s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, building a 1995 4l80e that can handle up to 800-1000hp. Supporting a 370ci s484 turbo build. I recently dropped off the transmission at my builders house and he emailed me this build list---

300mm input shaft ($289)
t-400 alum pro mod sprag and drum complete ($785)
t-400 billet forward clutch hub ($75)
clutch hub thrust bearing ($14)
steel, 400/425/4l80e forward .060 thick ($102)
friction, 400 forward and direct ($103)
4l80e shift kit ($125)
"We would also need o/haul kit filter bushing kit band & electronics. Plus your converter. Probably about 2200 dollars"

I already have a Yank pro series 3400 converter FYI.

1. What are your thoughts on this build list?
2. Anything that should be added or removed?
3. Anything that looks a overpriced?

clinebarger

In my opinion....You don't need a Aluminum Direct Drum unless your spinning the engine past 7,200 RPM.

The Billet Input Shaft & Forward clutch hub are recommended at this level.

With the Forward & Direct frictions & steels....Sounds like he is going to use Alto Red's & Kolene Steels. NOT needed!!!, The Factory Hi-Energy frictions work great! The stock 5 count in the Forward drum is fine, You can run 6 frictions in the Direct drum if you want using thinner forward steels. Same for the Intermediate clutches...Hi-Energy! Stock "Cellulose" O/D & Overrun clutches also.

The shift kit I am going to assume is a Trans Go 4L80E HD2?
Pros...
Intermediate clutch snap ring.
Direct Clutch Piston return springs.
Drilling a "Line to Lube bypass"
Larger Boost Valve & Heavier PR spring, I prefer the Sonnax 4L80E-LB1 boost valve for the O-rings & better machining quality. But the TG boost valve works.
AFL/Solenoid Filter end plug.

Cons...
Layered separator plate to dual feed the direct clutches, If you were throwing a shift kit in a wreaking yard unit.....It's better than nothing!, But your having yours gone through.....Have the Direct internally Dual Feed! Less chance of a leak/cross leak.
The pressure relief valve, These can develop leaks....Dropping line pressure.

I ream the AFL valve bore & install a oversized AFL valve 100% on these units, They always show leakage when wet air testing/vacuum testing, This kit is cheap...http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...dcountview=Yes

Another Valve Body wear point is the TCC regulator valve bore, http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2025

As for parts pricing, Will not get into that, Your builder has to pay his overhead, Cover warranty, Payroll, etc, etc...

LT1PWRD

iTrader: (2)

I agree with these suggestions and opinions exactly ^^^

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

Thank you for your input man! Okay so to put it into simple terms because I'm not that knowledgable on transmission parts-


so drop the following items=
- aluminum drum
- steel clutches

and make sure these are installed=
+ stock hi-energy/cellulose clutches
+ HD2 shift kit
+ billet input shaft
+ forward clutch hub
+ "direct internal dual feed"
+ oversized AFL valve
+ TCC regulator valve bore

thanks again for taking your time to write that.

LT1PWRD

iTrader: (2)

Definately sounds good so far. No interest in a transbrake? It would also solve the 3rd feed mod and choosing a shift kit. Now's the time to do it.

clinebarger

I made several assumptions in my post as too what your builder is doing, He is being very vague, But you get the Gist of it....Stock Borg Warner or Raybestos Clutch/Steel Module will be fine.

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

I would like a transbrake but never looked into them and always assumed they're very expensive. How much do they usually run?
Yes I know it's very vague. I would rather you be very into detail so I can explain myself to him easier. Any questions or anything you would like me to ask him?

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Transbrakes go for 500-700 dollars depending on which company you go with. I would do a steel 36 element Super Drum though for sure

There is the aluminum and the steel 36 drums, steel being a cheaper. CK performance has decent prices for hard parts.

clinebarger

How many stock 34 element Sprags have you broken? (With holding burnout procedure mishaps).

GMCtrk

iTrader: (23)

Your part list looks good to me.

The other thing to consider is your vehicle is light. That's going to be much easier on parts. You could probably get away with a stock input shaft but I believe it's always better to overbuild than underbuild. I don't like breaking down.

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

So either stock drum or steel one. I don't think I'm going to go with a trans brake for right now. I want to keep it street tendencies and not make it a drag car (even though that would be nice.) I will be getting a two-step box eventually.
My car weighs 3320 with its old setup. Probably around 3400 with new setup. I will definitely be getting the bigger input shaft. I agree too. I didn't think that the first two builds.........

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

If you are going turbo, a trans brake is the best thing in the world! You will have a tough time getting the car not to roll forward on the 2-step without a trans brake when trying to launch it.

I have never broke a stock sprag because I went directly to a 36 steel, and then a 36 aluminum after that.

A trans brake won't make any less of "Street" car, you don't even know you have it until you want to use it. The rossler brake you don't have to engage the brake to go in reverse, Jake's D3 and North Texas Converter requires the trans brake to be activated for reverse. I have a North Texas Converter trans brake, and we wired it up to a relay which allows the car to go into reverse without using a separate switch.

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

Generally I agree with this, but I would keep the drum regardless. Room to grow, and an aluminum 36 element drum is a very premium part. I'd put one in almost every build if I could. Do NOT stay with the stock drum sprag/setup.
[/QUOTE]

Also agree, Hi Energies from the late model 4L80Es by far. I will say though that typically the stock 5 steels in the direct with the addition of one extra friction and a .060" steel should yield the results you want. Often the drums in the 4L80Es just require a re-stack and proper clearances can be achieved.

I also prefer the Sonnax boost valve. Direct return springs can be bought on their own, though I prefer to drill a bleed hole in the drum rather than taking the entire cage apart and replacing the springs. A heavy duty intermediate snap ring can also be acquired elsewhere, from another transmission.

The separator plate on the TransGo units is a nightmare. Avoid sandwich plates at all costs.

Not a bad idea at all here OP, especially with an early unit.

I will chime in and say your builder is giving you VERY good pricing on these parts OP. I'm actually quite impressed, so rest assured. Those 36 element aluminum drums are VERY expensive, many retailers list them at $1,000 and above.