Need help ! keep killing trannys
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Need help ! keep killing trannys
Hi i got a 98 trans am with h/c/i putting around 400 rwhp down.
I got my trans rebuilt and still my trans keeps going out within 1000 miles and the last one died within 100 miles.
The shop i got the trans rebuilt at tells me that my tune is whats causing it to mess up and break internal parts. The forward input sprang is what broke the past 2 times and it was a Borg Warner duel cage. I originally took the car to them because the 3-4 gear went out . Just wondering if the tune could really be causing this or its just the builder. Any info is appreciated
I got my trans rebuilt and still my trans keeps going out within 1000 miles and the last one died within 100 miles.
The shop i got the trans rebuilt at tells me that my tune is whats causing it to mess up and break internal parts. The forward input sprang is what broke the past 2 times and it was a Borg Warner duel cage. I originally took the car to them because the 3-4 gear went out . Just wondering if the tune could really be causing this or its just the builder. Any info is appreciated
#2
Do you do WOT 4-3 downshifts often?
I can't think of anything offhand in a tune that would cause forward sprag failure. Clutch failure yes, but not sprag failure.
A WOT 4-3 downshift is your most likely event to kill a forward sprag, especially on a combo that turns higher RPMs.
Depending on how it was built a manual 4-3 downshift may make it worse.
Also when they repaired it, did they re-use the races or replace the whole assembly?
I can't think of anything offhand in a tune that would cause forward sprag failure. Clutch failure yes, but not sprag failure.
A WOT 4-3 downshift is your most likely event to kill a forward sprag, especially on a combo that turns higher RPMs.
Depending on how it was built a manual 4-3 downshift may make it worse.
Also when they repaired it, did they re-use the races or replace the whole assembly?
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No Jake i haven't even got to go WOT yet because i was still in the break-in period.
I'm not sure if they replaced the whole assembly ill have to ask them.
The first time before it broke my 2-3 shift would sometimes not happen properly . 2nd would disengage and 3rd would take a second then bang into gear.
My car never did this before i took it to them so its hard to believe my tune just went to crap out of no where .
I'm not sure if they replaced the whole assembly ill have to ask them.
The first time before it broke my 2-3 shift would sometimes not happen properly . 2nd would disengage and 3rd would take a second then bang into gear.
My car never did this before i took it to them so its hard to believe my tune just went to crap out of no where .
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Ditch the 4L60E & go 4L80E & never look back Plus lower your ETs from not dropping so many RPM from 1st to 2nd Just my 2cents & its whats goin in my build They can be had cheap on craigslist Then get it rebuilt with Upgrades or do it yourself IF capable With all the upgrades & not going to billet shafts the 80E is good for around 1000hp Be the last one you build Unless you just wear it out LoL wont be from breakin it!!!!
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Ditch the 4L60E & go 4L80E & never look back Plus lower your ETs from not dropping so many RPM from 1st to 2nd Just my 2cents & its whats goin in my build They can be had cheap on craigslist Then get it rebuilt with Upgrades or do it yourself IF capable With all the upgrades & not going to billet shafts the 80E is good for around 1000hp Be the last one you build Unless you just wear it out LoL wont be from breakin it!!!!
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thnx for the advice guys , yea ive been looking into the 80, but i still got figure out whats going on with the current transmission . Dont wanna put a 80 in and just trash it within a 100 miles like my 60 has been doing .
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Update: found out that they did replace the input sprag whole assembly last time .
I'm going to call to day to see what the status on my car is . Their not the fastest moving shop. :/
I'm going to call to day to see what the status on my car is . Their not the fastest moving shop. :/
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Talked to the shop and they said my Trans pump gear exploded . Any ideas what would cause that? Note:When it broke on me I was barley going 10 mph.
#11
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRG-700-PKH/
(It is available from many sources, including the shop's distributors.)
You should also make sure they are rebuilding with a hardened sun shell, at the minimum the new GM one, or "The Beast" or the "Smart Shell" from Sonnax.
If they are replacing all the frictions, ask that they use a 4L65E rebuild kit as that will have a 7-friction 3/4 clutch. Better yet, use 5-pinion planetaries which can be bought for $80 each on Amazon.
Finally, you might consider this Sonnax part which will reduce stress on the forward sprag if you race in D3:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77754-41.pdf
The problem is that your 400 rwhp is almost 50% more than a stock '98 LS1. The trans shop is just rebuilding to '98 specs. They really need to rebuild this to 2006 4L65E specs and parts.
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The pump has two rings which are known to break and cause complete failure, damage to the pump and debris throughout the trans. Transgo sells a $10 kit with hardened rings and a high RPM pump spring. Make sure your builder installs it as there is no way to know if their pump rebuild kit will have hardened rings:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRG-700-PKH/
(It is available from many sources, including the shop's distributors.)
You should also make sure they are rebuilding with a hardened sun shell, at the minimum the new GM one, or "The Beast" or the "Smart Shell" from Sonnax.
If they are replacing all the frictions, ask that they use a 4L65E rebuild kit as that will have a 7-friction 3/4 clutch. Better yet, use 5-pinion planetaries which can be bought for $80 each on Amazon.
Finally, you might consider this Sonnax part which will reduce stress on the forward sprag if you race in D3:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77754-41.pdf
The problem is that your 400 rwhp is almost 50% more than a stock '98 LS1. The trans shop is just rebuilding to '98 specs. They really need to rebuild this to 2006 4L65E specs and parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRG-700-PKH/
(It is available from many sources, including the shop's distributors.)
You should also make sure they are rebuilding with a hardened sun shell, at the minimum the new GM one, or "The Beast" or the "Smart Shell" from Sonnax.
If they are replacing all the frictions, ask that they use a 4L65E rebuild kit as that will have a 7-friction 3/4 clutch. Better yet, use 5-pinion planetaries which can be bought for $80 each on Amazon.
Finally, you might consider this Sonnax part which will reduce stress on the forward sprag if you race in D3:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/77754-41.pdf
The problem is that your 400 rwhp is almost 50% more than a stock '98 LS1. The trans shop is just rebuilding to '98 specs. They really need to rebuild this to 2006 4L65E specs and parts.
#14
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No the trans was not a stock rebuild . its was a local shops stage 3 trans which included the beast sun shell , and upgraded clutches and steels and trans go hd- 2 shift kit borg warner duel cage input sprag. Thats why i dont understand why I keep having problems .The builder says my tune is what is causing all the problems . Trying to figure out that could be true or if its just him not rebuilding it properly .
Is there any way you can get access to HP Tuners and post your tune here? Plenty of us can analyze that pretty well. If you find someone with HP Tuners, remind them it costs NOTHING (no credits) to read a tune. (It only cost credits to write a new tune to the PCM.)