my english paper on removing a 4l60e from a fbody
09-30-2005, 01:41 AM
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my english paper on removing a 4l60e from a fbody not exactly accurate as you can see from reading. some of the socket sizes i coudn't remember, and some of the little things i left out.. i just got finished pulling my 8th 4l60e transmission from a fbody so i had a pretty good recolection of what i was going to write..
anways its just a damn english teacher right boys.. how much is he gonna know.. he ask for 400 words, i gave him 1200+.. and he ask not so much the info was correct, and the layout was correct ya know.. still i foudn it kinda cool.. and may go back and add a few steps and correct a few in accuracy's when im re installing the transmission this time, and post in the auto section.. what do you think?
maybe it sucks, oh well i have a 100 avg in the college course hehe
"Audience: www.LS1Tech.com and www.scfyb.com members.
JonMichael Christiansen
4L60e transmissions found in Ls1 F-body’s can often times be hard for people new to the hobby and car to work on. We will discuss the steps to removing the 4L60e transmission. Some things you will first need to make sure you have before you begin are a complete set of sockets, wrenches, and four 6 ton jack stands capable of lifting the car 24 inches or more off the ground. You will need a clean, dry, well lit area in which to work. You will also want to have some basic knowledge of the car and prior usage of the tools. If you can find a friend to help you with some of the steps, or air tools to speed things up, that will be a big help if this is your first time attempting this task. Always remember to take your time with each step. Remember it is okay to get on the forum and ask questions, no question is a dumb question as long as you have made some attempt to gather the information you seek first.
The first major step after the car is jacked up and properly secured is to remove the major components attached to the transmission. The torque arm is held on by two long bolts with a nut on the end of each bolt. You will need a 22mm socket to break these free. After doing so, you may need to put a jack underneath the rear end and raise it up a few inches to get the desired angle for the bolts to slide out. The second thing you will need to remove is the driveshaft. It is held on by four 11mm bolts found at the tail end of the driveshaft. Undo these, then slide the driveshaft out of the tail shaft of the transmission. Be careful, as some transmission fluid may leak out. Also you will want to make sure not to drop or bang the driveshaft on anything while removing it. The last major thing that has to be removed is the transmission cross member. This is the bar that comes across under the rear of the transmission that holds it into place. There will be five 17mm bolts that must be taken out. It will simply fall out so be ready to catch it.
The second major step is to remove the rest of the wires and lines attached to the transmission. Start by using an adjustable wrench to loosen the transmission line nuts. These are found on the passenger side of the transmission. Once you have loosened both the nuts, using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the two tiny clips holding the lines in place, being careful not to lose them in the process. Then simply tug on the lines until they pop loose. This process can be a very tricky one, remember to take your time and ask questions if you need too. You must also at this time unbolt the shifter linkage. It is held in place by a 15mm nut on the passenger side of the transmission. Once the nut is off you can pop the linkage arm off and let it hang free. You will also want to make sure and unplug any wires you see running to the transmission. On different makes and models they are slightly different, however they are all easy to find. There are 2-3 depending on model and make in the 4th generation f-body.
The next to last step is by far the hardest one. You may want to find a friend to lend you a hand with this next hour or so of work. However, if u feel confident and up to the task it is not required. First you will need to remove the transmission pan. You do this by simply removing the ten or so 13mm bolts holding it in place. Be careful while lowering the pan as it is filled with fluid. Empty the fluid, and place the pan back into place with a few bolts to hold it down. This is required because when you drop the transmission it will rest on this pan, rather then the internal parts of the valve body. Next, it is time to remove the starter. Do this by using a 14mm socket and a 4-6 inch extension to remove the two bolts holding it in place. Once the bolts are out, the starter will fall, and hang by its wiring harness. Let it hang freely there, it shouldn’t get in the way, and it is quite difficult to remove completely. There should now be a gap where u can see the flex plate. To put this simply, the motor bolts to the flex plate, which bolts to your torque converter which is seated on the main transmission shaft. You will need to undo the flex plate from the converter in order to properly remove the transmission. Do this by first getting a breaker bar equipped with a 24mm socket and place it on your crankshaft bolt. This is the bolt that holds on the main pulley attached to the front of the motor, and threads into the crank. This will turn the motor, thus allowing you to turn the flex plate and reach each of the three bolts through the gap. They will more then likely take a 15mm socket to break them free; however some aftermarket converters or flex plates use different sizes. Simply turn the crank bolt and spin the flex plate until you can undo each of the three.
You have completed all but the final step. Now you are ready to drop the transmission! To do so, you must remove each of the 7 bolts that hold the transmission to the back of the engine. Except for the bottom two, these will be hard to reach, hard to see, and require you to play around with several feet of 3/8ths inch extensions to reach them. To describe there placement, it basically looks like a triangle on top of a square. At each point of intersection there will be a bolt. Save the bottom two for last. Now that you only have the bottom two on either side remaining, take the time to set up your transmission jack, or whatever you’re going to use to catch the transmission. You can get a few of your buddies to attempt to grab onto the transmission and lower it down onto the ground once it is free, however the transmission does weigh around 200lbs. This can be difficult to handle while lying under a car. Either way you choose to go, remove the last two bolts slowly. Finally once they are out, it should only take a very small nudge for the transmission to simply fall. Be ready the millisecond the final bolt is undone.
Now that you have removed the transmission, take a second and look back on what you have accomplished. Many people go to school for two years or more to work at a dealership and do this very same thing for a living. Despite how easy it may look on paper, you now know just how difficult it is. They also charge about 50-100$ per hour to do this kind of work. So as your setting there with your knuckles cut up, and wiping the transmission fluid and dirt off your face, think of the money you just saved, and brag to your friends on www.Ls1tech.com and www.scfyb.com about the task you accomplished!"
i think the format got a lil f'd up when i copied and pasted, but u get the jist!
anways its just a damn english teacher right boys.. how much is he gonna know.. he ask for 400 words, i gave him 1200+.. and he ask not so much the info was correct, and the layout was correct ya know.. still i foudn it kinda cool.. and may go back and add a few steps and correct a few in accuracy's when im re installing the transmission this time, and post in the auto section.. what do you think?
maybe it sucks, oh well i have a 100 avg in the college course hehe
"Audience: www.LS1Tech.com and www.scfyb.com members.
JonMichael Christiansen
4L60e transmissions found in Ls1 F-body’s can often times be hard for people new to the hobby and car to work on. We will discuss the steps to removing the 4L60e transmission. Some things you will first need to make sure you have before you begin are a complete set of sockets, wrenches, and four 6 ton jack stands capable of lifting the car 24 inches or more off the ground. You will need a clean, dry, well lit area in which to work. You will also want to have some basic knowledge of the car and prior usage of the tools. If you can find a friend to help you with some of the steps, or air tools to speed things up, that will be a big help if this is your first time attempting this task. Always remember to take your time with each step. Remember it is okay to get on the forum and ask questions, no question is a dumb question as long as you have made some attempt to gather the information you seek first.
The first major step after the car is jacked up and properly secured is to remove the major components attached to the transmission. The torque arm is held on by two long bolts with a nut on the end of each bolt. You will need a 22mm socket to break these free. After doing so, you may need to put a jack underneath the rear end and raise it up a few inches to get the desired angle for the bolts to slide out. The second thing you will need to remove is the driveshaft. It is held on by four 11mm bolts found at the tail end of the driveshaft. Undo these, then slide the driveshaft out of the tail shaft of the transmission. Be careful, as some transmission fluid may leak out. Also you will want to make sure not to drop or bang the driveshaft on anything while removing it. The last major thing that has to be removed is the transmission cross member. This is the bar that comes across under the rear of the transmission that holds it into place. There will be five 17mm bolts that must be taken out. It will simply fall out so be ready to catch it.
The second major step is to remove the rest of the wires and lines attached to the transmission. Start by using an adjustable wrench to loosen the transmission line nuts. These are found on the passenger side of the transmission. Once you have loosened both the nuts, using a pair of needle nose pliers, remove the two tiny clips holding the lines in place, being careful not to lose them in the process. Then simply tug on the lines until they pop loose. This process can be a very tricky one, remember to take your time and ask questions if you need too. You must also at this time unbolt the shifter linkage. It is held in place by a 15mm nut on the passenger side of the transmission. Once the nut is off you can pop the linkage arm off and let it hang free. You will also want to make sure and unplug any wires you see running to the transmission. On different makes and models they are slightly different, however they are all easy to find. There are 2-3 depending on model and make in the 4th generation f-body.
The next to last step is by far the hardest one. You may want to find a friend to lend you a hand with this next hour or so of work. However, if u feel confident and up to the task it is not required. First you will need to remove the transmission pan. You do this by simply removing the ten or so 13mm bolts holding it in place. Be careful while lowering the pan as it is filled with fluid. Empty the fluid, and place the pan back into place with a few bolts to hold it down. This is required because when you drop the transmission it will rest on this pan, rather then the internal parts of the valve body. Next, it is time to remove the starter. Do this by using a 14mm socket and a 4-6 inch extension to remove the two bolts holding it in place. Once the bolts are out, the starter will fall, and hang by its wiring harness. Let it hang freely there, it shouldn’t get in the way, and it is quite difficult to remove completely. There should now be a gap where u can see the flex plate. To put this simply, the motor bolts to the flex plate, which bolts to your torque converter which is seated on the main transmission shaft. You will need to undo the flex plate from the converter in order to properly remove the transmission. Do this by first getting a breaker bar equipped with a 24mm socket and place it on your crankshaft bolt. This is the bolt that holds on the main pulley attached to the front of the motor, and threads into the crank. This will turn the motor, thus allowing you to turn the flex plate and reach each of the three bolts through the gap. They will more then likely take a 15mm socket to break them free; however some aftermarket converters or flex plates use different sizes. Simply turn the crank bolt and spin the flex plate until you can undo each of the three.
You have completed all but the final step. Now you are ready to drop the transmission! To do so, you must remove each of the 7 bolts that hold the transmission to the back of the engine. Except for the bottom two, these will be hard to reach, hard to see, and require you to play around with several feet of 3/8ths inch extensions to reach them. To describe there placement, it basically looks like a triangle on top of a square. At each point of intersection there will be a bolt. Save the bottom two for last. Now that you only have the bottom two on either side remaining, take the time to set up your transmission jack, or whatever you’re going to use to catch the transmission. You can get a few of your buddies to attempt to grab onto the transmission and lower it down onto the ground once it is free, however the transmission does weigh around 200lbs. This can be difficult to handle while lying under a car. Either way you choose to go, remove the last two bolts slowly. Finally once they are out, it should only take a very small nudge for the transmission to simply fall. Be ready the millisecond the final bolt is undone.
Now that you have removed the transmission, take a second and look back on what you have accomplished. Many people go to school for two years or more to work at a dealership and do this very same thing for a living. Despite how easy it may look on paper, you now know just how difficult it is. They also charge about 50-100$ per hour to do this kind of work. So as your setting there with your knuckles cut up, and wiping the transmission fluid and dirt off your face, think of the money you just saved, and brag to your friends on www.Ls1tech.com and www.scfyb.com about the task you accomplished!"
i think the format got a lil f'd up when i copied and pasted, but u get the jist!
09-30-2005, 09:05 AM
#2
For an English course, in college no less, there are a lot of grammatical errors. For it to be a real write up, you could go to more length explaining a few things. Such as, but not limited to, why you should be careful with the driveshaft. There's also a lot of "filler" that gives no real useful information. Getting exact bolt counts and sizes will help as well.
Just a few things I noticed. Otherwise, good work.
Just a few things I noticed. Otherwise, good work.
09-30-2005, 10:18 AM
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200 lbs...didn't know they were that heavy! Do you let the starter hang the whole time the trans is out?
Was it a paper specifically designated for describing a process?
Was it a paper specifically designated for describing a process?
