SSilentButDeadly

Anyone here swapped from a 3500 stall to a 4000 stall?

Is the price difference betwen the TCi and the Yank products really worth it?

What does the average F-Body with a 4000 stall, headers, and sticky tires run? Mid 12s? Low 12s?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

If you going to step up to the YTP 4200, make the switch. Otherwise stay with your 3500

Colonel

I made that swap and went from 1.61s to 1.55s. However, I increased my HP too so it's hard to say exactly what did what. I'd say my biggest gain was in shift extension. I went from ~4900 to ~5350 which was what I needed with my setup.

Stone0fFire

what in the???
colonel what rpm does your trans shift?
are you shifting much higher than stock?
is that why i am not getting similar results?
my trans shifts at ~6000rpm, stock,
and the rpms drop to like 4700rpm!
the yank SS4000 is giving me the same shift extention as the Midwest 3400/2.0
that, and around town i have to give it around 3600rpms to get moving.

is this how its supposed to behave?

Colonel

If you're giving it 3600 to get moving then you must have a problem. Are you sure that's not a bit of an exaggeration? My converter requires no more than 3000 to get going at a REALLY good pace. Only about 2000 if you're driving Mrs Daisy. At 3600 I'd be zooming through traffic.

I shift at 6600-6700. That makes a difference. I had the same shift points with the TCI 3500.

samz28

6089 -> 4600 = tci ssf 3500/2.5STR

why i think its better for a "NON CAM" bolton car. not the best SE for a camming ls1.

interesting that the SS line is so similar in SE

Stone0fFire

then i guess i have a problem.
but ive had a feeling
this car has always been a lemon.
i think i need tuning.
maybe the trans is selecting the wrong gear?
like.. its going to higher gears sooner than it should?
or isnt downshifting as i think it should?

on second thought, the SE sounds about right.
if you shift at 6600 and end up at ~5350,
thats -1250rpm
if i shift at 6000, -1250rpm leaves me at my **** poor 4750rpm,
which sounds about accurate..
looks like i need some work done.

im just disappointed
cause i thought i would get better SE going from a midwest 3400/2.0 to a yank ss4000.
i guess that 2.6STR is pretty bad for the SE huh?

Rick01SS

Colonel, did you move from a TCI 3500 to the SS4000? Did you go from 1.61 to 1.55 with the same setup other than the TC swap?

Colonel

I went from the TCI 3500 to the SS4000 but I also added a heads/cam package. I swapped converters because I wanted a shift extension of at least 5250 to match the new cam. I chose the SS converter because I knew it would do this and I wanted to remain as close to the streetability of the 3500 as possible.

I made only 1-2 trips (I think it was 1 but I can't remember exactly) to the track with the SS4000. I feel sure I can pull those 1.55 60ft times down a little bit with more practice.

Elite_Hot_Rod

You shift at 6600 to 6700 RPM on the street?

Rick01SS

He's talking about his redline. That's where the car shifts when he's got it floored.

The shift extension is when the car shifts into a higher gear, the RPMs don't drop below 5250.

I've been thinking about getting my ST3500 restalled to a 3800 or 4000. Maybe I'll just sell it and put in a SS4000.

bluecmaro96

colonel, i heard you swear by tci, if tci is so good why did you go to yank? i want a tc but dont have 800+ for a yank, will tci give me decent results? should i get ddf3500 or 3800/

Colonel

Blue, I've had many Yanks and two TCI's. It used to be that Yank and Vig were the only games in town for the LS1. However, nowadays TCI is kickin' some butt too. The reason that I went with the SS4000 in my Z28 was because I was trying to get better shift extension than the TCI 3500 gave (that was the AWESOME converter that the SS4000 replaced) but I was trying to give up as little streetability as possible in doing so. The 21 blade stator of the SS line is supposed to maintain a little more streetability for a given stall speed. IMO, an SS4000 should be very comparable to the TCI 3800 in terms of shift extension and drivability.

My 'Vette has a TCI 3000 that I absolutely LOVE for a daily driver. This is the car that I currently drive the most (11,000 miles since June.)

2001 White Ws6

iTrader: (1)

Are you serious? I'm looking at a SS3800 or SS4000 to replace my MW 3400 2.0 converter some time in the future. I also have thought about the Yank PT converters. I think with my MW 3400 the RPMs drop to around 4300-4500rpms on the shifts.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Your shift extension will depend a lot on the engine
torque at your shift-to point; they play off. A peaky
output motor may have a lower shift extension RPM
(just what it doesn't need). Also if you have TM on
then the torque-cut will let it fall further into the
hole and have to climb back out, vs staying at high
torque and having the flywheel momentum + torque
push it all (the RPM "stretch") onto the converter.

boomcase

I had a TCI 3800 that kevin winstead did for me, shift extension was about 4900 to 5000rpm (according to factory tach) with boltons and 216/220 cam with 342s and 26 by 10.5 ET streets I was able to cut high 1.5s , great converter with really good street manors... ,

nitrorocket

iTrader: (12)

To give my example. I went directly from a TCI sf3500(real stall was about 3800) to a Hipster 9" with a 5100 stall. Not only did the car drive 100 times better with the better converter, my 60' dropped a tenth. No more mph though, I think maybe I am pushing through the converter a little bit, I shift at 7000 rpm.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

Is there a simple way to figure out how much of a shift extension is required for your setup?

Like, by looking at peak hp, or shift rpm? a bit confused

PREDATOR-Z

Look at your dyno graph, from that you'll be able to determine your optimum shift points, (the ones that keep the maximum power between shifts), then you base your stall extentions according to that.

Expl: Shift at 6600 rpm, following gear drop at 5500 rpm then your shift extensions should be in 5500 range (This is just an example)

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

you dont shift during a dyno pull. how will you determine shift points by that?