CROOKS

iTrader: (5)

When I put in a 3800 convertor can I drive it with the stock tune? Or will I kill the trans?
I have a trans cooler already on it.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

You'll be ok just don't drive it hard. You won't kill the trans but you'll need to get a tune to adjust a few things.

CROOKS

iTrader: (5)

So I can drive the 45min home and pull the pcm to send in for a tune. Only mods are headers and a lid so dont think I need a full dyno tune just a flash.

The kill the trans was more of a heating up the fluid question.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

It will be fine. I drove my 3200 home from a buddy's house with no issue when I installed it years and years ago. One thing you may encounter......If, directly after a light throttle shift, you give it gas and cause the engine to flare up on the converter, you may set a fault code, get an SES light, and send the trans into a "limp" mode for lack of a better term. Example = 1st gear light throttle 2500rpms at 10mph and 2500rpms the trans shifts to second but rpms will stay about 2500, if directly after that shift you apply throttle and rpms raise to say 3200 then the computer deducts that the shift never actually happened. It did not adequately see an rpm drop to confirm the shift took place. This would ALWAYS set mine into limp mode. Limp mode reduces transmission function to 2nd and 3rd gears only. No 1st, 4th, or converter lock-up. You likely will not run into this problem though. Key off and back on resets it.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

I've never had a problem running an FTI 3600 stall untuned. All you're really doing in the tune anyway is setting the shift/lockup points slightly different to make the driveability of the stall better. That's all. Nothing in the tune otherwise will need to be changed, like timing or fueling.

And I wouldn't really think a mail order tune would be that great for this mod. Fine-tuning a stall takes a lot of trial and error on the street to find the best shiftpoints for your driving style.

BSmiff

Interesting. I always thought the tune would be almost obligitory after changing my converter. Now youre saying this and its making me think twice.

So after what mods SHOULD I get a tune? I also have LTs and an ORY in my bedroom ready to go but Im assuming after those it would be almost necessary since Im going catless.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

You should get a tune (or re-tune) after any mod that changes the efficiency of the engine. A lid or catback probably not needed.

Headers, intake manifold, stall, gears, cam, heads you should be getting tuned for in order to get the most out of those mods and have the car drive nicely.

CROOKS

iTrader: (5)

I havent driven much since mine went in but it sucks in traffic without a tune. It keeps unlocking and down shifting alot. I hope a tune fixes this or its coming out.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Might be dealing with misfire issues. You should read up on that as lots of aftermarket converters cause a false miss, and during a misfire the computer......dun dun dun, unlocks the converter.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Youll be fine as long as you dont gas it! Try to get a retune for it asap though.

FoHawk

iTrader: (3)

When I had my 2000 Z28 I put a midwest 3500 stall in and never looked back, no tune or anything.

LT's
Lid
Stall
373's
SFC
LCA's

Consistent 12.3's all day.

Maybe I got lucky?