white2kbird

i wanna upgrade to the bigger cooler, my question is would this be a direct swap since i already have the 70264 installed? I'm hoping the bigger cooler is worth the coin to help drop some tranny temps here in south fl...anyone?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

One is barbed and the other is NPT, so you'll have to account for that. Yes the bigger cooler will help but in my experience the number one factor is airflow!

white2kbird

Mine is in front of the condenser, so dope style would be better?

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

No...the condenser will see more airflow than a dope style mount...if you want the ultimate use a small electric fan on the cooler....I just got my 70274 last week and it's a beast, bigger than my buddy's 1 ton cummins ram he tows with lol

DANOZ28

iTrader: (1)

have you thought about an aluminum trans pan? just my one cent. (they usually take 2 extra quarts of fluid)

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

I'm estimating at least a 1 quart increase with the addition of 70274 and new -6 an lines to stock/B&M cooler inline...but a deep pan is a good thing, just need different filter

Decadence75

iTrader: (17)

Also take the radiator out of the loop if you want to see cooler temps. I am running a Hayden 679 in front of the condenser along with a the TCI cast pan. The temp sensor I tapped into the pan runs on average about 140*. The hottest it has ever gotten was middle of summer and the converter unlocking on the interstate which was around 163*.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Nobody really has any proof that not running the factory cooler inline lowers temps, that really goes against common sense even though I have seen frank from performabuilt say the same thing. I'm gonna run both and if it runs hot ill swap it to just the external.

Decadence75

iTrader: (17)

How do you figure that? The radiator runs on an average of around 200* with the coolant cycling through it. Common sense would dictate that if you have a lower temp fluid entering an environment that is already at a higher temp then the fluid will have absorbed some of that heat before it exits. I routinely see folks stating that their trans temps run between 180-190*. That seems high to me and would corroborate my theory that the stock cooling system actually adds heat to the trans line in most cases. With bypassing the stock cooler and using a hayden 679 plate style cooler I am seeing average temps of 130-140* with sometimes as low as 120* when driving along the interstate for prolonged periods. And MS is not a place known for cool temps, haha. Another reason in my opinion not to run through the radiator would be that if there was ever internal ruptures in the radiator tubing then you are going to have coolant and trans fluid mixing together which would spell a whole lot of doom for the car. Same reason that folks take the PS cooling system off the engine coolant lines. But if you are ok with the higher temps, more power to ya. Just my opinion on the subject.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

My coolant runs at ~170...and the coolant doesn't contact the trans oil...why wouldn't people just bypass the factory cooler then altogether if it adds heat? It's obviously removing some heat or it wouldn't be on the car...it's an "each his own" type of deal, not saying you're wrong but unless you have back to back info on the SAME car with both set ups then it's just hersay...three will continue to be differimg opinions...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You have no idea what you are talking about fella. The rest of the website, please disregard this post.

For everyone else, the radiator is a mediator. Meaning it levels temps. Your trans will run the same temp 90% of the time the way the stock has it setup. It warms the fluid VERY quickly. Mine liked 190. Adding an additional cooler slowed the warming process. When I deleted the stock cooler it has hell getting over 140. At times I can literally drive for extended distances and never get out of the 130-140 range. This will never happen with the stock cooler in-place in my experience. I'm in the south, its hot and humid here, I don't need a trans warmer. If I lived up north, my opinion would be different. Remember, trans setups don't change based on vehicle location when they are manufactured. It's one size fits all, and that size don't fit me. Or listen to dopey up there.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Actually I'm an engineer so I understand heat transfer and thermodynamics just fine brother....if you would have posted the fact that you ran the stock cooler and external, and then just ran the external cooler it would of got your point across...a lot of people here like to post info with no experience, hard to Seperate fact from opinion, but thanks for the edumacation brother, really schooled me...I love know it alls that you can't even have a convo with...consider yourself an expert

joecar

The other situation is sitting in stopped freeway traffic on a 100F day in the desert...

you will see that the stock in-rad cooler couples the trans fluid temp to the engine coolant temp, even with an external cooler plumbed inline.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I have the 70266 independent of the radiator.

My trans has -6 AN lines and the 70266 has AN lines. I'd recommend going with those types of fitting over the barb fittings. I'd also recommend not using the stock radiator (I don't have the stock radiator either but a BeCool).

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

From what you guys are saying I think I'll bypass the radiator since a lot of you guys are eyeing access with just the external...

joecar

Which cooler do you have...?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Engineer I've been preaching this forever and there are still knuckleheads that refuse to accept the truth and I can't fathom why??? Common sense even tells you, put your hand on a 200 degree radiator, eventually your hand is gonna be 200 degrees right?


I originally started with a 70264, spliced into the cooler lines with their included fittings, inline after the stock setup, mounted on the condenser.

Then I eliminated the stock cooler.

Then I upgraded to a 70274 (about 1/3 bigger).

Then I went to AN stainless lines.

Then I moved it to the bumper after I did a tubular bumper support.

Then I added a fan.
^^My cooler experience in steps in this car with a pan mounted digital gauge the whole way. I've never done dope style or a tube and fin cooler and that's why I don't comment much on that.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Fluid to fluid heat transfer is more efficient that's why I was pondering running both coolers...I did some searching to see if I could find an article describing this and found this hot rod magazine technical article...you take whichever way you'd like, I don't work in heat transfer on a daily basis which is why I posed the idea of running both coolers, each specific case/ cooling system has different characteristics...

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...s/viewall.html

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Certainly brings up a valid point of stop/go traffic, large stall and aftermarket cooler. No air flow means it can't cool well.

I run the big *** b&m cooler up front and parallel a derale fan cooler under the car, kinda the best of both worlds without unneeded heat from the radiator being dumped into my ATF.

In theory, you should run the stock cooler and an aftermarket one, but use a thermostat that would allow ATF to be brought up to a temperature and maintained there, IE not fluctuate with engine temps but maintain a nice constant. Way to much plumbing though for that sort of thing.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

With a 160 stat my car usually never reaches above 170*, that's regular driving, stop and go, and even drag racing (not hot lapping obviously, I can only dream lol)...so I not super worried about radiator transferring heat, I was pondering running the single external due to the overwhelming consensus on this site, but after more investigating I may try the dual cooler, and if temps are undesirable it's pretty easy to swap....

Just curious but where are you running your cooler with the fan on it? That was my original plan, but due to the headache if all the extra wiring and space requirement I went with the simple route..actually installing trans/stall tonite