youboyslikemexico?

Finishing up the LQ4 build in my 98 Z28 and have been curious as to how everyone drives their A4.
Bought the car with a freshly installed RPM Level 5 previous owner had done by RPM. Has a 3200 Stall also. I am wondering how you all shift your build autos? Do you just leave them on OD and let them work? All of my previous cars have been M6 but for all out power I wanted the A4, when running from a roll do you manually downshift or just hammer on 3 and let it downshift? Same in corners do you downshift manually? I have had many 60e on my trucks and downshifted when needed manually but im new to built autos and stalls and dont want to harm it but want maximum performance.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

When racing I put it in 3rd (not overdrive) and let it do the work.

In corners I often manually shift so it's where I want and less likely to randomly downshift at a bad time.

youboyslikemexico?

Alright thats what I typically do, i rarely put my tracks in OD unless im steady highway. After this I found RPM FAQ that said 4-2 downshift is bad.
Thanks!

mrvedit

Manually downshifting before you go WOT is going to let any trans live longer. WOT downshifts are always hard. The 4->2 is especially hard on the 4L60e because the the 3/4 clutch will begin to slip as it is released and such slippage will quickly wear it out.
Personally I do hundreds of 4->2 WOT downshifts a year, but then I freshen my trans every year or so and the 3/4 clutch always shows wear.

jhshnh

So if I'm cruising in overdrive and decide to hit it, do you recommend downshifting manually to third? Or manually yo third then manually to second?

mrvedit

If you expect the trans to only downshift from 4th to 3rd, a WOT downshift isn't all that bad.
But if you expect the downshift to go from 4th to 2nd, then a manual downshift to 2nd might be warranted before your go WOT.
A few 4->2 WOT downshifts aren't going to wear out the trans, but hundreds do.

jhshnh

Ok. What about downshifting from 4th to 3rd, then got to WOT and let the computer downshift to 2nd? Is that good?

98CayenneT/A

The 3-4 clutches are engaged in 3rd and 4th.
A 3-2 wot downshift will also cause the 3-4 to slip a bit like explained on the 4-2 wot downshift.

jhshnh

Glad I stumbled across this thread. I put in a Performabuilt lvl 2 last year, and I want to take care of it. Great advise guys.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Personally I do not see an issue with manual shifting , From a hydraulic standpoint the only things that change are the application of the overrun clutch and the application in manual low of the low reverse clutch and in fact this can actually help to protect and strengthen the low roller clutch.
If the unit is running the sonnax HD 2-3 valve then the overun clutch can help with holding on the input sprag also as it keeps it on in all gears but the overdrive position.
However in absence of this valve it can be problematic as its only on in the d3 position 3rd gear and applies during the 2-3 shift this has been noted to delay the 2-3 shift in the d3 position when shifting automatically due to hydraulics demands.

But my opinion overall is manual shifting does no harm ,

youboyslikemexico?

Appreciate all the great responses. The knowledge is invaluable.

mrvedit

PerformaBuilt (Frank?) is discussing up-shifts and the recommendation of using the Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve in conjunction with the drag racing with the shifter in [D3]. Or just manually shifting if you prefer.
Many of the previous posts assumed you were "roll racing" and therefore recommended that you manually downshift instead of having the A4 perform e.g. 4->2 downshifts under WOT.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I would not suggest roll racing from D4 to me d3 would be a better choice to shift down from , Plus in my experience its feels much better from d3.

mrvedit

Sorry, but isn't that what we are saying - don't roll race from D4/OD, but instead downshift manually before going WOT?

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Yes it would indeed be better to do the downshift before getting on the throttle though you would need to make sure the downshift had completed before actually standing on it as the pressure rise may not he high enough fast enough and slip the band momentarily , No worries of this on a shift to low one as the low roller would be holding and the low reverse clutch only acting as support, Though all in all unless your doing this a lot probably not of great consequence .

tberg725

This is a good read, so I dont mean to jack the thread, but if I was going to race at the track and let my trans do all the work should I leave the car in D and let it run threw and not put it in ODO?

mrvedit

While not unanimous, the majority suggestion with a stock trans is to leave it in OD/D4 and not D3.
With a well-built performance trans, it probably doesn't make much difference.
With a built trans with the Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve you definitely want to race in D3.

Here are some threads on the subject:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-drive-od.html
(Be sure to read the entire thread because it starts with incorrect info due to an error in the ATSG manual, but then gets corrected and confirmed.)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ure-flare.html

This is why I recommend installing the Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve when installing a shift kit. (PerformaBuilt mentions it in #10 above)

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

MRVedit hit lots of good points, but this above is what my trans builder recommended to me, NEVER race in OD, use the extra support of the overrun clutch. But, I've developed a few things I like to do. Remember 1 is 1, 2 in 2, D3 is 1,2,3, and D4 is 1,2,3,4. So we know the lowest two start and end in the same gear, the top two allow auto shifting. So, that being said, if I need to do a slow roll say 20-50mph, I manually bring the shifter to 2 and ride second gear until we take off, same would go for a curving freeway on ramp or any time you would want to accelerate from those ranges. Once WOT, immediately go to D3, this will put the trans back into auto shifting mode and the 2/3 will happen as planned. If you try to manually shift this, there is a delay and it is very difficult to get it right, so send the trans to auto mode the minute your foot goes to the floor. If you need a really low roll say 5-20mph, and you want to start in first, go to 1 but you WILL have to manually shift this one on time, which isnt hard to do because it shifts almost exactly when you move the lever. I've never tried wot 1 straight to D3, that may work passing up 2 quickly but I have never tried it. So from 5mph in 1, go WOT, shift around 6k or whatever, then once second is engaged and pulling go ahead and flick to d3 so the 2/3 is an auto shift. Also, anytime I know ahead of time I want to accelerate, say Im jacking with someone on the highway, I pull down to d3 before I start laying into the gas, that allows the clutches to engage and prevents the wot downshift. Actually come to think of it I never WOT downshift, I simply have taught myself to drive without doing it.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Good info ^

I run in OD on the street and will let it downshift to 3 with throttle (but not WOT) if I need more passing speed at 50-60. But I'm going to start using the 2 and D more to preserve the trans.

jhshnh

01ssreda4 is right on the shifting. Exactly what I've experienced.
I have found that when I track the car in overdrive the car wants to shift early into overdrive. It did this with the stock transmission and the Performabuilt. So I run it in 3rd and let the computer shift. It seems spot on everytime.

If I were roll racing as mentioned in earlier posts, I would manually downshift to 3rd to line up with your opponent, then before you go to wot I'd manually downshift to 2nd and allow 2nd to be fully engaged before wot. If you manually downshift to 3rd then let the computer downshift to 2nd when you hit wot, then that split second could cost the race.