Spacer question
11-13-2015, 01:07 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Chesterville, OH, USA
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spacer question Yes, I read the sticky and yes I did a search.
I am just replacing a cracked flexplate in a GMC 2500 truck.
LQ4 engine and 4l80e trans. It is a 2002 and does not have extended crank. It does have the spacer between the crank and stock flat flexplate.
What I bought was the Hughes HP4004x-ebp flexplate from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp4004x-ebp
The new flexplate is dished.
Do I put it on without the spacer? (it looks like it will work)
Put the spacer between flexplate & converter? (something about supporting the nose of the converter)
Send it back to Summit & get a flat flexplate?
I am just replacing a cracked flexplate in a GMC 2500 truck.
LQ4 engine and 4l80e trans. It is a 2002 and does not have extended crank. It does have the spacer between the crank and stock flat flexplate.
What I bought was the Hughes HP4004x-ebp flexplate from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp4004x-ebp
The new flexplate is dished.
Do I put it on without the spacer? (it looks like it will work)
Put the spacer between flexplate & converter? (something about supporting the nose of the converter)
Send it back to Summit & get a flat flexplate?
Last edited by shawnr; 11-13-2015 at 02:27 PM.
11-14-2015, 07:41 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Chesterville, OH, USA
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ended up just running to Jegs this morning and picking up a TCI flat flexplate (TCI399754). Summit will take the Hughes one back
It is WAY overkill for stock engine and stock truck, but I really don't want to have to do this again. I ditched the original spacer since this one has it built into the flexplate.
Now I have a fairly loud ticking sound when the truck is running.
My theory is that since this new one is significantly thicker, the bolt heads are tapping against something as it rotates. I am hoping that it is just the shied underneath the converter. I'll probably pull it tomorrow and verify. I may just let the hardened bolt heads chew their way thru the aluminum and make a path.
It is WAY overkill for stock engine and stock truck, but I really don't want to have to do this again. I ditched the original spacer since this one has it built into the flexplate.
Now I have a fairly loud ticking sound when the truck is running.
My theory is that since this new one is significantly thicker, the bolt heads are tapping against something as it rotates. I am hoping that it is just the shied underneath the converter. I'll probably pull it tomorrow and verify. I may just let the hardened bolt heads chew their way thru the aluminum and make a path.
12-16-2016, 03:15 PM
#5
Yes, I read the sticky and yes I did a search.
I am just replacing a cracked flexplate in a GMC 2500 truck.
LQ4 engine and 4l80e trans. It is a 2002 and does not have extended crank. It does have the spacer between the crank and stock flat flexplate.
What I bought was the Hughes HP4004x-ebp flexplate from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp4004x-ebp
The new flexplate is dished.
Do I put it on without the spacer? (it looks like it will work)
Put the spacer between flexplate & converter? (something about supporting the nose of the converter)
Send it back to Summit & get a flat flexplate?
I am just replacing a cracked flexplate in a GMC 2500 truck.
LQ4 engine and 4l80e trans. It is a 2002 and does not have extended crank. It does have the spacer between the crank and stock flat flexplate.
What I bought was the Hughes HP4004x-ebp flexplate from Summit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp4004x-ebp
The new flexplate is dished.
Do I put it on without the spacer? (it looks like it will work)
Put the spacer between flexplate & converter? (something about supporting the nose of the converter)
Send it back to Summit & get a flat flexplate?
https://youtu.be/8wpaqjiQXYI
12-16-2016, 05:05 PM
#6
I recommended the bolt on spacer because the OP had one already. He didn't have to buy anything. The bolt on spacer does properly center the converter. It has been my experience that the crank sticks through a stamped steel flex plate enough to center the spacer too. Of course the pilot extender is an option and it works.
OP, the TCI flex plate is nice. It is not a "flat" flex plate even though It looks flat. It has risers where the converter bolts up. This simulates the factory dish. You will still have to use the supplied pilot extender.
-Brian
OP, the TCI flex plate is nice. It is not a "flat" flex plate even though It looks flat. It has risers where the converter bolts up. This simulates the factory dish. You will still have to use the supplied pilot extender.
-Brian
12-16-2016, 05:32 PM
#7
I recommended the bolt on spacer because the OP had one already. He didn't have to buy anything. The bolt on spacer does properly center the converter. It has been my experience that the crank sticks through a stamped steel flex plate enough to center the spacer too. Of course the pilot extender is an option and it works.
OP, the TCI flex plate is nice. It is not a "flat" flex plate even though It looks flat. It has risers where the converter bolts up. This simulates the factory dish. You will still have to use the supplied pilot extender.
-Brian
OP, the TCI flex plate is nice. It is not a "flat" flex plate even though It looks flat. It has risers where the converter bolts up. This simulates the factory dish. You will still have to use the supplied pilot extender.
-Brian
hmm well when when I tried the GM spacer between the converter and the flexplate it floated as there was nothing to definitively center this spacer other than the bolts and it had movement so.....
