1 BLOWN V8

iTrader: (17)

I was told on more less a stock LS1 car a stall will help very little if at all? Is this true? Input please. Thanks again everyone for all you opinions I do apperciate it very much.

TheHauntedZ28

If you don't have Drag Radials then it's not going to help worth a lick in the sense that you'll stay spinning and just murder the tires. But trust me, with traction IT DOES HELP.

02 wife

I Gotta Get Drag Radials

1jfuddle

iTrader: (7)

I disagree. Even without super sticky tires, it helps with not only shift extention, but getting rid of the notorious dead spot just after the shifts. Also, if it is driven right and you get the right converter, even on stock tires I think the benefits would be huge. And just one more, I prefer the feel of a car with a converter to one without. It just rides better IMHO.

68birdls1

iTrader: (46)

if you have an auto and you want to race, get a stall! should be one of the first mods! most people lose.3-.6 seconds in the 1/4! that is a lot of time for one mod. but once you get that stall, the tires will get eaten alive every time you get on it. no traction as well, better get some sticky tires to go with it.

but to answer what i think your question is, yes the stock stall speed is very low, maybe 2000 rpm's but i dont even think it is that high.

shaulinmathvader

iTrader: (3)

1800 ist the stock stall. but i agree. u will need traction for the stall to help. but once u do get traction, look out you will be in a whole new category of racing. I tried running with some cheap radials after converter and it sucked some much I lost a full second. But with slicks and i little bit of VHT, I was giving Nos, H/C, and SC guys a run for there money, Most of them I beat.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

A high stall torque converter is by far the best bang for buck mod on an A4. You will need DR's to help otherwise your call will be harder to launch from a standing start.

68birdls1

iTrader: (46)

i think the only drag radials i have seen work with a big stalled a4 are the mickey thompson drag radials. but i have heard that auto's like the et streets a lil bit more than drag radials

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

YES.


Automatic owner's rule of thumb for mods:
1) Converter....go big the first time.
2) Headers
3) Cam...you can go big now since you have the stall.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Not necessarily true. Depends on the converter and hp. On my older setup I actually hooked better on Nittos compared to ET Streets.

blue2000Z28

Dont know this guy ^ but I have read some of his postes and he is right. Most people are going to tell you that 4000 is to big. Hell somebody told me 3500 was huge. I listend. So i didnt get a stall. Now i am going to go big, probley a 4200TCI, Cam it, and get some ET Streets. Dont listen to people that say the driveability sucks. They are wrong. I rode in a Head/Cam/COnverter(3500) car the other day. Couldnt even tell he had a converter. UNITL HE GAVE IT HELL. If i were you get a BIG stall, I know that somepeople are going to say they suck, and so on, but if i were you, i am in the same posiiton you are, I would look at a converter NOW!

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

TCI SSF3500 here, I love it, and will possibly be going bigger when I get my MS3. In my opinion the 3500 is the smallest I'd ever have in a car of mine. I had it when I just had bolt ons, headers, lid, filter, etc. And on a set of Yokahama ES100s I could do just fine on the street. Sure it spun more than before, but it was still faster down the strip than the stock converter. You gotta learn how to progressively "roll" into the throttle on the launch, and you'll be surprised how quick you'll be!

offaxis

iTrader: (19)

Get yourself a converter and a set of nittos . They will provide more gains than any other N/a mod you can do to your auto. BTW anything under 3200 stall you will be changing out within a year for a looser one . So dont waste your time.

Lafngas98Z

iTrader: (1)

I can get some pretty good deals on TCI converters if you are interested.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

I went from 13.3 to 12.6 with a converter and tires being the only chanages.

My only mod then was a lid.

get at least a 4,000 the 1st time.

Kenafin_02TA

I've got a TCS 4200...if I was driving in city traffic everyday I wouldn't want it...only because I'd be visiting the gas station all too often. But while I do drive her in traffic everyday..it isn't city traffic...and I love it. 4200 might be too big for some people for a car that's drove everyday..but get something...it helps a lot. I've seen 3600 recommended a lot for daily drivers...but I'd say definitely go at least mid-3000's..if not higher. And if you have anyone near you that has a car with a stall...go for ride..see how it is...and then pick from there what size you want. You won't regret putting one in..the only regret you might have is not going big enough.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

A converter on a stock car will make up for crappy
factory shiftpoints and profile w/ pedal. It will also
give you more rear wheel torque off the line and
at shift flash (depending on where the shift is set).
Maybe more torque multiplication than you need on
stock tires. Everybody says "go big" but there are
two elements to it, stall speed and STR. A street-
tire car probably doesn't need the 2.5 STR that just
happens to come as part of the combo on a TCI
3500 converter. Something like 2.0 I think (having
a 3000/2.2 myself and losing traction with ease
anywhere in 1st, and the 1-2) is more appropriate.
If you have more torque and more gear you need
less STR. But the cars do love the wakeup from the
stall speed. Having a converter that -matches- the
car's powerband will give you a pedal-proportional
torque / thrust. One too tight will hold you bogged
down where all the pedal gives you no more torque.
One too loose will have you paddlewheeling at high
RPM just to get going. Too bad TCI doesn't make a
3500/2.0 with a decent lockup clutch. The closest
I've seen, to what I think is an ideal converter, is
the Midwest 3400/2.0 (which I saw dyno curves on
and it had a freakishly high efficiency).

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

I like my Midwest 3500/2.0, which is probably the identical converter to that.

My stock shift points are alright too. I just have to give it ~1/2 throttle quick to get it to jump from 4th to 3rd when getting on the freeway. It's a nice feeling and the passing power is great. I also recommend a shift kit and a trans cooler. I have a Trans-Go with 2 washers. Nice quick firm shifts. I did the installs myself and I have about $800 total in doing the converter/shift kit/cooler/guage swap.


For a first converter, get something around a 3500 stall. You wont be disappointed. Keep in mind the Vigilante ratings are low...3200 is really about 3600.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

I agree, go big is overrated. That being said, yes, you have everything to gain even with street tires, I ran 12's for the first time on street tires with my converter, it was impossible before hand with my minimal mods

1 BLOWN V8

iTrader: (17)

Where can I get one of the converters you are talking about? website or a certain person to talk to?