ToxicWS6

reason im making this a new thread even though i found decent info on here on 4l80es and shift kits is for what its going in is not commonly found so lol

i have an 1987 k5 blazer trail/mud truck i ended up doing an lq4 to with 799 heads, well we had it running and bolted to the 700r4 and just needed the TV cable hooked up, when friend and i went to junk yard to get the tv cable i ended up leaving with a 4l80e out of a 2002 silverado 2500hd for $150 instead so i couldn't pass it up lol

well i had a shift kit in the 700r4 and loved it, i wanted to put one in this 4l80e and i figured this was a good test subject before i did one to my DD 2500hd

questions i have are how much harder is it to do it installed on the truck vs sitting out of the truck on a bench? keep in mind the blazer has 10ins of lift and 38s so i can sit Indian style under the truck np and work on what ever lol, trans is currently out but friend made a good point of seein if it at least shifts right and works before putting anymore money/shift kit into it, truck had front end wreck so assuming no tranny issues but no way to tell.

also i saw on the instructions it saying, for average is .086, softer .076, firmer .096, then it says "for off-road use with small diameter high stall converter make holes .120" i was reading on here how some people chose diff sizes for diff holes to help with out spinning through 2nd ect ect. what would you recommend for an "off-road" truck with lq4/799 heads stock cam, stock 2600stall 2500hd stall convereter, 1 tons and 4.56 gears on 38s? i want firm firm, like knock teeth out of your head firm (as long as it dosnt hurt the tranny lol) its not my dd so if it slams gears and doesnt hurt anything cool, my 700r4 would hit 2nd so hard it chirp 35s.

would drilling all the holes .100 be to much?

any other info that i may not be aware of your welcome to chime in.

i plan on getting a ratchet style shifter with a cable also to get rid of the stock solid shift bar/column shift (its kinda bent up lol), but want to keep normal transmission functions, if i put it in D it drives 1st,2nd,3rd and 4th like normal/stock but if i put it in say 1st it wont shift to 2nd gear unless i shift it up into 2nd manually, same with 2nd to 3rd etc

thanks!

tiznodd

iTrader: (4)

In regards to shift firmness, the converter makes a huge difference. I had the stock converter that you plan to use and found .86 1-2, 1.05 2-3 and 1.0 3-4 to be firm. I suspect someone asking for "knock your teeth out" firm would want more. The 1-2 gets really rough quick with small jumps up in drill size. The 2-3 you can't seem to have too big and the 3-4 is somewhere in the middle. I would guess you might like .96 1-2, 1.2 2-3 (or just leave the check ball out) and 1.10 on the 3-4.

A couple of thoughts - if you ever plan to go for a looser converter, drill them out larger. I went from stock to a 10.5" 3000 stall and needed 1.20+ on each to feel good again.

The 1-2 can be violent enough to break stuff if drilled too large. The Intermediate snap ring doesn't like a crazy 1-2 shift unless upgraded to a heavy duty ring like what comes in the HD-2 kit.

Tuning can control a lot of this stuff too. I ended up using some of the torque management tables to tame down some of the shifts.

ToxicWS6

ok cool, thats basically what i was wondering, i dont need it to feel like im dropping clutch at 6k every shift but a really good firm/bang engagement is what i want, ive been in a 4l65e sierra with supposedly a shift kit and 3600 stall converter it shifted very positive, would pull forward with 1>2 shift but wasn't a quick bang just a stock shift that pulled hard if that makes sense, my 700r4 would "bang gears"

if i dont do the snap ring is there a 1>2 shift hole size u recommend not going over?

i personally wasnt going to do more then removing the valve body, would u feel doing the rest of it isnt that bad? should i not be intimidated i guess is what im asking? im usually good about tear down and reassembling stuff with out issues and if it comes with instructions i dont see an issue, just never have done it before

tiznodd

iTrader: (4)

I didn't find the internal mods to be that difficult. I didn't do the pump mods, only the direct spring pack upgrade and HD snap ring. If you take everything apart carefully and lay it out in the order it came out, you should be fine putting it back together. Might as well throw some new clutches/steels in there while you're that far in. The factory Hi-Energy clutches work great.

I don't know how much is too much on a stock snap ring. I wouldn't go past .96 on the 1-2 without upgrading the snap ring, but honestly that's just a guess on my part. I have no first hand experience breaking one.

ToxicWS6

ok cool, thanks! ill try to find the instructions before hand and see how i feel about it lol