My converter doesn't like flashing, tune?
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My converter doesn't like flashing, tune?
When I went to the track a few months ago, at first I tried hitting it from idle and just above idle, wouldn't 60 ft under 1.90.. I stalled it up to 3000-3500 and was running in the 1.7's. But I think it might be because of the tune.. When I stomped it off idle, it would hesitate, one time it did it for a good little while, and when it finally hit it was lazy at first..
Maybe it's in the stock tune? Car hasn't been tuned ever. Just wondering if it has more in it by getting a tune then flashing it.
Maybe it's in the stock tune? Car hasn't been tuned ever. Just wondering if it has more in it by getting a tune then flashing it.
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Tune, let's separate for clarity. There is an engine section of your tune and a trans section. For the trans side, changes or rather lack of changes won't effect 60 ft time much. On the engine side, it can effect it a ton. Basically the motor isnt making power correctly therefor the car isn't leaving as hard as it should. We recently took a converted LT1 car out and were eager to find out how the new powerplant did at the track. We could not get it to 60 foot better then about 1.9 and it ran in the 14s. We later found out the fuel pump was only putting out about 40 psi. If your back end times show a strong running car (ours obviously didn't) then it likely isn't anything mechanical. You need to dive a little deeper into your time slip. And, I'll add that stock tunes don't hesitate as long as everything is working correctly on the car.
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Tune, let's separate for clarity. There is an engine section of your tune and a trans section. For the trans side, changes or rather lack of changes won't effect 60 ft time much. On the engine side, it can effect it a ton. Basically the motor isnt making power correctly therefor the car isn't leaving as hard as it should. We recently took a converted LT1 car out and were eager to find out how the new powerplant did at the track. We could not get it to 60 foot better then about 1.9 and it ran in the 14s. We later found out the fuel pump was only putting out about 40 psi. If your back end times show a strong running car (ours obviously didn't) then it likely isn't anything mechanical. You need to dive a little deeper into your time slip. And, I'll add that stock tunes don't hesitate as long as everything is working correctly on the car.
Still, I think my next step will be a tune, I was just trying to wait for getting headers but that'd be a while out.
#6
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You can run untuned but they won't perform like they're supposed and may/may not hurt things. Higher stalls should always be tuned. Not a requirement, but definitely a high recommendation.
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#8
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Those are the two most prominent that I'm aware of but I'm sure there are other reasons. No sense in having the computer think the stock 1800 converter is in there when you have a 4000 lol.
PS, do you have a trans cooler?
PS, do you have a trans cooler?
#9
I have seen best results holding the rpm around 1500-2000 at the line and then give it full throttle. I also think part of your problem is in the tune as well, most likely timing related.
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Yea I have a cooler, and OK so mainly performance related things, nothing that can potentially harm the trans right?
And yea j was thinking low rpm timing too. Well I'm going to email frost and see what he can do for me, was hoping a trans only tune.
And yea j was thinking low rpm timing too. Well I'm going to email frost and see what he can do for me, was hoping a trans only tune.