jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

I'm really pissed right now.
I put a transgo 4L60E-HD2-B kit in my car 4000 miles ago.
Had a slow 2-3 at that time and took probuilts advice to change the feed hole sizes. Well that never went away 100%, it wasn't bad after I changed the 2-3 upshift pressure modifier with HPTuners.

Now I'm going to put in a converter so I decide to upgrade the 3-4 clutch with the borg warner 8 disc with regular steels, also installed the transgo 3-4 springs. Stock 3-4 clearance was .083, new clutch clearance is .037.

It had the 3rd feed hole at .125 now I drilled it to .184.
Second I did not change it's still .093.
4th was .125 and is now .155.
2nd band release was .106, then I changed it to .122. Called probuilt and Dana said to reduce that to .086-.093, I reduced it to .092. No change.
It still has major flare during the 2-3 shift at higher throttles.

I also put in a borg warner high energy band. Band clearance old and new always seemed big. I was running it with no changes. Today I tried one shim to tighten it, then two. No change.

The line pressure it usually around 65-70, when it gets near the 2-3 shift it goes up to 120 psi a few seconds before, during and after the shift, it even does this on the 3-2 down shift. At wot it goes up to 230 psi. If I hold second the pressure swings between 90 and 180 or so sometimes.


I hate the converter, it's a loose piece of ****, the lock up works great but there is no telling where it stalls at. It will spin the tires at 2400 rpm.
AND it leaks.

As for tuning I tried stock, I tried what has been working with the 2-3 pressure modifier, I tried the desired shift time for 2-3 from .100 to .000. No change.

Never got around to probuilts vacuum modulator kit, going on ten days and it's not here, credit card was charged for it.

Any ideas?

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

Is 2nd slow to release?is 3rd slow to come on?when it comes on is it soft or hard?Did you do any mods to the shift valve?swap solinoid positions Have you ever burnt the 3-4 cluth pack?Sounds like you air checked the 3-4 piston.Loose check ball in input drum? 3rd is already on when it goes to 4th so the band will make a hard 4th shift.Hum ,cross leaks at the valvebody/gaskets /plate,sure you have the correct gaskets and plate.I like OE sep plates.cases can warp,If it was me i would get a new OE sep plate drill it to what you know should be right for you ,and double gasket it with OE gaskets both sides,take a good look at gasket match.Shooting from hip,this is what i would do not to say its what the pros here would do.guess you tried that.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Well with the converter it's hard to feel the shifts but driving light 2nd, 3rd can be felt as ok. 4th kind of slides in and lock up can be felt.
At maybe 3/4 and up 2-3 flares.
2nd release is ok, third apply is ok at light throttle.
I did air check the forward and 3-4.

The shift kit was installed 4000 miles ago and was doing great. The only changes I just made were the transgo 3-4 springs, new 3-4 clutch, new band, changes to the seperator plate holes as per probuilts previous posts found searching this site. And the converter.

This transmission was working fine when I took it out. I was just going to change the converter but decided to put the rest of the shift kit in and upgrade the 3-4.

TCI recommended this converter for my application and I hate it.

I have an off the shelf TCI streetfighter in my nova in my signature and it stalls, you can feel it, it gets to the stall speed and throws your head back. This one I got here now feels like a transmission with no fluid in it.

TeamTripp

Probably not what you want to hear, but reduce the 3rd feed to .093" as a test. For some reason, some transmissions just don't respond well to an oversized 3rd fee. If the .093" fixes it, then I would incrementally increase the hole size (.100", .106", etc...) until it starts to flare again, then go back to the last size. I know its a pain and you have to replace the plate each time you "go back" a size, but you'll find the "balance" between increased 3rd volume and no flair. Keep hole "D" small through all of this.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Well yes it's not that bad, better than "ditch the 3-4 clutches you have"

I appreciate the replys.
It's definatly a timing issue I guess. I just went out for a ride and put HPTuners manual control on it.
I can get into the throttle pretty hard and do a manual 1-3 shift (through the laptop) and it is fine.
Can also do a manual (through the laptop) 1-2, 2-3 and it flares.

It has a good 2-1 downshift, 3-2 downshift.

Looks like the answer is a new seperator plate. I really need to find the problem because I have to take the trans back out to change the front seal or at least see where it's leaking from and fix that. While it's out I need to be sure I don't have to go back into the trans. I can screw around with everything else with it in the car but would rather not have to take it in and out of the car several times.

Thanks Team Tripp, I had a feeling the huge third feed was going to be a problem. Now...where can I find one of those on a holiday

PS I have plenty of th350 plates including the one with the .250 1st and 2nd feed holes had to take that plate out to prevent neck injury, apparently the same theory doesn't work on the 4L60E.

Do you sell the transgo plate or a good one for my 2002?
I can get the transgo for $15 + shipping but if you have it I'd like get it from you since you've helped me out.

Happy Holidays.

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

Hey team trip

Could you please respond to this post
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/413149-q-trans-shop-owners-builders.html
Appreciate your opinion on using which stall converter for this application,also make a suggestion if the converter was not a triple disc type.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

I see you do have the plate, how's your order processing speed?
I hate ordering something and waiting weeks to get it.

TeamTripp

I wouldn't say that, that is the reccomended setup.

What spacer plate are you currently using? If your using the 96+ TransGo, how is your lockup working? Starting with 2002 Model Year (late build 2001's) the TCC regulated apply was changed to a full annular exhaust, which means the valvebody is different, and the plate must be matched to it. So when I build 2002 4L60Es, I use OEM plates (3 digit code on plate). They also require different gaskets. If your using the older stuff, I'd like to know how its working for you.

And don't get me wrong, running a larger 3rd feed is a GOOD thing, I do it quite a bit, but when I get a "problem child" like this, thats what I have to do. You have to make sure your 3-4 clutches are GOOD (which you have covered), the clearances should be on the tight side (not too tight) and the line rise needs to be top notch (.500" boost valve and vacuum modulator) if you want to clutches to last with the reduced volume.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

My spacer plate is stock. My car has a build date of 6/02 and the trans has casting clocks on various parts with 02.
The lock up has always been good, feels like a fourth shift after the transgo kit.

The transmission worked great stock, but I like firmer shifts, when I first installed the transgo kit I noticed the instructions said to drill certain holes bigger, etc, some of the holes were already bigger than they instructed to drill to. If that matters.
I was looking at the transgo plate at bulkpart.com for '96-'04. I'm going to put the stock converter back in too so the hole sizes will end up closer to stock instead of set up for for a performance converter.


How small would you say?
I don't remember the stock size.

TeamTripp

If your still using the stock plate, then my lockup question doesn't apply to you, and honestly, if your using the revised lockup valve TransGo sent you, then the full annular exhaust is probably a moot point anyway. I've got the plates in stock, if you want to try it. If you order them today or Friday, it will ship Friday (nobody ships due to Holiday). I'll throw a set of TransGo gaskets in there too for you.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Thanks,
The car is back in my garage as of an hour ago, have no idea when I'll get back to it. The converter issue (leaking), and having to take the whole trans out is bugging me. I need to cool down before going at it again. I'll keep your website address saved. Still need that accumulator piston too.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Just curious - what stall speed are you running? My 3000 works real well with the Pro Built Transgo using his recommended hole sizes and cutting shift time by 50% with HP tuners. 1-2 and 2-3 are crisp and firm, while it sort of slides into 4th, as you say.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

I went to TCI's online converter form. They said the street fighter part # 242931 would be best.

The reason I did that is because a local guy on this site was selling one, found out it was the same one they recommended.

I'm not saying the converter or the guy is at fault. I have been against using used converters but he said this one had 8-10,000 miles on it, then was cut open and rebuilt by JW converters which is local to him. Then he used it and didn't like it.
Now I know this is like comparing apples to oranges but the TCI SF in my nova works much better.
This LS1 converter feels like the stator is slipping, not that I know what that feels like, just going by what I've read. It's just very loose feeling.

Did you put the kit in yourself?
If you did would you mind sharing the hole sizes just for comparison sake?
Any internal trans work done?
probuilt didn't really recommend the last set of changes I made but I did a search on this site and figured from the information I read that they would work.

At this point I'm very irritated about the whole deal, I have no time to put into this car, holidays, girlfriend issues, etc, etc, etc.
I never intended this car to be much more than stock and never wanted to do the same things over and over. I got the car running 1:30am on a work day only to find the 2-3 flare and in the morning a huge puddle under the converter.
Right now the plan is to put the stock converter back in, fix the leak, fix the shifting issues. Sorry.....thats a long ramble.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

The SF3000 I have always worked well for me except for
the weak lockup clutch. It's in a box in my garage now.
I am concerned I might have to put it back in if I can't
get the new converter to quit vibrating my engine/trans.
I will know that on Saturday. At least this TCI never
wobbled and never leaked. If you can get more TCC line
pressure to it maybe it'd be good enough to stay with.
Or get you on the road anyway. If you want to come
pick it up give me a shout. I also have an unused older
TransGo kit you can scrounge parts out of if that'll help
any. I'll be around all weekend, in West Melbourne on
Sat. and Cocoa otherwise. Also have a front seal and
one of the snout O-rings (which are to be replaced, or
prone to leak) in GM wrappers around here somewhere.

WeeWolf

iTrader: (16)

let me know how it works out. i'm in the same boat right now, my trans is at the shop right now for the same thing, but this time i'm getting someone else to do it with me to make sure i didn't cause the problem. of the subject but is there anyway a collapsing line to the vacuum mod. could cause a 2-3 flare and burn the clutches, could also be my problem. i've seemed to come to the conclusion that too many mods on the trans at one time can cause some major headaches. hope it works out ok. hey can i use the seperator plate from an lt1 trans or should i buy a new one.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

That's exactly the same converter I have. There is definitely something wrong with yours by your description. It's really a pretty tight converter with 3.23 or lower gears.

If you're reinstalling the stock converter, you'll want to retain the stock size separator plate holes, right? Otherwise with the larger holes, that 12" converter is going to make for some jarring shifts.

I had a guy do mine who is really experienced with the Transgo kits. He didn't do anything else besides installing an aluminum 1-2 accumulator housing. Pro Built called for .096 on the 1-2 shift, .155 on the 2-3, and looking at the Transgo diagram, .110 on the top two holes, .155 on the one just below the 1-2. The others he left at .093.

Your deal has turned into a nightmare - sorry about that. Guess you've experienced the truth of your own words about used converters firsthand.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

See I always get the oddball stuff. I used hptuners this morning to see if third gear was slipping. I used the manual controls to put it in third with the tcc locked and it held a good amount of power. It locks up real good with no mods to the lock up pressure stuff.

Jimmy what do you want for all that stuff you have there? (I lost your number)

WeeWolf I think you can find the answer to your plate question above as for the vac mod I can't answer that, I never got mine.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Yeah go figure....This thing must have been restalled or had some internals replaced or something because it's just not right.

I will be putting the stock one in I think, then going with a new vb plate set up for a stock converter, or just set it up like I had it before, I have those numbers written down.