Tig

They really woke it, it drives like a new truck. Its just weird when I'm in OD it feels like it just wants to keep going faster and faster. Its very hard to stay at one speed OD. I may have to bring it back for them to slow it down some, hah.

Tig

Well, I had spoken with the owner of the converter company. Cool guy, very helpful.

From the explanation I had given him. He said that it is going to be one of two things, either the converter or a misfire. I just changed my plugs and wires.
It has a slight hiccup at idle and the tuner at RPM picked up several misfires while we were doing a road tune. Its pretty much been like that since I bought it. And since it doesn't throw any codes, not one tech has even attempted to try to resolve this. All I hear is, if it doesn't throw a code, we cant see anything.

Now, how the hell do I figure out exactly where this misfire is coming from?

This was something I had brought up with the original shop, his answer was "its old".
Misdiagnosis and a ton of money down the drain.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Here's a good read about reading misfires that don't throw a code:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...nder-load.html

Tig

Thanks man, I just left a message over there.

One thing I noticed was, the tuner has said cylinder 3 is misfiring. Cylinder 3 is not a AFM/DOD cylinder, correct?

I'm going to go out and buy a couple of coil packs and throw them on and see what happens. I recently replaced my plugs and wires. I'll try this then I'll go from there.

Tig

Is the correct operating psi on a 4l60e transmission 190psi?

If so, I had my trans tested this afternoon and it showed up at a little less than 80psi in D and 190/200 in R. This was with it running on a lift.
The shop upped my lock up speed so it would stop lugging/shuddering. It did help out but, why would this happen? How do I go about finding why this happened?

Thanks

mrvedit

Your pressure is perfect.
The PCM adjusts the line pressure between about 55psi and 200psi.
In Reverse the trans increases its line pressure to close to max.

Tig

Really? Its perfect?
Wow, this is really throwing me for a loop. I thought I was getting somewhere with this but, back to square one.

Tig

After driving around for a few days, it seems to do what it was doing originally, a slight shudder. Turning up the lock-up speed to 45 seemed to help. It's definitely more tolerable than that ridiculous shudder/vibration/rattling.

I know this is temporary.
I'm going to dig a little deeper to find this misfire and hopefully I'll get some results from that.

Tig

Well, Its been about 2.5 years since this has started. After dealing with this for so long and just getting used to it. I finally had some time over the long weekend to work on it.

I wanted to send mrvedit a big thanks.
The fitzall valve was installed and buttoned up today. Took it for a spin and so far so good. Looks like when they worked on my trans they installed a different/newer TCC valve.
This is what I got. http://www.fitzall.com/supportDetail.php?A74741Q-188.
Also got rid of my PWM with this valve.

mrvedit

Glad to hear that you got your trans working better or perhaps even perfectly now.

Did you install the Fitzall valve without removing the valve body?
I watched the installation video in your link and was surprised that Fitzall claimed it was even possible. Bending and messing with the spring clip like that does seem tedious and frustrating.

Tig

Thanks man. Its a heck of a lot better, close to perfect haha.

I watched that video a dozen or so times to prepare myself. Never been inside a trans before and I was little intimidated, especially about the valve body. Heard a lot of nightmares about people dropping them and the trans never being the same after it was removed.
You know, I tried. I spent more time trying to bend that clip. I gave up and dropped the vb, took two minutes, hahaha.

Thanks again for the help, it was definitely much appreciated.

mrvedit

Yeah, as long as you have new separator plate gaskets or the existing ones are new-ish, and you have some vaseline to hold the check ***** in place, it only takes a few minutes to drop and re-install the valve body.
With the VB removed, I would suggest also removing the separator plate (just a few more bolts) to check its condition, and removing the 1-2 accumulator to check that the piston and springs are still in good condition.

Tig

The gaskets looked new, they were replaced when I had the original work done 2.5 years ago.
Grr, I wish I knew this before, haha. It's all buttoned up now. I'll be sure to go through it more thoroughly next fluid/filter change.