6.0l / 4l60e swap no forward or reverse
10-15-2015, 01:05 AM
#1
6.0l / 4l60e swap no forward or reverse Hey guys just buttoned up my 6.0l /4l60e swap into my wife's 98 Camaro roller....I installed a trans cooler while I did I started it up and flushed a little fluid out...quite a bit seemed to come out .....buttoned it all up and just today after the odessy of learning the LS platform and this 496th gen was gonna drive it...and nothing...
1. I have installed a BM Hammer shifter with the 4l60e lever and hole. I tried to hold between detente to determine if it even tried to pull in at some point....it didn't...
2. I have verified external shift selector movement...
3. When this was first,discovered today the fluid level was full with engine off and dropped to a qt low when starter ( seeming to tell me fluid is circulating) so I topped it off with another qt
4. Its a 3600 pro edge billet stall , the guy sent me a video before he pulled it for a 4000 yank...and ive,had 3 other pro edge stalls before no issues...
5. The stall come from proven source and behind a LS in fbody, the 4l60e out of a 2004 GTO.....( codes came back to that only) so spline shouldnt be an issue....
6. On install and before start I measure the gap at .187 between TC and flexplate so I shimmed .060 like on my BBC and 4l80a.
7. I engaged the TC and it seemed to go into the splines normally...
Any help would be appreciated I guess nothing but a bad pump would explain no gear, but it has some pressure.....? Any hope?
1. I have installed a BM Hammer shifter with the 4l60e lever and hole. I tried to hold between detente to determine if it even tried to pull in at some point....it didn't...
2. I have verified external shift selector movement...
3. When this was first,discovered today the fluid level was full with engine off and dropped to a qt low when starter ( seeming to tell me fluid is circulating) so I topped it off with another qt
4. Its a 3600 pro edge billet stall , the guy sent me a video before he pulled it for a 4000 yank...and ive,had 3 other pro edge stalls before no issues...
5. The stall come from proven source and behind a LS in fbody, the 4l60e out of a 2004 GTO.....( codes came back to that only) so spline shouldnt be an issue....
6. On install and before start I measure the gap at .187 between TC and flexplate so I shimmed .060 like on my BBC and 4l80a.
7. I engaged the TC and it seemed to go into the splines normally...
Any help would be appreciated I guess nothing but a bad pump would explain no gear, but it has some pressure.....? Any hope?
10-15-2015, 01:11 PM
#2
Moderator
Wow, you have checked a lot.
You did re-install the driveshaft?
Confirm that the wheels lock in Park, and don't lock in other shifter positions.
Might you have a trans pressure gauge to hook up?
Generally if the dipstick shows a quart lower with the engine running, that is a good indication the pump is working.
Are you sure that your converter matches the trans, as there are both 298mm and 300mm input shafts and they absolutely need the matching converter.
You did re-install the driveshaft?
Confirm that the wheels lock in Park, and don't lock in other shifter positions.
Might you have a trans pressure gauge to hook up?
Generally if the dipstick shows a quart lower with the engine running, that is a good indication the pump is working.
Are you sure that your converter matches the trans, as there are both 298mm and 300mm input shafts and they absolutely need the matching converter.
10-15-2015, 01:58 PM
#3
No I'm not sure the stall matches the trans at all....I am unfamiliar with the details of that in regards to the 4l60a. bUT I know this is a LS stall that was behind a ls1 and the trans is for sure a 2005 GTO 4l60e.....it seemed to go on normal I think 2 engagements if I recall.....
I also used HPtuners to verify that the PCM was reading the gear changes as I command them from the shifter and it does....since the extra selector is u hooked i guess this means internally it's moving the linkages right?
I also used HPtuners to verify that the PCM was reading the gear changes as I command them from the shifter and it does....since the extra selector is u hooked i guess this means internally it's moving the linkages right?
Wow, you have checked a lot.
You did re-install the driveshaft?
Confirm that the wheels lock in Park, and don't lock in other shifter positions.
Might you have a trans pressure gauge to hook up?
Generally if the dipstick shows a quart lower with the engine running, that is a good indication the pump is working.
Are you sure that your converter matches the trans, as there are both 298mm and 300mm input shafts and they absolutely need the matching converter.
You did re-install the driveshaft?
Confirm that the wheels lock in Park, and don't lock in other shifter positions.
Might you have a trans pressure gauge to hook up?
Generally if the dipstick shows a quart lower with the engine running, that is a good indication the pump is working.
Are you sure that your converter matches the trans, as there are both 298mm and 300mm input shafts and they absolutely need the matching converter.
10-15-2015, 07:15 PM
#4
Moderator
No I'm not sure the stall matches the trans at all....I am unfamiliar with the details of that in regards to the 4l60a. bUT I know this is a LS stall that was behind a ls1 and the trans is for sure a 2005 GTO 4l60e.....it seemed to go on normal I think 2 engagements if I recall.....
Saying "I think 2 engagements" gives me pause. First, there are three sections that need to engage. Second, trying to count engagements is a sure way to need a new transmission. The proper and ONLY way to be sure the converter is fully engaged is to measure it. With a straight edge over the bell housing, measure the distance to the converter pads. For the 4L60E (and most other Chevy transmissions) the proper distance is 1-1/8" +- 1/8". Anything less than 1" indicates the converter is not fully installed.
However, you mentioned a pad to flexplate distance of .187 which indicates the converter was fully installed. When not fully installed, that distance is typically ZERO, or actually negative.
Hooking up a pressure gauge is probably your next step. If you don't have one, they are only $35 with free prime shipping on Amazon - search "ATD-5550".
10-16-2015, 11:37 AM
#5
Thanks ,
I will say this today I pulled the last return line after the radiator and aux trans cooler had my wife start it...and it pushed a steady hard stream of fluid filling a gallon container in about 30 seconds....so I took off pan linkage was hooked everything fine changed filter....
Ive been told that nothing electrical could cause it to not at least go in reverse? And its good some serious flow.....
Thanks for the tip on the proper way to measure TC just no room anywhere with these cars lol
I will say this today I pulled the last return line after the radiator and aux trans cooler had my wife start it...and it pushed a steady hard stream of fluid filling a gallon container in about 30 seconds....so I took off pan linkage was hooked everything fine changed filter....
Ive been told that nothing electrical could cause it to not at least go in reverse? And its good some serious flow.....
Thanks for the tip on the proper way to measure TC just no room anywhere with these cars lol
OK. Then the converter and the trans should match as they are both LS style.
Saying "I think 2 engagements" gives me pause. First, there are three sections that need to engage. Second, trying to count engagements is a sure way to need a new transmission. The proper and ONLY way to be sure the converter is fully engaged is to measure it. With a straight edge over the bell housing, measure the distance to the converter pads. For the 4L60E (and most other Chevy transmissions) the proper distance is 1-1/8" +- 1/8". Anything less than 1" indicates the converter is not fully installed.
However, you mentioned a pad to flexplate distance of .187 which indicates the converter was fully installed. When not fully installed, that distance is typically ZERO, or actually negative.
Hooking up a pressure gauge is probably your next step. If you don't have one, they are only $35 with free prime shipping on Amazon - search "ATD-5550".
Saying "I think 2 engagements" gives me pause. First, there are three sections that need to engage. Second, trying to count engagements is a sure way to need a new transmission. The proper and ONLY way to be sure the converter is fully engaged is to measure it. With a straight edge over the bell housing, measure the distance to the converter pads. For the 4L60E (and most other Chevy transmissions) the proper distance is 1-1/8" +- 1/8". Anything less than 1" indicates the converter is not fully installed.
However, you mentioned a pad to flexplate distance of .187 which indicates the converter was fully installed. When not fully installed, that distance is typically ZERO, or actually negative.
Hooking up a pressure gauge is probably your next step. If you don't have one, they are only $35 with free prime shipping on Amazon - search "ATD-5550".
10-16-2015, 12:45 PM
#6
Moderator
You are correct that nothing electrical can prevent Reverse from working.
Sounds like your pump is working.
That only leaves the converter (correct type, not broken), input shaft and output shaft.
Did you make the Park and No-Park test?
Sounds like your pump is working.
That only leaves the converter (correct type, not broken), input shaft and output shaft.
Did you make the Park and No-Park test?