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well title says it, i have a LQx drive train out of a 01 suburban 1500 series so 5.3 with 4L60E trans along with the correctly removed OEM wiring harness.
the plan is head work and cam on the 5.3 as i am wanting to get it over 400hp and 450 the perfect goal. it's going into a 99 Jeep Cherokee with custom everything else on 38.5s with 5:29 gears.
now..... what are some suggestions from you guys who know a lot more about these than i?
do i need a higher stall TC? shift kit recommendations? i'd prefer to make it manual shift with a button for the lock up.
I would suggest only a larger boost valve which will tighten up all shifts a bit and increase the maximum line pressure to reduce slippage. Various shift kits have a boost valve, but you can also just get the Sonnax 4L60-LB1 boost valve for about $30. With the pan off, you only need snap ring pliers and 3 minutes to install it.
A full shift kit requires removing the valve body and things can get tricky.
Also, you probably don't want ultra-fast shifts which might cause wheel spin on soft dirt.
Every drive train has a weak link. Typical drag racing sticky tires and WOT starts are hard on the drive train and can reveal the 4L60e as the weak link. I suspect your weak link is the traction in dirt and sand which then puts much less strain on the drive trains and trans.
Disclaimer: I have no experience with off road issues; but have been thinking about it since you posted several days ago.
Ok thanks, that's what I was looking for. I know there are all kinds of shift kits and other what ever else out there but no idea what to look at.
As far as a higher stall TC what are good ones and so they have a lock up? I plan on doing a lot of road driving with this so the OD is pretty important to me.
All of the typical 4L60E TC have lockup. I have not tried manual lockup with a button, but may try this very soon for my own education.
Yank, FTI and Circle D are sponsors and all make excellent converters that have received praise here. North Texas Converter is a new sponsor here and also very active in answering converter and transmissions questions.
While I have a Yank 3600, I have been promoting Circle D because they are so active and responsive in answering questions here; also only heard good things about them.
You should evaluate what RPM range you need for off-roading and then call them for a suggestion; they will custom build a converter for you in the $500 to $750 range.
my truck came stock with 4l60E that I offroad alot in... its my 2nd vehicle that I use to do basically anything I can not do in my car. Tow, offroad, etc.. my stock 4l60e gave up on me after 65K miles, oil was changed every 20K miles...
I bought a "heavy hauler series" trans from performabuilt, lets see how it goes with that one.
btw, its an 08' Chevy Colorado with the vortec 5 cylinder 3.7L motor.. its got every bolt-on / n.a mod you can do to it, only pushing about 260hp, with 4.11 gears, rear locker and 34" tires.
imo, if you want real reliability from the trans, I would have it rebuilt / upgraded to the best your budget will allow you to.
Depending on how you wheel you will brake the 27 spline output to the tcase pretty easy with 38's. Are you sure about the 5.29 gears in your axles? 5.29 is a Toyota ratio. Might be 5.38 or 5.13 those are Dana ratios (I assume some dana axles under there based on the 8 lug). I would do your self a favor now and get a 4l80e with an NP241 behind it. I would also allow the ecm to control shifts with a nice gated shifter such as the Winters shifter. On TC stall that is really more preference then anything else. I like low stall converters (like a stock one). On a shift kit something like the transgo is fine for a 4l80e. For a 4l60e... well... nothing will really hold up honestly. (IMHO)
I have custom axles under it, ford 9" style. 5:29 gears. Going to be a 205 since I already have it and I want the twin stick feature so I can operate front and rear axles as needed. The 241 isn't able to have just the front axle driving with the rear in nutral.
Front one, rear is the same housing but with free float D60 spindles welded on.
My engine guy spend a LOT of time on my heads and the flow bench, says in theory since he is getting 270cfm 500+ hp is possible with the right cam and injectors.
I keep hearing conflicting stories about 60e vs 80e, drag guys have 7/800hp going through them and many of the XJ guys have them in their jeeps although behind a mostly stock 5.3/7.
Are the shafts in them really that weak?
Also if I get a TQ for my 60e would it work later on in an 80e if I upgrade or they are two different TQs?
From what I have gathered here, the output shafts are not really that weak. A nitrous car with slicks is very hard on them due to the sudden impact when the nitrous turns on; for such cars a billet output shaft is recommended.
My suggestion - run what you have and if/when it breaks, buy a Level 3+ from one of the sponsors and ask for their billet output shaft option.
I'm guessing the 60 just won't be able to handle the released shock loads from offroad driving. Where as the agreed high HP guys just have a hard launch to deal with.
If I go from the 60 to the 80 will my comp be able to control it or would I need some kind of stand alone?
01 1500 suburban was the donor truck. I am moding the factory wiring harness and ecu into my jeep.
I don't know the details, but with small electrical mods the stock PCM can control a 4L80E. Lookup threads on 4L60e to 4L80e conversion.
Perhaps someone will share a link to a nice summary of the changes.
Good call on the 80e. And for those who many not be aware twisting splines on transmissions, transfer cases, and axle shafts happens pretty easily in the off road world. It's the application of power to a tire that could be totally bound up.
Ok well granted this is some serious race car stuff it shows the abuse and multiple shock loads put on the tires, to hubs, to axle shafts, to transfer case and trans gears. Not to mention when in the rocks or slow tight spot trying to climb when all 4 are spinning one gets a really good bite. SNAP!!!
ok finally finishing **** up on this turd. motor is almost done, wiring harness is on order and jeep itself is almost done which leaves the 4l80 untouched.
planning on running this converter in a 3000-3200 stall. you guys think this will work out well? i know circle D are talked about a lot on here mostly with good reviews
Sardo_67 good call on the 80, I have several friends who race KOH, RcRocs, and other venues...many have tried to run 4L60 thinking they could get away with it. None of them have a 4L60 anymore. Several times they failed at KOH.
Hell of an axle you have there, don't skimp on the transmission.
I run a 2400 stall on my th400 and am going to probably a 3000 stall on the next one. Reason being is my crawl ratio is only 54:1 so I make the torque converter slip make up the difference. It works absolutely wonderful, great control and wheel speed when you need (ie to save a roll over)...make sure you invest in a very good cooler/fan.
Lovin the Cherocar too! That was my first buggy build.
08-18-2014, 04:54 AM
building a mild race 4L60E.... for offroad? 
