StolenFox

So I've ordered my rebuild kit and need to figure out what tools are "must have" and where to obtain them. The Kent-Moore stuff is ridiculously overpriced (especially for one time use) so I am looking at options. Has anyone rented these tools or built your own. I have no problem building fixtures as I did with my trans repair mount:




Raw, unfinished.




Painted and in use.

Any tips for tooling, fixtures and seal install / resizing procedures would be appreciated!

S.F.

L92 OLDS

Nice mount. My buddy that builds transmissions for a living uses a bucket and a flexplate lol.

Ratdaddy60

I would take the 4TH clutch housing assembly to a local transmission shop and have them to assemble that part.

LSswap

Must have:



Convert welding clamp to:




be able to drop final assembly into case.







Lip seal tool from feeler guage and brake line

I've used this tool for lip seals, even 4th gear with some patience and effort.





direct and forward spring compressor




nice to have but not a requirement.

I use an old rolling computer cabinet as a multipurpose workbench and transmission disassembly bench.
It has a hole punched in the center, at the lowest point, for transmission fluid to fall through.
Under the hole is a bucket to collect the old fluid.
I can't imagine the mess taking apart a transmission over a catch pan.

StolenFox

Hey, "whatever works" right? Thanks for the kind word regarding my work.

Strongly considering doing just that. Might be the safest route....

I have one of those, hopefully not too big. How wide are the jaws when closed?

What thickness feeler gauge?

Could I persuade you to send me some dimensions? Specifically the circumference of the "circle" that the hex bolt fingers make?

Funny thing is, I have a table made specifically for disassembly of automotive components at work. I'd love to use it but I'm out of room in the garage and it's pretty big. I'll probably get creative with some poly sheeting to direct the fluid down into the catch pan.

S.F.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I've had great luck with the mylar circles for installing seals. Aren't you guys worried about tearing them with a metal seal tool?

Home Depot had these big Rubermaid containers with a yellow top that has a deep tray built in. Worked great for keeping parts in order and fluid in place.

I used Irwin clamps and sockets to compress the pistons.

I wish I used a clamp to raise and lower assemblies, my fingers were hurting for days after reassembly.

StolenFox

I am VERY concerned with tearing the seals from using metal tools. Please tell me more about the "mylar circles" you used.

Thanks!
S.F.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Google transtec lip wizard. It wont go to a tranny **** site, I promise. Its the green plastic circle that comes with rebuild kits. They work great.

StolenFox

Just bought one off eBay for $5 shipped. Thanks for the tip! What is everyone using to resize the o-rings? I've seen where Jake's mentions using electrical tape but I can't find a pics or explanation of the process.

S.F.

98CayenneT/A

Here is a random picture but this is what I did also with my 4l60e. Just wrap the Teflon seal tight with electrical tape and leave it until install. I wrapped my seals lightly with electrical tape to prevent damage then snugged hose clamps on them like the picture.

StolenFox

Did you lube the seal prior to the Teflon or put the tape on backwards so it doesn't stick to the seal?

thanks!

S.F.

98CayenneT/A

Sticky side on the seal and wrapped it with no lube.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I installed the seals with petrolatum and used a cut spray paint can cap and a hose clamp. The key is to not tighten is all the way at first. 2-3 steps of tightening gets it good, just make sure they are in the grove.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I got a killer deal on Ebay for the KM tools, makes it easy, esp for the 4th clutch
I have a small heavy duty stool, I bored a hole in it, pulled the tail shaft off and stood it up to rem the guts
Pulling the pump was the hardest, I screwed a couble, 3/8 I think, into the bolt holes with a chain, even it comes out

clinebarger

I know we all have different ways of doing things, But.....You don't have to drop the Center Support & Sun Gear Shaft in with the Output & Reaction Carriers, Output, & Main Shaft.

Just drop the Carriers in by grasping the Main Shaft with the Torrington on top of the Sungear (Like shown)
Install the Fretting Ring, Drop in the Center Support with the Thrust Washer stuck in it's groove with Transjel, Turn the OutPut Shaft & the Center Support will engage the Lo Roller Clutch & drop down into place, Then you can drop in the Sun Gear Shaft, Never had an issue with the Torrington on top of Sun Gear not centering itself on the Center Support or any other issues doing this way.

clinebarger

How many times have you guys tore down a 4L80E and found hardened 4th clutch piston seals? I see more torn lip seals from not having the lip seal tool.
If you do not have the tool, Just drain the fluid out of the bleed orifice.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Yep, mine was a low mile unit so I left them alone. I actually talked to my trans guy and he doen't mess with them either but has never seen them fail. It's a little hacky but that tool is just way too expensive.

StolenFox

Or should be!

Partial disassembly today, going to do each sub-assembly one at a time as part of the rebuild process.




Valve body off.




Sub assembles out

StolenFox

Was this snap ring was improperly installed from the factory or previous rebuild?




Thrust washer plate is wearing grooves in the case. Will this be ok?




Closer view of groove.




Looks like a lot of heat buildup here.

S.F.

jlaudioholic

iTrader: (1)

Heres a tool I would like to add to the list. I gound down a round punch at an angle. Helps get out bushings no problem. The sun gear shaft and output shaft bushings were hard to remove with regular punches and chisles. Especially the output shaft as its in a blind hole. This worked great in a matter of seconds. I read that "cape" chisles work great too, could not find those locally. You want to collapse the bushing in itself and then pull it out with pliers or a seal puller.