have much more power toread the teeth on the reluctor wheel that sits on the rear planet or the teeth that are on the forward drum.
Yes you are right. I was going off fan old pinout schematic, my bad. So yes pin e has power to solenoid a (pin A) light green, solenoid B (pin B)yellow, and tcc solenoid (pin S) black. Did you just do the swap and now having the issues or unplug the connector and reconnect it? If you didn't, I wouldn't think the pin would be bent but if you never put electrical conductor on the connections you might have corrosion?
06-18-2012, 06:09 PM
#9
Hmm.
I don't really want to change the ISS and VSS without some sort of reason - maybe a bad speed reading or a code or something like that? Unfortunately, my speedo is not hooked up.
What would cause a lot of shavings? I took the trans out of an express van with about 30k miles. The only bad thing about the trans is that the prior owner let it run for a while with the trans cooler broken off from the accident. I don't know for how long, but the trans was starved for lube for at least a little while.
This is in a Jaguar, not a Camaro, but it's still tight around the rear VSS. The harness was originally from a truck with a 4L80E, so all the wiring was done for me already. I did rebuild the round 20-pin connector with a new connector body, seal, pins, etc - I am pretty darn sure all that stuff went back together properly. I will check the wire colors against a wiring diagram next time I'm under the car.
This is the first time I've tried plugging in the harness to the transmission - I don't think it's ever really went through the gears on this harness. I guess corrosion is possible, but not likely. The trans was always stored indoors, and the pins on the connector are brand-spankin new.
I don't really want to change the ISS and VSS without some sort of reason - maybe a bad speed reading or a code or something like that? Unfortunately, my speedo is not hooked up.
What would cause a lot of shavings? I took the trans out of an express van with about 30k miles. The only bad thing about the trans is that the prior owner let it run for a while with the trans cooler broken off from the accident. I don't know for how long, but the trans was starved for lube for at least a little while.
This is in a Jaguar, not a Camaro, but it's still tight around the rear VSS. The harness was originally from a truck with a 4L80E, so all the wiring was done for me already. I did rebuild the round 20-pin connector with a new connector body, seal, pins, etc - I am pretty darn sure all that stuff went back together properly. I will check the wire colors against a wiring diagram next time I'm under the car.
This is the first time I've tried plugging in the harness to the transmission - I don't think it's ever really went through the gears on this harness. I guess corrosion is possible, but not likely. The trans was always stored indoors, and the pins on the connector are brand-spankin new.
