4L60E install problems
#1
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4L60E install problems
Ok, i blew up my stock 4l60E, and im temporarly putting another 4L60E in there until the th400 is done. Anyways, i get everything all said and done today, I go to start the car, starts fine, but there is a very fast ticking sound, but not high pitched like a lifter. It also wont go into any gear. The selector is locking into the positions like it should, but it doesnt ingage into gear. Ive been told that the stall may not be fully seated, but when i put the transmission on, i just spun the transmission until it just slipped right up against the block.
Is there a way its still not fully seated?
Is there a way i can fix this without dropping the transmission again?
Does this sound like the problem to begin with?
Thanks.
Is there a way its still not fully seated?
Is there a way i can fix this without dropping the transmission again?
Does this sound like the problem to begin with?
Thanks.
#2
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Shift linkage, wiring, cooler lines are all ok right? Any trouble codes being trown by computer. Is the fluid level correct? If it was not seated all the way on the you may have destroyed the front pump. With no pressure it will be like nuetral in every gear. More info needed. What did that trany come out of?
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Some bad news for ya.......
From what it sounds like.....converter wasn't seated all the way and you tore up the pump. When it's in you should have about an inch (using a straight edge) between converter and trans. When you pull it out look in the pump. Chances are the two "tabs" that go into the converter are no longer there.
That sucks.
From what it sounds like.....converter wasn't seated all the way and you tore up the pump. When it's in you should have about an inch (using a straight edge) between converter and trans. When you pull it out look in the pump. Chances are the two "tabs" that go into the converter are no longer there.
That sucks.
#5
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Originally Posted by jay_99z
Some bad news for ya.......
From what it sounds like.....converter wasn't seated all the way and you tore up the pump. When it's in you should have about an inch (using a straight edge) between converter and trans. When you pull it out look in the pump. Chances are the two "tabs" that go into the converter are no longer there.
That sucks.
From what it sounds like.....converter wasn't seated all the way and you tore up the pump. When it's in you should have about an inch (using a straight edge) between converter and trans. When you pull it out look in the pump. Chances are the two "tabs" that go into the converter are no longer there.
That sucks.
yup I have had this problem before also and that is exactly what it is
#6
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Yep, broke the tabs off the pump. Im just going to swap the pump over from the other transmission i have sitting here. Thanks guys, you where right.
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Tabs that seat torque converter broke on pump. I helped pull it tonight. Does anyone know if the bell housing has to come off to get pump out? If not how have you gotten the pump out? I told Kolk1 to take to tranny shop and let them swap the pumps. He and I don't have tools and I refuse to pull out valve body etc. to get the pump out.
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You don't have to pull the valve body.. Just have to remove the torque converter solenoid and the filter. Pull the O-ring off the input shaft too. Then when you pull the pump, you really should have the transmission sitting on its tail so the input shaft, drum, band and everything doesn't want to come dropping out of the trans. Try to press down on the input shaft as you lift on the pump.
When you put the other pump on, you should lube the snot out of the 4 sealing rings on the input shaft. You do not want to tear those up, or you'll lose any combination of 3rd/4th clutch, the forward clutch, or the overrun clutch (provides engine braking in 1, 2, and D). Use a garage door grease stick, the stuff that's really light yellow to clear.
When you put the other pump on, you should lube the snot out of the 4 sealing rings on the input shaft. You do not want to tear those up, or you'll lose any combination of 3rd/4th clutch, the forward clutch, or the overrun clutch (provides engine braking in 1, 2, and D). Use a garage door grease stick, the stuff that's really light yellow to clear.