MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Doing my M6-4L80E swap. I'm wanting to do all of this in one shot. So I need all my parts in before I start and I want whatever has to be modified done before I start. Keep in mind I'm on a tight budget but since my M6 broke I have to do this now so no more time to save up. It's my DD.

What am I missing? What will I have to modify?

I've heard my M6 crossmember can be modified and my tranny mount can be used on the 80E. What will I have to do to the crossmember?

What did you guys do about the torque arm? It won't mount to the tranny so do I have to get another torque arm? I have the stock torque arm and 10 bolt. Oh, I have true duals dumped at the axle too.

I've read I have to cut the ears on the bellhousing. If so anyone have pictures?

What I have:
PCM sent to get flashed (Frost)
A4 pedals
A4 console
Speartech harness
Shifter
Trans cooler and lines
Transmission
Transgo HD2 shift kit
Converter (not yet) waiting to figure out what stall and manufacturer
Flywheel (not yet) Ordering after the torque converter

Is there an alternative to the Lokar dipstick? $100 for a dipstick seems excessive.

Any idea how long my driveshaft needs to be? I'm just going to have mine modified.

Any pictures or help would be appreciated.

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

I went with a BMR crossmember so I could reuse my stock torque arm for the time being. I am not sure how you would have to modify the stock crossmember to get it to work.



A pic of the ears that need cut off. You will see where you need to cut. You will have to clearance your trans tunnel for the transmission plug.

You can use the speartech harness or extend the wires of a stock plug and pin them into your PCM. I chose the later as it was cheaper by far.

Madman sells a 4L80e dipstick that is a lot better than the Lokar one. I have the madman dipstick and it fits perfect.

I am using my stock driveshaft with a conversion u-joint. No need to modify it in anyway.

Only other thing you may need, depending on how you run your trans cooler lines, is the correct fittings that go into the trans. Here is a good thread in regards to early year (Pre-97) 4L80e fittings.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...id-cooler.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...b-adapter.html

There's a thread for a 97+ case and the fittings needed.

If you have any other questions, let me know. If it is in regards to wiring it in, I am not the one to ask though, lol. My buddy took care of all of that.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Did you change the yoke on the 80E to a slip yoke? Mine is not a slip yoke.
I've rewired this entire car including some of the computer pins. I really hate wiring!! I was going to get the TCI controller but $500 wasn't in the budget for it.

I'll have to look at the BMR crossmember. How does your torque arm mount up?

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

Yep, mine is a slip yoke.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

With our BMR 4L80E torque arm relocation crossmember (TCC021) the torque arm mounts directly to the crossmember itself on the upright mounting plate. Our crossmember allows you to either use a factory torque arm or an aftermarket tubular full length torque arm. If you are using a fctory torque arm you will need a one piece poly-urethane torque arm bushings (Prothane or Energy Suspension).

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Do you remember which slip yoke you bought?

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

I don't. I ordered it through Jakes Performance along with the u-joint.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

That looks like it'll work great. Thanks for answering. Now you have me thinking.... I can get a MWC short chromoly torque arm w/mount and ds loop for $130 more and I can get rid of the stock long one or save the $130 and go with the BMR. The BMR looks pretty easy to adjust too.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Is the u-joint 1330 to 1350?

And my tranny doesn't have those ears on it. So I have nothing to cut.

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

It was a 1350.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Our setup is definitely easy to work with and adjust, if you decide that we can help you out let me know and I will make sure we get you taken care of.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

I'm leaning towards the BMR. Looks fairly straight forward and right now would be less work so I could get the car on the road sooner. What is the shipping time looking like?

Blackbird-WS6

iTrader: (15)

have a link?

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=13

To chime in on some other things......those are Summit PN#'s

-Slip yoke- Strange STR-U1650 (same as TH400 one)
-Torque arm- Call Eric at Midwest Chassis. He sells a chassis mounted torque arm setup and 4L80e conversion crossmember. Ultimately, its a much better setup than a full length torque arm. The M6 crossmember cannot be used and would need to be heavily modified.
-Use the stock driveshaft, and get the conversion ujoint. I think its the Moog 1344 to 1350 ujoint, but I could be wrong. MOG-447. Call Jake's and they'll hook you up with that and the slip yoke.
-I have the TCI 399-753 flexplate
-Call Dave @ Yank or Chris @ CircleD for a converter. Let them know what flexplate you are running.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

I spoke with Eric yesterday about their setup. It sounded nice. I already ordered their front bumper support. Thanks for the other info too. I saw Jakes had the yoke. I need to call them too. This is quickly adding up $$$$ but when it's done it's done.

Mystery Bird

iTrader: (7)

BMR cross member here too. I used the dipstick that came with the transmission. It was out of a 2002 GMC two wheel drive truck. The stock 4l60e bracket for shifter works too if you elongate the holes then readjust the cable.

MFJ

iTrader: (4)

Just ordered the BMR crossmember. I figure it'll get me going for now. Still have to get a torque converter, flexplate and slip yoke w/ u-joint. Now I might have to try to find a used converter though.

I really like the short torque arm and mount too. I know it'll be better than the stock ****.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Let me know how the BMR crossmember works out for you.

With regards to the converter, you don't need a $900 converter to get started. Companies can make you a cheaper converter, in the $500 range. You just need to know that it will not likely perform the same as the $900 one.

Check the classifieds daily for a used flexplate and slip yoke. You never know.

Blackbird-WS6

iTrader: (15)

i was thinking about doing the same thing with the stall but then when its all said and done 500+900=1400. seems smart to just spend the extra $400 from the start and be done with it.

x2 on the BMR crossmember info.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Our setup is very straight forward and is easy to work with. Realistically these parts are something we should easily be able to get out within a day or two.