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Really depends on the Slip Yoke, The "3R" U-joint compatible 32 spline yoke I get from my driveline rebuilder works fine in 4th gen swaps using the stock drive shaft.
3R is the U-Joint series in your car now, If you buy a "Lets say" 1310 series Yoke, You have to run a 3R to 1310 Conversion U-joint.
Really depends on the Slip Yoke, The "3R" U-joint compatible 32 spline yoke I get from my driveline rebuilder works fine in 4th gen swaps using the stock drive shaft.
3R is the U-Joint series in your car now, If you buy a "Lets say" 1310 series Yoke, You have to run a 3R to 1310 Conversion U-joint.
Really depends on the Slip Yoke, The "3R" U-joint compatible 32 spline yoke I get from my driveline rebuilder works fine in 4th gen swaps using the stock drive shaft.
3R is the U-Joint series in your car now, If you buy a "Lets say" 1310 series Yoke, You have to run a 3R to 1310 Conversion U-joint.
What about the driveshaft length....will it be fine?
I'm doing the same 4L80e swap in my 01 Camaro. Im stuck with completing the job due to having a bolt in style rear shaft. You need to make sure you buy the right yoke for the rear shaft or you will be in my boat spending money on parts you cant use. Good luck with the build!!
I'm doing the same 4L80e swap in my 01 Camaro. Im stuck with completing the job due to having a bolt in style rear shaft. You need to make sure you buy the right yoke for the rear shaft or you will be in my boat spending money on parts you cant use. Good luck with the build!!
Like "kblehm" mentioned in his above post. A bolt-in style rear shaft. I just asked my transmission guy and he said my 4L80E has a bolt-in style shaft. But he can swap it to the other style real quick.
Like "kblehm" mentioned in his above post. A bolt-in style rear shaft. I just asked my transmission guy and he said my 4L80E has a bolt-in style shaft. But he can swap it to the other style real quick.
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OK. Yeah, You need a fully splined Output Shaft, Or Machine the "Bolt -On" Output Shaft, Or Counter Bore the Yoke. More than one way to skin this cat. Installing the correct shaft is the preferred method.
OK. Yeah, You need a fully splined Output Shaft, Or Machine the "Bolt -On" Output Shaft, Or Counter Bore the Yoke. More than one way to skin this cat. Installing the correct shaft is the preferred method.
Ok....so the easiest thing to do is just have my tranny guy swap it...?
What is the other type of rear shaft called...? If I have a bolt-in type...whats the other type called.
Or is just that the bolt-in type only has the splines that run halfway down the shaft....?
One other question:
After my turbo kit goes in I want to have a carbon fiber shaft made....will I use the same rear shaft my tranny guy is swapping in and the same slip yoke...? Or will I need to buy new stuff and change the shaft again?
You would be surprised how much a stock drive shaft will take if its balanced well & avoid wheel hop & tire shake.
When having any new DS made, Measure it how (whatever) vendor your using wants you too.
Yea, I broke two aluminum factory shafts. One was in a parking lot at 5mph...it just broke. The other one at 150mph at WOT on the highway. All I heard was a little bump and it was gone. I never found it, none of it.
I'll use this factory steal shaft at least till November when my turbo kit gets installed. It should have at least 1,000 RWHP at that time...so I was gonna get a carbon fiber shaft. I just hate that thought of getting launched if the broken half hits the ground like a catapult....lol
My new Torque Arm has a loop built into it, but if the shaft breaks at the right spot it can easily catapult the car....I need a rear loop but nobody makes one. If it had two loops in the right spot then none of the shaft can hit the ground if it breaks.
I like the idea of carbon fiber turning to dust of it breaks...and for another $150.00 you can get a lifetime warranty. Get another one made if it breaks.
Yes...PST told me exactly how they want it measured when I'm ready to order one.
4L80E's & 300mm 4L60E's are almost identical in length, No drive shaft cutting required.... Attachment 634591
Necromancer hard at work here lol
So this is still true right? that yoke is the right one to a bolt on style 4l80e yoke that converts it into a into a sort of slip yoke when you take the oring off? And this allows me to hook up my stock fbody and ujoint drive shaft to the th400 yoke without any conversion joint correct?
Rather than start a new thread I though I would reactive this old thread because the subject matches perfectly.
1998 Camaro with 9 inch moser. Was a 4L60e car. Has aluminum driveshaft 1350 joints.
Have installed the 4L80e without converter and flexplate for test fitting purposes sitting on trans mount. Have not checked drive-line angle yet.
Very happy with fit. Lots of room at cooler lines. Actually tighter on drivers side. Tranny "ears" no issue (forward exhaust for turbo). The usual tweak required for the electric plug.
My question pertains to the appropriate yoke.
My 4L80e has fully splined output shaft, no "O" ring.
The length of spline is 5.37 inches with about 0.7 inches extending past the seal.
There is 3 inches from the driveshaft U Joint centerline to the seal face.
Looks like a 6.94 inch Spicer yoke will work. This is the distance from the yoke u joint center-line to the end of the barrel.
03-20-2016, 02:50 PM
4L80E with factory LS1 driveshaft........will it work? 
