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csr alum. flexplate, midwest converter gap?

Old 04-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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Default csr alum. flexplate, midwest converter gap?

Hey guys, quick rundown. I installed a rossler 4l60e onto my ls1 with a new csr billet flexplate and midwest racing converter inbetween. When I went to go check the gap between the pads and flexplate, was supprised to see around a .400 gap on all 3 pads. I never hear of anyone running a .275 spacer to shim it in spec.

I tried doing some research, some say the they had problems and the csr piece is junk etc inconclusive info. I bought from fti hopefully they will chime in.

Anyone have any suggestions?
Old 04-22-2014, 01:31 PM
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I could be way off here, but doesn't this sounds like the expected gap if an LT1 4L60E with an LT1 converter to bolted to an LS1 engine?
Did you by chance order a 4L60E for a '96 car? That would be an LT1 and would explain the gap.
Old 04-22-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
I could be way off here, but doesn't this sounds like the expected gap if an LT1 4L60E with an LT1 converter to bolted to an LS1 engine?
Did you by chance order a 4L60E for a '96 car? That would be an LT1 and would explain the gap.
I'm sorry I forgot to say, this is an ls based swap in to a lt1 chassis. The tranny and converter actualy came out of Ray Litz old trans am so I know the trans/converter work together. I think he used a tci flexplate I don't remember...
Old 04-22-2014, 04:34 PM
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Flexplate should measure about .550-.575 in overall height. Converter should measure 6.500-6.550 - hub to converter pad. See if you can get those measurements and report back. If something is way off maybe you have a 4L60 LT style converter, which measures 5.950 range. But shimming that much could pull the converter pilot of of the crank, which is a very bad thing.

Chris
Old 04-22-2014, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
Flexplate should measure about .550-.575 in overall height. Converter should measure 6.500-6.550 - hub to converter pad. See if you can get those measurements and report back. If something is way off maybe you have a 4L60 LT style converter, which measures 5.950 range. But shimming that much could pull the converter pilot of of the crank, which is a very bad thing.

Chris
Thank you for those measurements!

I called up Fti, Gregg thinks the converter was built for a truck motor. I didn't realize there was a difference in crank lengths or flexplates except when using 4l80e.

Chris I will check those and get back to you. Thanks for the help!
Old 04-22-2014, 06:57 PM
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Ok took the tranny back out.

Using a straight edge, from pads to snout is 6.3125
Flexplate is roughly .5625

So my converters off? Il have to call them in the morning.......
Old 04-22-2014, 07:11 PM
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I agree, something sounds off in the converter. Flexplate sounds good.

There is an oddball truck crank in the 99-00 LQ4, but it is longer and would cause the opposite problem you are having. But that crank uses a flat flexplate, not what you have.

Chris
Old 04-23-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
I agree, something sounds off in the converter. Flexplate sounds good.

There is an oddball truck crank in the 99-00 LQ4, but it is longer and would cause the opposite problem you are having. But that crank uses a flat flexplate, not what you have.

Chris
High again Chris, I called up midwest racing and they said last time they cut it open to freshen it they made note saying it cannot be cut anymore, so I guess that's why its so short.

With the converter height that I gave ya, and from the numbers you know can I safely use this converter ? While still keeping the pump engaged and the pilot inserted?

Thanks!
Old 04-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Cutting the converter open will not shorten it, just reduce the overlap which can cause problems when you weld it back together. .275 shim is big. With the tapers on the crank and converter pilot, you might not get enough in there to center it. I suggest to do some measurements to check the engagement depth. I would like to see at least .150 of good engaugment.

Chris
Old 04-23-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
Cutting the converter open will not shorten it, just reduce the overlap which can cause problems when you weld it back together. .275 shim is big. With the tapers on the crank and converter pilot, you might not get enough in there to center it. I suggest to do some measurements to check the engagement depth. I would like to see at least .150 of good engaugment.

Chris
Thanks!

What's the minimum engagement for the snout into the pump?
Old 04-23-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by droksformula
Thanks!

What's the minimum engagement for the snout into the pump?
That is where the .125 number comes from. That means you are fully engaged in the trans and pull out just .125, giving you the proper hub depth.

Chris
Old 04-23-2014, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
That is where the .125 number comes from. That means you are fully engaged in the trans and pull out just .125, giving you the proper hub depth.

Chris
Don't I feel smart lol duh!

I've been scramblin so many numbers lately....

Chris I thank you for your help and I hope this works buy if it doesn't, you will be getting a call for sure!
Old 04-24-2014, 12:40 PM
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Cool, let us know how it works out. We are here if you need us.

Chris
Old 04-24-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
Cool, let us know how it works out. We are here if you need us.

Chris
Ok I took all the measurements.

Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16

If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.

Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.

Last edited by droksformula; 04-24-2014 at 07:28 PM.
Old 04-24-2014, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by droksformula
Ok I took all the measurements.

Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16

If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.

Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.
Not enough.... Can you weld? I can you send an weld on pilot extender, they are .180 thick I think. That would be the best budget option.

Chris
Old 04-25-2014, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Circle-D
Not enough.... Can you weld? I can you send an weld on pilot extender, they are .180 thick I think. That would be the best budget option.

Chris
I can't but I have a friend who can weld like a champ. Would there be a concern of balancing in welding that on? How much?

I also found this, what do you think? Ok for high performance applications? I'd have to machine the thickness down a little at work but looks like an option.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...63532/10002/-1
Old 04-25-2014, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by droksformula
I can't but I have a friend who can weld like a champ. Would there be a concern of balancing in welding that on? How much?

I also found this, what do you think? Ok for high performance applications? I'd have to machine the thickness down a little at work but looks like an option.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...63532/10002/-1
Adapter is not much, $10 range. As long as you center it with the converter pilot you are good to go.

Not sure the GM adapter from Jegs will work. It centers off the OE crank, and I think the CSR flexplate is thicker and there is not enough lip sticking through. You can easily check that.

You will also need some longer bolts for the converter using that big of a shim.

Chris
Old 04-25-2014, 08:50 AM
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I had to shim my converter as well. I used a set of the ARP bolts, they were about .25" longer than the factory bolts.


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