jmmcamaro2002

Do I need to remove the L and R cats to remove a 4L60E from a stock 2002 Z28? The manual says I have to remove them, but it looks like if I can slide the transmission back enough, I can clear the cats. The reason I do not want to remove the cats is that it is all rusted and I know I will snap the bolts. This is my daily drive so I cannot have a lot of down time. In addition, if I snap the bolts that hold the cat to the exhaust manifold, I will most like need to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the broken bolts, which will create added time and expense. I already have to cut my Y-pipe because it is welded on. This is turning into more of a project than I bargain for. Any recommendation/experience would be appreciated.
John

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

I dont know with the oe stuff, but with lts and high flows I unbolted the headers from the heads...and it barely fit, actually slightly dented a primary in the process. You could give it a shot, but dont be surprised if you have to put it back in temporarily and pull the cats.

I would also recommed you pb blaster the dowels right when you start. You need about 3ft+ of extensions and a swivel head 13mm socket is well worth the cost. You can get a set of them from lowes for like $15 if you dont have already...shorter than a socket + a swivel...and you need the room. The 10 o clock bolt isthe worst, right onthe firewall. You can see the bolts pretty well if you rest your head right on the pinion yoke. GL.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

...and be damn sure you read up on seating the converter in the pump when you reinstall. You need 3 clunks and the pads should be (double check me on this) something like 1.75. Inches deep from the front of the bellhousing. People cost themselves a lot of time and money by missing that step. PM if you need anything, just did it 2 weeks ago.

jmmcamaro2002

I was hoping someone has experience dropping the transmission with a stock exhaust set up and could tell me if I have to absolutely remove the cats. Those rusty bolts scare me. Too many bad experience and from what I read odds are very high that I will break off those studs and replacing those studs will be a significant challenge. I will PB them for at least a week, but I am not optimistic.
John

gto65lvr

iTrader: (8)

Should come right out, just dont forget to unbolt the dipstick. I pulled mine down for a converter swap with no issues with stock suspension. I even left the lines on the trans end because I did not have the right line release tool. I unbolted them from the radiator and the lower alternator brace.

Lots of room, just a PITA on a couple of the upper bolts. Will test your patience for sure.

mrvedit

Yes, good to remind people of this.
However the distance from the converter pads to a straight edge over the bellhousing is 1.125 (1-1/8"). Anything under 1" indicates the converter is not fully seated and will ruin pump if assembled that way.