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New 96' 4L60E 3-4 shift flare

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Old 03-24-2014, 05:50 PM
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Default New 96' 4L60E 3-4 shift flare

I just got my transmission rebuilt in my 96' Z28 about 2 months ago by a guy who I know locally that builds transmissions for a living. I put in the Street/Strip kit by Dana at probuilt and the guy who installed it told me he did all the modifications to the valve body and set the all the clearances to the specs provided in the kit. Recently in the past 2 weeks or so I've noticed If I slightly hold the brake pedal down to keep it from locking up the converter the 3-4 shift flares like crazy. If I get in the throttle a good bit I can feel it finally grab and go but It concerns me that its doing this already and I haven't had in the car for more than 700 miles. Does anyone know what this could be? Seems to me that maybe one of the teflon seals couldve possibly got cut. Another thing is when I tore the trans down with the guy the 3-4 clutch pack was burnt up and it was burnt up because the check ball was stuck in the seperator plate. He said he could fix it by installing basically a sleeve that he'd grind down to the thickness of the plate and then drill it out to the size specified in the kit and I never asked him if thats what he ended up doing but I'm assuming he did. If anyone has any suggestions or other checks I could do please let me know, Im all ears.

Thanks
Ben
Old 03-24-2014, 06:19 PM
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Sorry to hear of your troubles. In most cases where the 3/4 clutch fails so quickly it is due to a leak in the 3/4 clutch circuit. Besides the teflon seal you mentioned, it is often the check ball in the 3rd accumulator which is inside the servo area. Another area is where the input shaft enters the input drum; the drum basically splits and starts to leak before failing completely.
(The Sonnax reinforcement ring kit helps prevent this.)
For starters, I would recommend having the trans shop install a new Transgo universal separator plate and drilling it first according to the supplied directions and then according to Dana.
Actually the first thing the trans shop should do is hook up a pressure gauge and confirm that pressures are good and that they rise to the 175psi range when you blip the throttle.
Dana is on this forum as PBA and active over the weekend; he will surely have other suggestions.
Old 03-24-2014, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the info. Ill defiantly try and get in touch with Dana and see what he thinks and what order I should try and tackle this problem in. Like you said id like to do all the tests I can with it still in the car before I have to tear it out again and disassemble it to find the problem.



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