garyalheit

Im new to the site and I could really use some advice. I actually decided to do the rebuild after reading through the forum for a couple of weeks.
to start off lost 3/4 after girlfriend was driving and and blew a tranny cooler line at 70 . She drove it till it stopped ....... 0 fluid or very close. 12 quarts later i was able to get it off the turnpike and home about 1 mile ... 1/2 good ,had to manual shift and feather the gas to get 3/4. Rebuild ( stock replacements , corvette servo ) everything looked fine and very clean, except 3/4 clutches were toast . All clutches were replaced . No problems coming apart or going together.
Put it back in this morning (fingers crossed) from a stop. reverse ,1 and 2 good . When shifted into 3rd or 4th while stopped it acts like its in neutral .
Pulled the pan checked all connections fine.... Did a little more research and found that pulling the main plug will determine whether its elec. or mech..
With the plug pulled , shifted it into third and it went into gear. So I plugged it back in and for tish n giggles ,took it for a little cruise . 1st fine, 2nd fine ,manually shifted into third at normal throttle went in like normal, same with fourth. Tho in 3/4 any more than normal throttle and it would just flare ,free rev. Cruised at 65 with no problems as long as i manual shifted and took off normally < but who does that .lol .
Brought it back home and pulled the pan and layed there for a couple n thought LS1.com .
I think maybe I should of upgraded 3/4 to a zpack or maxipack ? Im new to auto trans rebuilding and it was actually fun , until it didnt work right . I sure could use a little help , and I feel that I will get the best advice from you guys. Any will be appreciated

mrvedit

I PM'ed you my email and phone number. I'll try to help.
I think you have a major leak in the 3-4 apply circuit. Either a leaking 3rd accumulator check ball, a leaking teflon ring, or a bad 3-4 apply piston/seal in the input housing.

Since you are likely going to have to pull the trans, I will recommend a 7 or 8 friction 3-4 clutch, but even a stock 6-friction is not going to fail on day 1 with modest HP.

Personal gripe - why do they even sell rebuild kits with a 6-friction 3-4 clutch? The 4L65E 7-friction 3-4 clutch is much better and adds maybe $6 to the kit?

garyalheit

That is exactly the starting point , I'm going to pull it tomm. I'm going to change the 3/4 clutches to something a little more stout. Is there any brand that you have good luck with? I thank you for your input .I will also keep you in formed on the progress. I also have 2 friends that suddenly want a 4l60 built for street /strip cars . I may need some input there also ,if your up to it .
Thanks much
GaryA

mrvedit

Gary, I look forward to our conversation. Most builders are very happy with the Borg Warner (BW) Hi-Energy, generally with 8 frictions. I have posted the specs and part numbers several times here. I have also used Raybestos GPZ, which are less proven but might be a hair better. I'm not a builder; I'm an experimenter, so I try it out and a few months later try something else, long before anything has worn out. I'm currently running Blue frictions; I've been told to run a lot more clearance with those, minimum of .005 per friction. Even then I don't think they would last 25,000+ miles, but unless its a high mileage DD, that is a non-issue. In short, there is no "best" choice for everyone, it depends a bit on your driving needs and expectations.

Ted.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My trans is running a Zpack based on my builder's recommendation. Just an FYI.