car reverse but won't drive when in drive gear? help!!
07-03-2015, 07:04 PM
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car reverse but won't drive when in drive gear? help!! My car goes in reverse but won't drive when in the drive gear please help my car is my dd.
07-04-2015, 02:13 AM
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How hard is it to replace the forward piston and am gonna replace the trans fluid and filter cuz I read in the Haynes repair manual to do it every 3000 miles or 3 months and i doubt the owner before me did it at all. I read the book and some of the symptoms I read were the same problems I went through before it spazed out on me so... Hopefully this is it. But still open to other opinions on the matter.
07-04-2015, 04:03 PM
#5
How hard is it to replace the forward piston and am gonna replace the trans fluid and filter cuz I read in the Haynes repair manual to do it every 3000 miles or 3 months and i doubt the owner before me did it at all. I read the book and some of the symptoms I read were the same problems I went through before it spazed out on me so... Hopefully this is it. But still open to other opinions on the matter.
You might be in a little deep because if either the forward piston or clutches are bad, the transmission needs to be dropped and rebuilt. If you've never even changed your engine oil, an automatic transmission rebuild is out of your league. No offense meant, but it's basically the most difficult thing to repair on a vehicle.
Find a reputable transmission shop (this is key) and have them rebuild it or have an already rebuilt one swapped with your broken one. Expect to pay around $1,500.
But I'm not an expert. Let either mrvedit or bbond105 give their diagnosis. I've only rebuilt my own 4l60e transmission.
07-04-2015, 05:04 PM
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No I know what a transmission is I just typed it up wrong was thinking about too many things at once and I always change my oil and filter buut I'm talking about the filter in the transmission and the transmission fluid.
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07-06-2015, 06:28 PM
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For any one who cares I replaced the transmission filter and fluids and still nothing but will say it doesn't shift hard any more but still don't drive when in drive gear so will take it to a professional transmission rebuild shop tomorrow.
07-06-2015, 07:04 PM
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07-06-2015, 08:27 PM
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The forward piston is in the valve body, and the valve body can be removed without removing the trans.
I don't recall a single thread here where the forward piston failed.
More likely, based on (relatively rare) problems reported here, is that the input drum cracked, a snap ring popped off and the internals of the input drum are shot. Clearly the trans then needs a complete rebuild.
If the car moves with the shifter in the [D1] position and you can manually shift up as the car speeds up, this indicates for the forward sprag (inside the input drum) is shot. I have heard of the sprag "exploding" and busting the forward clutch.
In short, unless it is just the forward piston (unlikely), your trans will need a rebuild.
Only those people that really want the learning experience and are slightly masochistic should attempt a trans rebuild as a newbie. The success rate used to be around 50%, but if I dare toot my own horn (as my head swells and bends my glasses) I have helped a bunch of members succeed on their first try.
Cory has a good thread on his first rebuild.
It requires a bunch of specialized tools, many hours, and ideally access to a local cooperative trans shop for things like case cleaning and last minute parts. There are over 200 different parts in a 4L60E. Accidentally slice one hidden seal or forget one tiny o-ring and it won't work or fail prematurely.
I don't recall a single thread here where the forward piston failed.
More likely, based on (relatively rare) problems reported here, is that the input drum cracked, a snap ring popped off and the internals of the input drum are shot. Clearly the trans then needs a complete rebuild.
If the car moves with the shifter in the [D1] position and you can manually shift up as the car speeds up, this indicates for the forward sprag (inside the input drum) is shot. I have heard of the sprag "exploding" and busting the forward clutch.
In short, unless it is just the forward piston (unlikely), your trans will need a rebuild.
Only those people that really want the learning experience and are slightly masochistic should attempt a trans rebuild as a newbie. The success rate used to be around 50%, but if I dare toot my own horn (as my head swells and bends my glasses) I have helped a bunch of members succeed on their first try.
Cory has a good thread on his first rebuild.
It requires a bunch of specialized tools, many hours, and ideally access to a local cooperative trans shop for things like case cleaning and last minute parts. There are over 200 different parts in a 4L60E. Accidentally slice one hidden seal or forget one tiny o-ring and it won't work or fail prematurely.
07-06-2015, 10:28 PM
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The forward piston is in the valve body, and the valve body can be removed without removing the trans.
I don't recall a single thread here where the forward piston failed.
More likely, based on (relatively rare) problems reported here, is that the input drum cracked, a snap ring popped off and the internals of the input drum are shot. Clearly the trans then needs a complete rebuild.
If the car moves with the shifter in the [D1] position and you can manually shift up as the car speeds up, this indicates for the forward sprag (inside the input drum) is shot. I have heard of the sprag "exploding" and busting the forward clutch.
In short, unless it is just the forward piston (unlikely), your trans will need a rebuild.
Only those people that really want the learning experience and are slightly masochistic should attempt a trans rebuild as a newbie. The success rate used to be around 50%, but if I dare toot my own horn (as my head swells and bends my glasses) I have helped a bunch of members succeed on their first try.
Cory has a good thread on his first rebuild.
It requires a bunch of specialized tools, many hours, and ideally access to a local cooperative trans shop for things like case cleaning and last minute parts. There are over 200 different parts in a 4L60E. Accidentally slice one hidden seal or forget one tiny o-ring and it won't work or fail prematurely.
I don't recall a single thread here where the forward piston failed.
More likely, based on (relatively rare) problems reported here, is that the input drum cracked, a snap ring popped off and the internals of the input drum are shot. Clearly the trans then needs a complete rebuild.
If the car moves with the shifter in the [D1] position and you can manually shift up as the car speeds up, this indicates for the forward sprag (inside the input drum) is shot. I have heard of the sprag "exploding" and busting the forward clutch.
In short, unless it is just the forward piston (unlikely), your trans will need a rebuild.
Only those people that really want the learning experience and are slightly masochistic should attempt a trans rebuild as a newbie. The success rate used to be around 50%, but if I dare toot my own horn (as my head swells and bends my glasses) I have helped a bunch of members succeed on their first try.
Cory has a good thread on his first rebuild.
It requires a bunch of specialized tools, many hours, and ideally access to a local cooperative trans shop for things like case cleaning and last minute parts. There are over 200 different parts in a 4L60E. Accidentally slice one hidden seal or forget one tiny o-ring and it won't work or fail prematurely.
I would love to try an rebuild on my transmission but I work at a gas station and wont have the time, I will be working all the time, but I'm just gonna pay for an transmission already rebuilt. Thanks for the info guys really appreciate it and no my car do not go forward in D1
07-06-2015, 10:33 PM
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Oh yeah, any body ever got an rebuilt transmission from National-Trans?? I heard when they rebuild our 4l60e transmissions they are alot stronger and lighter in terms of weight?? Any knowledge shared about them would be greatly appreciated.
07-06-2015, 10:47 PM
#18
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The only way a 4L60E can be made lighter would be to use it on the moon. 
Seriously, I have bought and tried just about every aftermarket part made and none make it lighter; many performance parts make it a tiny bit heavier.
I would avoid any "national" high volume trans rebuilder - they tend to be built by minimally trained mechanics who have to make a quota and reuse as many parts as possible.
In contrast I know that with our sponsors FLT, RPM and Performabuilt, each transmission is built by the same 2 or 3 people, each with 10+ years experience, and they spend as much time as it takes and replace every part that is even questionable.
Seriously, I have bought and tried just about every aftermarket part made and none make it lighter; many performance parts make it a tiny bit heavier.
I would avoid any "national" high volume trans rebuilder - they tend to be built by minimally trained mechanics who have to make a quota and reuse as many parts as possible.
In contrast I know that with our sponsors FLT, RPM and Performabuilt, each transmission is built by the same 2 or 3 people, each with 10+ years experience, and they spend as much time as it takes and replace every part that is even questionable.
07-07-2015, 11:51 AM
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The only way a 4L60E can be made lighter would be to use it on the moon.
Seriously, I have bought and tried just about every aftermarket part made and none make it lighter; many performance parts make it a tiny bit heavier.
I would avoid any "national" high volume trans rebuilder - they tend to be built by minimally trained mechanics who have to make a quota and reuse as many parts as possible.
In contrast I know that with our sponsors FLT, RPM and Performabuilt, each transmission is built by the same 2 or 3 people, each with 10+ years experience, and they spend as much time as it takes and replace every part that is even questionable.
Seriously, I have bought and tried just about every aftermarket part made and none make it lighter; many performance parts make it a tiny bit heavier.
I would avoid any "national" high volume trans rebuilder - they tend to be built by minimally trained mechanics who have to make a quota and reuse as many parts as possible.
In contrast I know that with our sponsors FLT, RPM and Performabuilt, each transmission is built by the same 2 or 3 people, each with 10+ years experience, and they spend as much time as it takes and replace every part that is even questionable.
which is best outta the 3???
03-23-2022, 03:05 PM
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I am also having a problem similar to this. I got a 97 mustang gt 4.6 it has a hell of a reverse. But no forward unless it's on the lift. Even then put it in drive the wheels barley spin. I have to almost redline it then let the rpms drop down about 2k then I get full power. I have replaced the trans, new torque converter, new transmission harness. Still same problem.