stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

i put my trani in my t/a and took it for a ride man was i satisfied with the quality shifted awsome and on a dime, it shifted hard. I thought everything was right I put it on the dyno last night and and i cracked the bell housing from one side to the other. you can run your hand through the crack and touch the floor board through the whole bell housing i am going to take some pics tonight i will show you all if you want to see them. But any way what can i do????? i am sending the trani back to Rossler and getting a ultra bell put on it this time. But what can be the problem?? i want to solve this it is a pain in my *** and a hole is being burnt in my pocket. i checked the air gap btween my converter and the flex plate, checked to make sure the pilot on the converter is in the crank. that was done right what is next?? what should i check next?? PLEASE A TRANSMISSION PRO HELP ME OUT LET ME KNOW WHAT MY PROBLEM IS
any info would be appreciated
Thanks Richard

GeorgeC

If you're having an ultra-bell installed, that should fix your breakage issues... I've never seen one break personally.

Improper pinion angle is one sure fire way to crack a bellhousing, if you haven't checked that out on your car. The TH350/400 bellhousings were known for doing just what yours did, though, without much help from outside sources.

DERTY

You very well could have bound up the tranny when you installed it. How did you set the tailshaft height with the trans cross member? Did you loosely bolt the bellhousing on before mounting the cross member?

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

i bolted the trani up then bolted the cross member up then made a 3/4" spacer put that between the poly trani mount ant the 6 speed crossmember. one thing i did notice is that when i installed the trani cross member under the trani i slipped the the spacer between the mount and c member and there was still a space b/w the mont and member should this be this way?? i didn't have to jack the trani up to put the spacer in.... so what should i do next time i am sending it out on monday to get fixed.. how do i set the pinion angle and what to set it at??
Thanks For the help
Richard

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

I would look at driveshaft length. Check motor mounts, and trans mount. Also look at the top of the rear cover on the block. There are 3 bolts that sometimes make contact with the bell housing and they hold the bellhousing away from the block. You can call me and I can describe it better for you. 281-290-8899

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

it is a ugly break i cant believe something that thick can crack like that. boils my blood. its a never ending story. i can write a book by now

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

i had spohn build the d/s they said they didnt need any measurements it went in fine and dandy looked fine, stock motor mounts, poly trani mount. i was told that stock motor mounts wouldn't hurt trani might just break motor mounts, they can be wrong what you think

DERTY

A couple things. First it sounds like you did not have the right size spacer in there. There should be no gap at all and it should be a nice fit. You may even have to loosen the crossmember up just a touch to slide it in. If you drew the transmount into the crossmember by cranking it down, you most likely introduced a large amount of stress into the bellhousing. Doing that could cause the converter and flexplate to drive the input shaft at a funky angle. After that, well, who's to say for sure but it sounds pretty reasonable to me.

Second, the bolts Madman is talking about are right here in these pics. You'll see how I modified my ultrabell to accomodate them.

http://www.derty.org/photogallery/de...p?image_id=116

Those notches corrspond to the 4 upper most bolts of the rear cover shown here:
http://www.derty.org/photogallery/de...hp?image_id=96

Here are some more pics.
http://www.derty.org/photogallery/ca....php?cat_id=20

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

so what type of angle should everything be set at?? i was told to ues a 3/4 " spacer should i go bigger??? what do i have to do to prevent this problem from happening next time??

DERTY

Try measuring the distance and using a spacer that will fill the gap. With the trans fully bolted in and the crossmember bolted all the way up it will support itself enough to get that measurement. I believe it should be somewhere closer to 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". But it depends mostly on the motor mounts you are running. The two different versions of solid mounts and the poly mounts that are out there do not necessarily put the motor in the same location. That's why it's easier to measure and make one from scratch. Lowe's carries enough small pieces of steel to make one yourself very easily.

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

so thoes bolts hit on the ultra bell? how will i know where to grind? just look at your pics or put it on tight and see where marks were made on the ultra bell??

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

thats what i will have to do i have a lowes right next to my house i so make a solid block for the spacer or like shims? i also noticed in your pics you have a pic of some bolts what are you trying to show there do i need after market bolts or should i get then???
Thanks Richard

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

also would i need to buy a new concerter or can i keep the one i have

DERTY

Okay, so here's what to do. Basically, without the flexplate on the car and with no converter, line the transmission up. Just take a marker and scribe where the bolts line up. Use a die grinder and carve out a pocket for each bolt.

Lowes sells a variety of stuff. My Lowes had some 1-1/4" rectangular tubing. I then used a 1/4" thick plate to shim it up some more. You could probably find 1-1/2" at a local metal supply shop, Lowes just didn't have it on hand.

You likely will not need a new converter as everything with the ultrabell will line up just the same with the standard bellhousing.

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

ok i will do this also i saw you had pics of 2 bolts side by side on your page what is this?? better trani bolts?? i was also told something about lining the flex plate up right how does it need to go? how do i line everything up i was told something about the pinion angle?

DERTY

Oh yeah, those were the stock bolts (the whiteish colored ones) versus the ARP bolts. Basically the ARP bolts cannot be used with a stock flexplate becuase the shoulder is too big. If you look closely you'll see what I'm talking about.

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

i have a tci flex plate should i get these bolts? when i get the trani back what should i do to insure this problem doesnt occur again?? what should i check and what should i measure? i want to get it right i know i shouldn't have these problems?

stangeater01

iTrader: (125)

well i sent my trani back to rossler and i just got it back $720 later it now is up graded with a ultra bell man this trani looks serious just waiting on my converter to come back.....