Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

Installed my new moser 12 and carbon fiber ds that came with it...posted on here wondering about the ds being too long. But it was only 1/4" longer than stock and I cycled my suspension with it in and didn't seem to have any binding issues. Haven't even driven the car out of my street and heard a terrible screeching and grinding. Noise is definitely coming from the tail shaft... Vid below...thought/suggestions/help




Loud tapping noise is my wedding ring hitting the ds as I turn it....just in case

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

First, there is no bearing in the rear of the trans. It has a bushing that supports the DS yoke. If you want to replace it you need that plus a tailshaft o ring seal. Its not a difficult job but the tailshaft has to be removed.

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

Thanks 01ssreda, I'm planning on replacing them tomorrow.

Would the ds being too long cause the bushing to fail?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No, its positioned towards the end of the yoke. Some play is normal, nature of the design itself. Its lubed by trans fluid so it is actually a wearable piece to a certain degree. Search trans tail bushing on google for an image of one if you are unfamiliar. If you back the car on ramps I bet you dont even lose any fluid doing it. This may or may not be your issue though.....

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

does the clearance between the end of the yoke and the tailshaft housing look okay?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yes it looks correct.

clinebarger

That squeaking is normal (Low Roller Clutch overrunning), Wore out output bushings are not common on 4th gen LS 4L60E's because they are Teflon Lined.

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

Took the tail shaft off tonight...spun the output shaft without the tail on and it still squeaked. Can definitely hear it coming from inside the trans

The squeaking is definitely not normal, it might be normal if it was very quiet but this when the car is moving was extremely loud. When I noticed it pulling out of my driveway it was louder than my car...and the car is damn loud.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Wow, weird. Guess you have an internal issue?

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

Yeah unfortunately it does seem that it is internal. Trying to get a game plan together for what to do now

Dmjr228

iTrader: (2)

FYI, for anyone removing the tailshaft on a 4L60e:

1. Get the rear of the car up in the air, and place on jack stands. (By doing this, we did not lose any ATF, thanks for the tip 01ssreda4 )
2. Remove the drive shaft (4 nuts on the u joint and it should slide out with a little maneuvering).
3. Using a piece of wood the size of your transmission pan, lightly apply pressure with a jack to the transmission pan to remove the weight off the transmission mount. Keep the transmission supported at all times.
4. Unbolt the transmission mount from the transmission cross member (1 nut, 18mm?).
5. Unbolt transmission cross member from frame and place to the side (4 bolts, 15 mm).
6. Un-clip your speed sensor and O2 sensor.
7. Unbolt tailshaft from transmission (6 bolts, 15 mm) and slide tailshaft towards the rear of the car to clear the output shaft. Remove DS safety loop for clearance if needed.

The car this was performed on had a short style torque arm, carbon fiber DS, Kooks headers and ORY. A factory style torque arm will likely need to be removed. Not sure about stock exhaust clearance either.

To reinstall just repeat in reverse order.

Sorry if I forgot anything, I am going off memory. It was pretty straight forward once we were under there, but I wanted to clear things up because I kept seeing other threads saying "it's just 4 bolts."

mrvedit

Thank you for detailing the tailshaft removal process.

I would like to add that I recall a recent thread where the OP continue to have a tailshaft leak even after replacing the rear seal. We believed that his driveshaft was indeed a bit long. Looking at your picture, that may be the case here too. Remember that under acceleration the rear end will try to move forward with respect to the car, push the drive shaft forward. A full torque tube will great reduce the movement between the rear end and the trans, but it sounds like you many not have a full torque tube. Also, under acceleration the rear end will twist from a typical negative 2* pinion angle to a positive pinion angle which will also move the driveshaft forward.

Not saying this is the case in your situation, just saying it is something to consider when measuring/checking driveshaft length.

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the input mrvedit, when I got the rear I did measure it and all together (including the slip yoke) the new driveshaft was a 1/4" longer than my stock aluminum one.

I did some searching on length of the driveshaft and found some varying results, can anyone confirm the correct length?

I will pull the ds tonight and post a picture of it with a tape measure next to it for reference.


appreciate all the help guys!

Z28boy2000

iTrader: (5)

Dropped the trans this past weekend. Drained the fluid and it looked pretty good no chunks of anything in it, but it definitely had a metallic sheen to it. Getting it over to the shop tonight for some examination