new stall in a stock 2000 4l60e? safe or ???
04-20-2014, 07:37 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
new stall in a stock 2000 4l60e? safe or ??? Hey guys.
I`ve been wanting to run the yank ss3600, But is it okay to put it on without the transmission being built? It has 88k on it. This would be my first time stalling a car. Input would be very appreciated. Thank you
I`ve been wanting to run the yank ss3600, But is it okay to put it on without the transmission being built? It has 88k on it. This would be my first time stalling a car. Input would be very appreciated. Thank you
04-20-2014, 08:12 PM
#2
Moderator
Lots of members here have done exactly that; 88K is not an excessive mileage either.
HOWEVER, you really should install an aftermarket cooler as the stock one is insufficient to cool the heat put out by a high-stall converter. Heat (over 225F) is what really kills a trans.
HOWEVER, you really should install an aftermarket cooler as the stock one is insufficient to cool the heat put out by a high-stall converter. Heat (over 225F) is what really kills a trans.
04-20-2014, 08:50 PM
#4
Moderator
I'm personally not big on an external temp gauge because a good scanner can read the trans temp from the PCM because the trans has an internal temp sensor. I've read several threads here where someone had an external temp sensor which sprung a leak, drain the fluid and ruined the trans. Sure that is rare, but it just seems unnecessary.
Search the trans section for "cooler" and you should be able to find the exact part numbers that many members are using on the Gen-4. Or perhaps someone will be kind enough to post those part numbers again.
There are contrary opinions on this, but by a small majority "most" people put the external cooler in series with the stock cooler and after it. Others prefer the external before the stock and others leave the stock cooler out completely. These varied opinions often indicates it doesn't make much difference which cooler is first, but the absolute consensus is that you need an external cooler with a high stall converter.
Search the trans section for "cooler" and you should be able to find the exact part numbers that many members are using on the Gen-4. Or perhaps someone will be kind enough to post those part numbers again.
There are contrary opinions on this, but by a small majority "most" people put the external cooler in series with the stock cooler and after it. Others prefer the external before the stock and others leave the stock cooler out completely. These varied opinions often indicates it doesn't make much difference which cooler is first, but the absolute consensus is that you need an external cooler with a high stall converter.
04-21-2014, 01:05 PM
#6
A good amount of people use the b&m 70264 cooler. I personally use a big tube and fin style cooler mounted on the condenser and it cools just fine. Like mrvedit already said, as long as you keep the trans temps down it'll last a while.
I run the ss3600 and I love it. IMO its the perfect street converter.
I run the ss3600 and I love it. IMO its the perfect street converter.
04-21-2014, 01:08 PM
#7
I run a bm 70274 with -6an lines and a bigass fan mounted on top of it. So basically run the biggest cooler you can affod and a temp gauge is a must. Deep trans pan is a good thing to have also. MIne holds 3 extra quarts. I ran a Vig3600 on my old stock tranny for probably 20k hard miles until i upgraded to the built trans.
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04-21-2014, 04:54 PM
#8
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
The coolers don't seem expensive! So that's a plus! since a local shop is going to install it should I do a shift kit? or just tighten the lines on pcm?
P.S. next paycheck I am jumping on it!
P.S. next paycheck I am jumping on it!
04-24-2014, 09:11 AM
#11
3rd the HD2 kit
For a car that will see the track, I will also never run another 4l60e without the Sonax HD 2-3 shift valve since it was recommended to me by mrvedit. It will run you around $28 shipped and requires valve body mods so it's best to do it while doing other work.
It lets you race with the selector in 3rd (D) instead of 4th (OD) to keep the over run clutches engaged so the trans isn't trying to engage them at the same time as 3rd gear, this helps prevent slippage/over revving on the 2-3 shift. Another benefit I enjoy is if you put the transmission in 3rd when it automatically downshifts while decelerating it gives more engine braking.
For a car that will see the track, I will also never run another 4l60e without the Sonax HD 2-3 shift valve since it was recommended to me by mrvedit. It will run you around $28 shipped and requires valve body mods so it's best to do it while doing other work.
It lets you race with the selector in 3rd (D) instead of 4th (OD) to keep the over run clutches engaged so the trans isn't trying to engage them at the same time as 3rd gear, this helps prevent slippage/over revving on the 2-3 shift. Another benefit I enjoy is if you put the transmission in 3rd when it automatically downshifts while decelerating it gives more engine braking.
