JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Let me start by saying I've always done most of the work on my car besides anything to do with the transmission, I always took it to the shop. Got the car tore down for the turbo build and had to send the converter back to be redone for it. Well, I went ahead and pulled it and I remember when doing it that there were 2 washers per bolt. I lableled everything and took tons of pictures just so I would remember how it went back but forgot to take pics of this. How is it that everything ties together? Bolts through converter to flywheel/ through flywheel to converter/ where do washers go? Sorry for the questions but I've searched for about 30 minutes and haven't found it.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Well I can say this is where they came from but with the converter pushed all the way back in the trans you should have between 1/8th and 3/16th of and inch space between converter pad and flexplate pad if more than 3/16th ad a washer till your under that.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

So your saying to have the converter seated in the Trans and then slide the transmission in that way? Like I said, this is probably stupid questions but this is really the first time I've ever dealt with the Trans/converter. When you say pads, I don't remember anything resembling a pad when I took it apart. Am I missing something here?

98CayenneT/A

Yes seat the converter in the tranny when reinstalling. The converter pads are just the flat part where each converter bolt goes in

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Alright then, was their nuts on them bolts? Hadn't looked for the bag yet but if their was I'm sure they are in there. What is the torque specs and when I seat the converter, it seems like i have read something about hearing a couple clicks when it's supposed to be seated??

98CayenneT/A

The torque specs are 45-50 ft lbs
sometimes you won't always hear distinct clicks when seating the converter but there would be three clicks, also if the converter is seated all the way it will measure about 1 1/8th inches from the top of the bell housing to the converter pad, I would also use blue lock tight for the converter bolts

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Awesome man, thanks a ton for the info. So blue loc-tite and 45lbs on the converter and I'm looking for an 1/8 gap between the converter pad and the flywheel...

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

Yes. If more gap than needed use some flat washers or shims between the flexpalte and converter pads. G.L. its a beech getting washers in there and inserting a bolt without dropping them. Trick is to leave the first bolt as loose as possible to allow max gap between the flexplate and converter for getting the other two washers in and a bolt started to hold them up.

bbond105

I super glued the washers to the converter pads.

mrvedit

You can also buy very thick converter washers so that you don't need multiple washers per bolt. (See my post below in #13) When I don't have such thick washers handy, I use masking tape around the outside of e.g. 3 washers to hold them together and work as one.
I use calipers to match the thickness of washers, both to keep the converter square and to prevent vibration from weight differences.

I wonder if bbond105 has ever superglued himself to the flexplate.

bbond105

I’ve been in a few sticky situations.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Lol, classic line.. Thanks for th help guys. I think I can figure it out from here. Really just never had anything to do with the transmission though. It's always a good time to learn though. This build is making me scratch my head everyday.

mrvedit

To followup on my post #10 about thick converter washers, here is the part #:
Meziere FPS437187 - thickness of .187, package of 3. Pricey at $21, but top quality.

Also, I opened the box for my new converter from CircleD today, and they include both thick and thin spacer washers and three quality bolts. A very nice touch.