rebuilding a 4L60e for a hi hp 5.3L, what upgrades are a must?
10-25-2012, 08:38 AM
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rebuilding a 4L60e for a hi hp 5.3L, what upgrades are a must? As the title says, what parts are a must? I was going to get a Pro-Built rebuild kit and was thinking of some input and output shafts from CK Performance. The trans is out of a 4x4, that I got as a core, so the tailhousing and shaft would have to be swapped out. What's the main thing that goes, when it's behind a lot of hp/trq?
10-25-2012, 08:50 PM
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10-26-2012, 11:47 PM
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I have only seen a few 60e hold up to that power and they where roslers and rpm 4000 dollar trannys... Patc guys in la I think sell all the parts to build bullet proof I just never had cash or ***** to dump into 60e to try,.. Call patc they prob steer u in right direction... I know for fact u will need there 3rd gear renforced drum to start with...
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10-26-2012, 11:56 PM
#8
wow thats alot of power
look into an 80E, but if your die hard 60e guy you'll have $3000 in parts
smarttech 3-4 drum
billet input
billet output
5 pinion oem planetaris
beats shell
wider bushing in rear sun gear
sonnax 2nd gear servo
new reverse input drum
carbonite 2-4 band from alto
billet pump rotor
dual cage sprag
this is just a small list of hard parts that adds up big time, not including what you will need to modify pressures and shift qualities
look into an 80E, but if your die hard 60e guy you'll have $3000 in parts
smarttech 3-4 drum
billet input
billet output
5 pinion oem planetaris
beats shell
wider bushing in rear sun gear
sonnax 2nd gear servo
new reverse input drum
carbonite 2-4 band from alto
billet pump rotor
dual cage sprag
this is just a small list of hard parts that adds up big time, not including what you will need to modify pressures and shift qualities
10-27-2012, 08:22 AM
#9
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Thats a good list from silverz28camaro. Some parts are cheap, but the smarttech 3-4 drum is $500, the billet shafts are $300+ each. That 3-4 drum will hold one additional friction and steel, e.g. 8 full-thickness ones or 9 slightly thinner ones.
From my 700+ posts about 4L60Es you know I am a fan and comfortable building high HP units, but when I exceed 650 engine HP, I plan to switch to a 4L80e.
In my still-somewhat-novice opinion, it will be cheaper and certainly more reliable to run a 4L80E with that power level. Even the 4L80E needs to be built properly for that.
From my 700+ posts about 4L60Es you know I am a fan and comfortable building high HP units, but when I exceed 650 engine HP, I plan to switch to a 4L80e.
In my still-somewhat-novice opinion, it will be cheaper and certainly more reliable to run a 4L80E with that power level. Even the 4L80E needs to be built properly for that.
10-27-2012, 04:39 PM
#12
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IIRC switching from a 4L60E to a 4L80E might not even require shortening the drive shaft. Also IIRC from looking at the G-Frorce crossmember site, the 4L80E crossmember is 1" further back. I think the 4L80E is fatter though, requires different trans cooler lines, a different converter and a slight change go the connector wiring.
Lots of people here have made the switch from 4L60E to 4L80E. For specific advice, tell us what kind of car you have.
Lots of people here have made the switch from 4L60E to 4L80E. For specific advice, tell us what kind of car you have.
10-28-2012, 12:54 AM
#13
This isn't me trying to sound like a dick, but if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't be trying to build your own 60e for that power level. I would never tell you a 60e can hold at that power level, because, frankly, it will not.
I say you snag a 4L80E core, get a quality rebuild kit, do some research and find out what kind of hydraulic modifications would be the best to make while you have the trans apart, and stick in a billet input shaft and forward hub. That should hold your power pretty solidly. The billet input shaft and forward hub may not be 100% necessary depending on how high into that 800 hp range you plan to go, since the turbos are a more forgiving power adder
I say you snag a 4L80E core, get a quality rebuild kit, do some research and find out what kind of hydraulic modifications would be the best to make while you have the trans apart, and stick in a billet input shaft and forward hub. That should hold your power pretty solidly. The billet input shaft and forward hub may not be 100% necessary depending on how high into that 800 hp range you plan to go, since the turbos are a more forgiving power adder
10-29-2012, 06:12 AM
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IIRC switching from a 4L60E to a 4L80E might not even require shortening the drive shaft. Also IIRC from looking at the G-Frorce crossmember site, the 4L80E crossmember is 1" further back. I think the 4L80E is fatter though, requires different trans cooler lines, a different converter and a slight change go the connector wiring.
Lots of people here have made the switch from 4L60E to 4L80E. For specific advice, tell us what kind of car you have.
Lots of people here have made the switch from 4L60E to 4L80E. For specific advice, tell us what kind of car you have.
10-29-2012, 08:58 AM
#15
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I have the G-Force 4l60e crossmember which did NOT require redrilling holes in the frame. I think they also make a 4l80e which I "suspect" has 1" more offset to the rear to hold that trans.
10-29-2012, 09:47 AM
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10-29-2012, 01:28 PM
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I agree, with over 750 - 800FWHP and it being a 4WD, I would go with a 4L80E. It will take much more torque and horsepower. 800 - 900RWHP that you are putting out, is between a 1,000 - 1,100FWHP.
11-03-2012, 04:55 PM
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Well I did a used tranny inquiry for a 4l80e earlier in the week to get prices. Had probably 13 salvage yards calling me. The best price I got was for a 2000 4l80e with 90k, $650 shipped from Florida to Milwaukee. Think I'll do a 4L80E.
