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So no one is going to listen to me anyway, thats usually how it works.
Why did you buy that sprag? I'd bet a few hundred that your core trans has a roller clutch and you need a drum which you could buy off ebay for about the same price. If you buy a performance direct drum it's going to have a sprag and race.
The TCI kit, has bushings.....TWO the pump and tail housing.
I'd also bet money you could reuse your steels.
I payed a non sponsor $204 for Raybestos frictions, moulded pistons, gasket and sealing ring kit, transgo high temp ring kit, bushings (all of them), washers, filter. All name brand. AND FOR A 2006 4L80E!
Your TCI kit is a refresh kit, no internal bushings, no washers, no torrington bearings, etc.
Not trying to be a dick but someone has to speak the truth and not get all excited over pictures of boxes and parts you don't even need.
Well, you may very well be right. Admittedly, I know very little about transmissions....and I may have purchased a kit that's doesn't fit my needs the best. Often times when a person is just beginning to learn about a certain piece of a car and how it works....what's needed etc...they tend to make mistakes. But then they learn, they get wiser. Now with that said, you....as well as myself don't have a clue as to what is needed or not needed with this particular transmission yet since it has yet to be opened. Again, maybe a rookie mistake....but in an attempt to keep cost within reason I decided to forego the drum. If you haven't noticed, I've come to this section with my hat in my hand....asking for help with this as I have no prior experience.
So no one is going to listen to me anyway, thats usually how it works.
Why did you buy that sprag? I'd bet a few hundred that your core trans has a roller clutch and you need a drum which you could buy off ebay for about the same price. If you buy a performance direct drum it's going to have a sprag and race.
The TCI kit, has bushings.....TWO the pump and tail housing.
I'd also bet money you could reuse your steels.
I payed a non sponsor $204 for Raybestos frictions, moulded pistons, gasket and sealing ring kit, transgo high temp ring kit, bushings (all of them), washers, filter. All name brand. AND FOR A 2006 4L80E!
Your TCI kit is a refresh kit, no internal bushings, no washers, no torrington bearings, etc.
Not trying to be a dick but someone has to speak the truth and not get all excited over pictures of boxes and parts you don't even need.
And yes, you are being a dick. But I forgive you, as I've been a dick before around here myself. So, it's all good.
Awesome thanks man! So I'm looking at around $2300ish for everything I need not including the trans itself and the interior pieces?
Roughly. But you may be money ahead finding someone on here that's looking to sell one. I almost wish I had done that. Would probably save you some cash. And the $2300 would cover your interior pieces, unless you went all out on it.
Thanks for filling me in. I have no experience with autos at all so some of the stuff you posted I wouldn't know if it came with a new trans I would buy or if I had to buy it separately. I'll probably talk with a sponsor when I'm ready to make sure I don't overspend.
Thanks for filling me in. I have no experience with autos at all so some of the stuff you posted I wouldn't know if it came with a new trans I would buy or if I had to buy it separately. I'll probably talk with a sponsor when I'm ready to make sure I don't overspend.
I hear ya. I may have missed by $100 or so. But I can fix that by returning the pieces to summit. I've used Hydramatics before, but building one is definitely a new experience. Will try and share everything I can during build, so people can see what to do, as well as what not to do....as well as what to buy....and what not to buy. But one thing I've seen over and over is.....don't skimp on the converter.
Finally got motivated and figured I would disassemble the transmission tonight, went to rent a puller to get the input shaft yolk off. Didn't go very well. Guess I will try some penetrating oil tomorrow. And btw, if anyone is looking for a cheap...but effective way to heat up their gar
age, I highly endorse the double headed propane unit from the freight $70 and well worth it.
Awesome thanks man! So I'm looking at around $2300ish for everything I need not including the trans itself and the interior pieces?
Just to put in my two cents. I have about 2,300 in with the FTI Transmission lvl3 rmvb and there SR stall, Hurst pistol grip shifter and miscellaneous items tranny lines, tranny mount spacer and m6 crossmember. Still need to get the drive shaft done.
Just to put in my two cents. I have about 2,300 in with the FTI Transmission lvl3 rmvb and there SR stall, Hurst pistol grip shifter and miscellaneous items tranny lines, tranny mount spacer and m6 crossmember. Still need to get the drive shaft done.
No I got my built for a nitrous application. But you can call them and talk to them and get the converter for your application for whatever you're doing. Whatever shifters you decide to get PM Just a Fool he's on here on Tech he makes brackets to mount the shifter in the stock location. I'm currently using his bracket installed it today it's pretty awesome. Shout out to him
You can see the bracket in the picture and then in the other picture I have where it's mounted I'll take some better pictures tomorrow. I got the trans mounted with the cross tonight but I got tired and I got cold I'll try to finish up tomorrow. Might even swing by Harbor Freight for that propane heating tank LOL
I'd pull the pump first, thats just me. Behind the pump you see the most interesting things. All of the clutches, the wear will give you an idea of mileage. You'll see the direct drum and can check to see if it's a roller clutch or sprag type.
Don't know if you know, but to get the pump out remove all the bolts. You will see two threaded holes in the pump, those are for 3/8-16 bolts. I use 1 1/4" long bolts and a 12" crow bar. Thats what the holes are for.
I'd pull the pump first, thats just me. Behind the pump you see the most interesting things. All of the clutches, the wear will give you an idea of mileage. You'll see the direct drum and can check to see if it's a roller clutch or sprag type.
Don't know if you know, but to get the pump out remove all the bolts. You will see two threaded holes in the pump, those are for 3/8-16 bolts. I use 1 1/4" long bolts and a 12" crow bar. Thats what the holes are for.
Thanks for the info. Only reason I'm focused on the yolk, is so I can stand the unit up and pull everything out of it...of course after I pull the valvebody and center support bolt. Figured I would get rid of the nuisance first (yolk), plus it has to happen either way.
Just to put in my two cents. I have about 2,300 in with the FTI Transmission lvl3 rmvb and there SR stall, Hurst pistol grip shifter and miscellaneous items tranny lines, tranny mount spacer and m6 crossmember. Still need to get the drive shaft done.
Ok, so I got it tore down and things were decent I guess. I guess I should have tore it down before I ordered the parts. The direct drum has no sprag. The direct, forward and intermediate clutches were so so, some were brital and fell apart. Some of the steels look like they may have seen some heat at some point. The low/reverse band looks fine, but I might go ahead and replace it since I'm already here. Will be spending some quality time cleaning the case next week before the build.
Ok, so this transmission does not have a sprag on the forward drum...but has a roller clutch on the reaction carrier. Is there an upgrade for it? And the output shaft is much larger than the t56, it would seem to be a no brainer to keep the big output shaft, and just get a bigger driveshaft yolk to accommodate it....but just want to be absolutely sure instead of assuming.
Ok, so this transmission does not have a sprag on the forward drum...but has a roller clutch on the reaction carrier. Is there an upgrade for it? And the output shaft is much larger than the t56, it would seem to be a no brainer to keep the big output shaft, and just get a bigger driveshaft yolk to accommodate it....but just want to be absolutely sure instead of assuming.
You mean it does not have a sprag on the direct drum.
Has a roller clutch on the on the reaction carrier, most do, except 1964 and 1965 th400's. I used to run a 36 element sprag there, found a low mileage reaction carrier. Usually 1965 and low mileage don't exist these days. I don't know that the roller clutch there is a high failure item.
You're right about keeping the 32 spline output. You're going to need a counter bored yoke (not yolk). Makes no sense to track down a 28 spline output shaft and extension housing.
12-09-2016, 03:35 PM
