ss/gn

What is the best set up? Run the tranny lines threw the stock in rad cooler and an aux cooler or just a large aux cooler??

Thanks in advance

Kevin

ironmikektm525

Been researching this same topic and received info from members here. Some say run through stock cooler some say bypass it. So it's a toss up. What I do know is that pretty much everyone agrees that the b&m 70264 cooler kit is a great kit to go with. That's what I ordered from jegs for $75 shipped. I'm gonna bypass stock cooler. Hope this helps

mrvedit

Since this topic has been brought up many times and there is no clear consensus, I don't think it makes much difference. However my summary of many posts is to skip the stock cooler in warmer climates and run both in cooler climates where you might actually want to warm the trans fluid in the winter. When running both be sure the fluid goes through the stock cooler first and then the aux cooler.

Patro46

There is a difference. There must be. The only argument that could be made is the fact liquid removes heat better than air does. But I may have 60 deg air flying through my cooler, or whatever temp the day is. Going through the radiator, it will cool down to whatever the surrounding coolant is, probably between 190-205 deg. Put more accurately that's the BEST you could hope to achieve. I went with a 10x14 external stacked plate cooler with a Spal fan that is thermostatically controlled. Whatever temp air is being scooped from the front of the nose is what goes through the stacked plate cooler. The thermostat for the Spal fan is set at 190 deg. I don't think it's ever came on yet, though she's never seen an Oklahoma summertime yet either. Either way you shake it, I'm betting an external cooler positioned for adequate airflow will keep things cooler than one integrated into the radiator. Good luck!

mrvedit

Yes there are differences, but it depends upon many factors including outside temp, engine thermostat temp, winter and summer, and more.

If you are running the stock thermostat which runs the coolant at 210F+, it might not cool the trans much and certainly not below 210F. However some people run a 180F or even 160F thermostat which would then cool the trans fluid much more.
In other threads the "average consensus" was that the optimal trans temp is in the 130F-190F range. Therefore in winter you might actually want to raise the temp and the engine tends to warm up faster than the trans.

In short, a big trans cooler makes the biggest difference (the 90% solution) and whether you include or bypass the stock cooler makes a small difference (perhaps the last 10%) but whether it helps or hurts depends upon more factors than most of us could figure out.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

As soon as I removed my factory tranny cooler from the plastic tank on my radiator and ran a B&M cooler......the temp in the metal return lines dropped WAY down. Forgot exactly how much cooler the temp was but like 20-30 degrees with a warmed up engine.

The radiator has upwards of 230*F + coolant going into it......that to me is a heater. Just like the terrible Power Steering coolers GM put on some of our cars.......that metal factory pipe cooler in the upper radiator hose at any given time would give you a 3rd degree burn if you touch it........
My aftermarket power steering fluid cooler.......never gets above 120*F......I can touch it with my hand any time I want. Its never hot.

Bypass the factory cooler. Put a B&M on it. Do NOT lay it up against the radiator....leave a gap so ambient/ram air can mix with the hot air coming off it so you don't create a hot spot on your condensor and/or radiator.

Heres a pic of mine....works great.

.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This is correct, I've run it both ways and bypassing the stock cooler makes the trans run cooler. Problem is in 30 degree weather the trans has a hard time coming up in temp without it.

ss/gn

Thanks for all the replies and input, very much appreciated. I think this is the set up I am going to use.
http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70266K...rentProductId=


Thanks

Kevin
__________________
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soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

cold trans fluid is not an issue.....
you dont hear of people burning up their trans with cold fluids....



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I prefer a rear mount Cooler with a Fan.
routing of lines is easier and shorter
and it doesnt impede any airflow going into your radiator
you actually get quite cool airflow at the back end of the car usually


I used to see 175*-195* trans temps driving around normal with the cooler in front of the radiator.

with it like this, I havent seen over 160* even when beating on the car..
this is a TCI Cooler...26000 GVW rating

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You'll find, your trans shifts slightly slower with cold fluid....especially if you race in D like I do. Under 120ish on the temp and I have a chance of tapping the limiter on the 2/3 shift. Over that, it never misses.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

That's in the tune, not in the trans..

We build them and have never had an issue with cold temps..
Cold fluid does not make it shift slower.
If anything.. the colder fluid will lower the stall speed slightly...but that's it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That's right, it's in the tune. My 2/3 is exactly where I want it when warm. It shifts slower when cold, and it's very predictable and repeatable. The fluid is thicker when cooler yeah? Thinner when warm perhaps? You just said it effects stall speed but want us to believe it doesn't effect shifts also? Foolishness.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Unless I misunderstood and you are telling me their is a specific temp related table in the trans section of the tune that's causing this. If that's the case, then please enlighten me to its location because I never noticed it.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

a Manual Valve body doesnt care what the temperature is....the shift will be the same whether it is 80* or 200*
as long as you dont get the trans fluid super hot... it always shifts the same

with cold fluid you will see a *slight* increase in stall speed (I'm talking like 100 rpm)
if you get it too hot you will see an increase in stall speed (sometimes several hundred rpm)

with an ECU controlled transmission.....
there is a specific table in the tune that changes how the transmission shifts based on trans temp....

pressure modifiers based on transmission temp.....


the picture attached is out of a random file I had on my laptop... you tables may look different...
adjust to suit your needs/desires

there are also downshift pressure modifiers as well...



the colder you can keep the fluid... the better
(within reason...obviously its harder on parts if the fluid is 40* as it doesnt lubricate as well at that temperature...)

mrvedit

Keep in mind that not everyone lives in Louisiana. 40F is a distant dream for some of us.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

So, based on your tables, the settings are the same no matter what temp the fluid is. Is that the way it is stock or has that been changed? I will have to go look at my tune and see where I'm at on mine.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

I wasnt talking about weather temperature...

if your transmission temperature doesnt get over 40F... something is broken or is about to break...
you can get just about any transmission up to 100* just idling even in -20*F weather

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

this one has been changed to do what the customer wanted it to do....

stock the values are all very different.

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

When I start my truck when its cold, at say 60 degrees ambient air temperature(south florida), and drive slowly out of my neighborhood, my transmission shifts sooner and a bit quicker, than later on, when the tranny is hot.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

Once again.. its all in the tune...
Ambient air temperature has nothing to do with how it shifts..

Adjust your transmission parameters in the tune and you can make it shift the same all the time.