XFiveLiter

I am using a 19k b&m and during 90 degree days I sometimes see 200 on the gauge. I am not comfortable w/that.

Should I get the larger 24k cooler, use a deep pan, or both? Maybe I'll just put the stock converter back in. j/k

Casper9T9

iTrader: (1)

With that YPT I would run a 24K and a deep pan.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Deep pan does not increase cooling significantly
although it may be better for "heat spike" types
of use (more fluid mass to share heat dump).
Even the finned ones only double the pan bottom
area at best. The cooler is what does the real
work if you have one, and you should, with any
kind of performance converter.

more carbon

deep pan is a good mod,just put b&m deep pan on my car and it took way more oil which is a good thing, and has a drain plug which is also good!!

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

Mark - the B&M holds 3 X-TRA quarts of fluid, after i put mine in i noticed that it takes a LOT more time too heat up the fluid, which is good.If i was gonna change coolers,i would get one with a built in fan,(summit). my trans temp runs anywhere from 150 on a cool night like tonight, to around 175 -180 on a hot day cruising . Ater a blast it only goes up 10-15 degrees, but with the engine running it comes back down in about a minute at idle.I would go for the cooler with the electric fan if your worried!

XFiveLiter

Thanks for the replies. So, if I get the deep pan, there is no cooling benifit? The extra capacity will take longer to heat up, but doesn't dissipate heat, and eventually I would be running hot again. Also, it would take longer to cool down. Am I understanding this right?

samz28

basically, yes, you need the bigi **** cooler with fan from summit and a deep pan if you are gonna do hot summer drag hotlapping.

thats fo sho.

my 24K cooler netted me 225F trans fluid temps hotlapping.

what good does the cooler do when your not moving fast? Same theory as intercooler..

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

The deep pan has -some- cooling benefit - when you
are moving through the air. Sitting still, it's just stewing
in its own juice (nowhere particular for heat to go). The
trans cooler should get the cooling fans' airflow if you
have the settings proper (or, get a cooler w/ its own
fan, or cobble up your own 12V muffin fan & shroud).
The cooler has a lot more benefit.

I had the deepest TCI pan on my car but had to back
off and replace w/ a shallower one (TCI steel) when I
lowered it... kept banging the drain plug on speedbumps.

42NightZ28

i have both also. 19K B&M and a Derale pan, that pan has cooling veins in it so you might want to give it a look.

SteveC

Do both

SteveC

samz28

yeah the rules of street and strip change quite a bit. If your lacking a linelock you're putting a bit more stress on the fluid if you are just doing brake stand burnouts since you got the extra brake force of the rear's on top of the burnout.

I found that my trans-cooler only was fine for street heavy city traffic (30-40mph tops) on the way home, fans come on early enough to prevent it getting too toasty. But at the track its a whole nother story.

line lock + bigger pan + bigger summit racing fan'd cooler is the plan.

Small (not so) price to pay to save your tranny. My trans shifts great according to the logs its shifting early. As your trans starts to die you can probably see on shifts some slippage. The way i'm going to judge my trans death is by datalogging all the runs (1/4 mile) and watching the shift points.

now desired=6800 actual=6604(+/-1%). When i start to see it biting the dust i'm guessing i'll start to see 6800+ rpm shifts. I'm hoping this plan lets me be able to rebuild without destroying the converter and trans with metal bits n pieces..

Then again, it could just explode, but thank god used gm 4l60e's are a dime a dozen.

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

the pan will definately help, the cooler with the built on fan you can run any time you think ya might need too cool down fast. like after a run you could let it idle for a couple minutes, should bring the temps down real fast.the bigger pan is gonna take longer too heat up durring a run, so its not gonna get as hot as fast!!! on a side note- my new rear is in,PAINTED the same color as my car(thanks too my friend with a body shop) i had the speedo recalibrated and the shift points set.It actually feels pretty good now. Im still waiting for my 6 point, should be here any day now!are you getting your roll bar done yet?

XFiveLiter

I think I'm gonna order the cooler w/the fan, from Summit. They list two different sizes.

9" H x 13 1/2" L x 3 1/2" thick
6 1/2" x 10 1/2" L x 4" thick

Would either of these be a problem mounting in front of the condensor? Thanks everyone. It goes in on the 8th.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

With the fan attached, you can mount them up
in the nose space away from the rad and not be
stacking up heat dump in front of the radiator.
I know I saw someone did this.

samz28

why block the poor cooling system? Thats like putting a FTRA on an A4, its bad enough as it is, you wanna torture the ect/trans fluids even more..

I have to agree there's probably some better pressure points you can safely use

XFiveLiter

Yeah, you guys are right. With the fan I can mount it anywhere in the nose. I don't have bumper supports so I think I can find a big enough space. thanks

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I would try upgrading the 'cooler first.

I have that bigazz one with the big fittings, stuff has stayed super cool on the dyno.