seadoo

Do yoiu need to get a tune with a SSF3500, Trans Go kit, and a cooler??? Will it run fine and still give the performace at the track??? Also, how many washer do you all recommend for the Shift Kit.

Thanks... this is for a friends 00 T/A

shaulinmathvader

iTrader: (3)

I also would like tp know. I heard in a magazine about do's and don'ts of an ls1 that anything above 3400 stall needs to be retuned. I am still confirming that myself but I would like someone elses opinion

AK's WS6

From what I have seen around here it's not really a must but there are things that can be adjusted(shift points, lockup and other things) and deleted(TM) to make it perform better. Sorry for the lack of info i'm still learning myself lol. Someone will be able to explain with some more detail........

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

i just put in the ssf3500 with transgo and cooler. i really don't think a tune is completly necessary. the only thing im experiencing is a shorter shift from 1-2 (like 5500-5700rpms) unless i manually shift it just right so it shifts at 6000rpms.

another big problem with my car is it bogs/hesitates a little right when it shifts to 2nd gear. anyone know what this is? i guess i might need a tune but other than the 2 above mentioned things it runs fine, locks up right around 45-50mph.

blkZ28spt

Then that magazine is full of ****. IMO, just about anything BELOW a 3400 stall needs to be returned Trust me/the rest who will post in on this. If you want track performance a 4400 stall converter works well too.

Edit: forgot the original question
The only reason, from what I gather, to need tuning for a new converter is a tweak of the shift requirements. They are based on meeting two clauses: RPM and MPH and both must be met before a shift will take place. Most people, I am pretty sure, that have driven before and after a basic tune say it is much better with. A basic hand held programmer or a basic (as little as $100 anyway) tune should fix that. Some apparently don't have problems without tuning but the bigger you go the higher the chances you will have problems and the worse they could be. I had a basic tune performed at the time mine was installed so I don't know what it's like w/o tune, but with tune it's NIIIIIIIIIIIIICE.

heyitsTaJay

no a tune is not necessary. you can put it in...play with it...then decide if you will need a tune. sometimes part-throttle shift points need to be adjusted, but with that converter you should be fine. if all u have is the converter i would save the money till you "need" a tune so that you can maximize all the mods done


J

Colonel

PCM changes, while often very desirable for drivability, are not necessary. I like to raise part throttle shift points and alter converter lockup points.

4mula

i had my tci tuned. it only cost 100 bucks

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

What? How and where?

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I had a TCI SSF3500/Cooler installed a few weeks ago. I did not install a shift kit. I had to increase the Trans Line Pressure. I also removed the TM. It is much better now. In LS1Edit I put the following in the Base Shift Pressure vs Torque table:

the base shift pressure vs torque put in this
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200 210 220 230 240 250 260 270 280 290 300 310 320
Normal 2nd 0 0 0 0 2 5 8 12 16 19 24 28 32 37 41 45 49 53 56 60 62 64 68 71 74 77 81 84 87 89 91 94 98
Normal 3rd 0 0 0 0 3 7 11 15 20 25 30 34 37 40 42 44 46 47 49 51 53 56 59 62 65 68 71 73 75 77 78 80 82
Normal 4th 0 0 0 2 4 8 12 16 20 22 26 30 34 38 41 45 49 53 58 63 67 71 75 78 82 86 90 94 98 102 104 104 104
Perf. 2nd 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104
Perf. 3rd 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104
Perf. 4th 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104 104


Bill

franny40

i had a ssf3500 and coller installed also, all i did via my predator was raise shift points and adjusted shift pressure and duration, i had TM deleted, the only thing i need to get done is get the idle upped a bit, but that does not bother me much. my wife had to use my car today and she said she could not notice that there was one in there, I told her not to floor it or she would be spinning the tires badly. the driveability is great.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

im thinking about getting rid of torque management. the cheapest "basic tune" i saw was www.ls1speed.com that is 150$.

where can i get a basic tune for 100$? link appreciated.

blkZ28spt

Sorry about throwing in the $100. They offered me a basic tune for $100, but then again I was purchasing the SSF3500, shift kit, cooler, gauge, and BMR SFC from them AND having it all installed. So they already got plenty of $$ from me......Actually, Larry quoted me a specific price, and that is what i paid, but when I looked at the itemized bill the basic tune was not listed.
Extra crap like that...the reason I had them do everything I havn't done myself and will continue doing so.

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

There are a couple of people on this site and LS1 that will do tunes for $100 if you had LS1Edit.

Bill

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

What did you change your part throttle shift points and converter lockup points to? What table in Edit did you change?
Thanks,
Bill

ShadowLightCSU

iTrader: (1)

Not having Edit makes it a lot more expensive

SteveC

I own a 01 Z28 that has 3.73 gears. I had a professional transmission shop (experienced in F bodies) install a Y3000, 2.0 STR converter, along with a Transgo Shift Kit, & TCI flexplate. I experienced the following problems after the install:

1. Idle hunt, @ dead stop idle would fluxuate from 500 to 1300 RPM or stall.
2. From dead stop, on normal driving, vehicle would not move foward, RPM's would slip to 2500 then slam into gear.
3. Going down hill with foot off gas & brake, car would shift back and forth from 3rd to 4 th, would not hold gear.
4. @ freeway speed (65) TC would not lock up.

I had the vehicle professionally dyno tuned by Mike Morgan "e-tune", and he corrected all the above listed problems, plus a few more that existed prior to the change.

He had to dramatically adjust the shift points, & eliminate the Torque Management. He also raised my idle to 700 RPM in gear, and 900 RPM out of gear, among other things.

SteveC

Colonel

"What did you change your part throttle shift points and converter lockup points to? What table in Edit did you change?
Thanks,
Bill"

Oh, I played with it a few times. I couldn't tell you exactly what the numbers were right off the bat. And I'm sure they'll be different for my 'Vette (done with HPTuners) than for my Z28 (done with LS1Edit.)

Start by upping the part throttle shifts (maybe just do the ones below 50%) by about 20% for all shifts. See how you like that and go from there. Be sure you don't end up with anything funny looking (like a higher shift point at 45% than at 55% for example.) You may find that you like it changed more at some throttle positions than at others.

I'd set the converter lockup in 3rd to happen only at low throttle positions (below 12%, for example.) It's irritating to have the converter locking up when under heavy throttle. It's also harder on the converter clutch. Set the release to happen at heavier throttle positions. That way you can really use the lockup to take away the loose feeling.

That's just a few ideas. Exactly how I would program one would depend ALOT on the power characteristics of the engine, the gearing, the converter, and the usage. It's really a trial and error thing to get it just to your liking.