jm8881

iTrader: (4)

Sorry I don't have acuall pictures of some things, I'll do my best to describe them.

Tools I used:

Dremel with steel reinforced cutting bit
4" Angle grinder with cutting disk
Phillips screw driver
Socket and open end wrench
Wire cutters
Wire crimps
Vise

I purchased a B&M mega shifter for a 73-81 f-body (B&M part no. 80694). Brand new these are around $160 but I bought mine used on ebay for $68.

The first thing you'll need to do is remove the upper console. There are 2 screws under the change holder. Remove these and the console becomes loose. You'll also have to remove the clip holding the stock shifter **** on. I used a thin flathead screwdriver to pry the clip out. Now lift your console off. You'll also have to unclip the cigarette lighter and the two wires leading to the gear indicator bulb.

Now you can see the guts of the overly complicated stock shifter. There is a linkage on the very left. This is used to actually shift the trans, remove it entirely from the shifter and the transmission. One over to the right is another linkage connected to a black cylinder. This stops you from shifting from park unless your foot is on the brake. The last linkage is part of something that I haven't figured out yet. I just removed it and set it asside.

There is also a black box on the right of the shifter. This is your neutral saftey switch.

Next you'll have to remove the lower part of the console. There are two bolts in the bottom of your console storage compartment. There is also two bolts at the end of the console on both sides under where the radio is. Now you can remove the lower console. You will probably have to pull the parking brake all the way up to lift the console. You'll also have to unclip the power outlet just like the cigarette lighter.

Now take the lower mounting plate you got with the B&M shifter and line it up with the holes for the stock shifter. Now you can get a good idea of how to bend and trim the tabs on it to fit your stock mounting location. When you get the plate bent up and fit correctly you can test fit it. Make sure it's relitively straight. Now you'll have to move the mounting holes on the B&M shifter plate forward 1/2" - 3/4".



Now you can bolt the shifter up to the plate and install it into the car. Mark where the hole will be for the shift cable and drill it. I drilled it large and put a length of about 2" of rubber hose to keep the shift cable from rubbing on the metal. Now run your shift cable through the hole and to the right and down and around to your trans. It's a little difficult to go to the right but you have to to get it hooked up right. There are instructions included with the shifter to tell you how to bolt it to your trans.

Remove the gear indicator from the upper console.

Now that the shifter is installed into the car, put the lower console back on. Then test fit the upper console and check for where you will have to trim. Most of the trimming will be done in the ash tray area. You'll also have to open the area where the shifter sticks through. This is a trial and error process so be patient. Also note where and how much you will have to trim off the shifter.



Now that your shifter fits through and the upper console fits it's time to mount the gear indicator. First you'll have to cut it off the B&M chrome plate.



Look under your upper console, you'll see where the stock one was mounted. You want to get the indicator centered and mounted using whatever means nessessary. I bent two little metal srips into little Z's to mount it. This also takes a lot of trial and error to get it just right.

Now put it all back together and make sure everything moves freely. We are almost at the end. Pull the console back off and take a look at the stock neutrall safty switch. There are 6 wires coming from it:

The purple and dark green are for the nss.
The brown and light green are for the back up lights.
And the last two (I forget the colors) are for the rear hatch release. It will only open if you are in park but if you connect it to an aftermarket nss it will blow the fuse so I just connected them together.

After you get your wires straight, test them out. Make sure the car is in Park and try to start it. If it does, turn it off and try to start it in Neurtral (set the parking brake please) it should start. And then try to start it in gear such as OD. If it doesn't start or even try then you have hooked the NSS up correctly. Now put the gear selector in Reverse with the key to on but not running and go and check if your reverse lights are on. Are they? Good Jorb!

Now all you have to do is wire in the gear indicator lamp and then install the upper console. Everything should be in working order except for the fact that there is now an ugly shifter sticking through the console with no boot. This is all up to you. You can do like I did and sew up a boot and finish it off like this:



or make up something on your own.

Hopefully this helped.

monsterls1

iTrader: (8)

Looks awesome, it doesn't look like it sticks up that high.Is that on a 4l60e?

jm8881

iTrader: (4)

It is a 4L60-E. To give an idea of height, the shift boot is about 3" tall.

On another note, I'm thinking about grinding that lip down to almost nothing and raising the boot up just over the lip.

CWallen

iTrader: (12)

Excellent write-up. Is there anyway a round shift **** can be put on these. The MBA engraved **** would look killer if it is able to fit on there. Is it just a threaded shaft for the shift **** or what?

jm8881

iTrader: (4)

That handle just screws onto the shifter. When you remove the handle the is a threaded portion on the top of the shifter. I don't know what size it is or the threads though.

vilkata

A quick way to figure this out would be to measure the outside diameter of the threaded part (thread pitch major diameter). Then count the threads along a distance of either 1/4" or 1/2"...then again thread pitch gages are nice too.