jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

I called everywhere to find a torx plus bit to take the bellhousing off, even the industrial tool suppliers didn't even know what a torx plus was.

I ended up calling a transmission hardparts supplier to see if they knew where to get one. The guy said you don't need to remove it. Just pull it, while it's out take a die grinder and bevel the edge of the bellhousing so the pump will go in without damaging the o-ring. Said to lightly grease it, said he's been doing trans work for 32 years.

So thats what I did.
I had it apart to upgrade the 3-4 clutch and put in a 3000 rpm converter.
Well got it running, next morning there was a big puddle under the car.
Today I pulled it out and changed the front seal and put the stock converter back in. Got it running and there was a little bit of fluid on the bottom still but I'm guessing it's what got spilled while putting the converter in there.

Is this a common practice to bevel the bellhousing or do most builders take it off?

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

I've never seen anyone remove the bellhousing from a 4l60e there is simply no need to do so.

BigBlockChev572

iTrader: (7)

I took the bell housing off, I had to. The Torx is a T50. Thought you knew this man?

TeamTripp

On the 2-piece cases, I always remove the bellhousing. I see no reason not to (unless you can't get the bolts out). It makes it easier to work on it.

Greaseymec

iTrader: (9)

I always take it off. I use a T50 Torx. It will work if you get a long thick punch (brass or steel) and smack those bolt heads a few times each before you try to back them out. Use a breaker bar if you can.

Mec

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

The t-50 does not fit right, it has a star like shape. A torx plus has more of a clover shape.
I didn't want to risk stripping one out.

Now that I have put some miles on the car AFTER REPLACING THE PUMP SEAL and putting the stock converter back in It appears to still be leaking. It has to be the big pump o-ring. I didn't see and signs of it getting damaged while putting it on.

I'm almost to the point to take it to someone and have them fix it. Thats real odd for me to do, I hate people working on my stuff. I did the converter, seal R&R and screwed around with the servo today and had it running in about 4 hours.
I was rushing, I just don't have the time anymore.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

You don't have to take it off to get the pump out and back in. This guy I talked to says he does it all the time and it never leaks.
After I installed mine I expected to see rubber shavings from the seal but I didn't, I did smooth it out good.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

Whenever I pull a pump I replace al lthe teflon seals, stator and pump. The big pump o-ring sometimes and the o-ring on the imput shaft. You need special tools for the stator seals and the 4 around the imput though. Also did you check the o-rings on the bolts too.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

I ordered a set of o-rings for the bolts and the big o-ring that goes around the pump, and the pump gasket.

Never had this problem before, I've re-used the big o-ring on other stuff.
Today I pulled the trans out to replace the front seal and put the stock converter in. As always a little fluid dumped out while the converter was lifted and inserted into the trans.

So I don't know whats leaking. I drove it maybe 25 miles since.
I just went out and checked it, parked it on cardboard, there are two drips hanging there, none on the ground or pan. it seemed to leak worse before.

BigBlockChev572

iTrader: (7)

Well in my situation I had to WIth the trans supported by a wooden crate I made,etc. I couldn't pry the pump out. Taking the bell housing out made it 100% easier. I used a T50 Torx, worked great. Not saying one way is better than another, it's just how I did it.
Philip S.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Did the bolts come out easy or were they real tight?
Just think if one rounded out, thats what I was worried about.
I used a pump puller to get it out.

A few people have said to just use a t50 torx, but damn they fit sloppy in there.

So your pump doesn't leak I take it? Not at all?

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

most pumps I've pulled out of trannys have 2 bolt holes across from each other where you install a size larger bolt and tightened each of them equally will pull the pump out. I can't remember if a 4l60e is that way but I know that most trannys are that way.

Greaseymec

iTrader: (9)

Yes, they are tight! I even tried an impact one time. Didnt work. If you warm those bolt heads with a big punch and hammer before you try backing them out, they will come out alot eaiser. I went through the same steps that you are doing now, Snap On nor Mac tools had the tool I needed. So I did the next best thing. Made something up! It worked! More than once! Still works! Not makeing fun cause I know where you are at. Good luck.

Mec

BigBlockChev572

iTrader: (7)

The bolts were real tight. I used a "basic" air gun and they didn't budge, I used an upscale gun, I think it was an Ingersoll rand, but it popped them out like they were nothing! The T50 didn't round the bolts out at all. My pump doesn't leak that I know of, Just all my TC/Flywheel bolts are stripped and my converter won't stay locked without bucking, but I'm working on that.
Philip S.

BigBlockChev572

iTrader: (7)

Nope the 60e isn't like this. I removed the bell housing and used two flat head screw drivers to pry the pump out on its side.
Philip S.

jxaxsxoxn

iTrader: (2)

Thats correct the 4L60E's and even the 700R4's didn't have these, I know what you mean, the th350's and th400's have them.
Back when I had a pile of 700's and spare parts for them I used to tap the two pump holes and use the bolt method to pull the pump.
But I never worried because I had several spares.

The problem with the removable bellhousing is that it has a sharp edge on it where the pump goes through. It will go in and out of the hole but I guess it's not meant to, but apparently the guy who gave me the advice of chamfering the bellhousing had good luck doing it.

Plum Crazy Rob

iTrader: (3)

I've used the regular T-50 and a breakover as well. I don't think I'd try it
with an impact, it'd strip 'em too easy IMHO.

I could have SWORN Snap-On does sell the T-50+ though??? Now I'll have
to go look...

Ah, here they are...we sell them, but you can't have them = WTF??!!

(edit: turns out "tamper-resistant", in addition to having the center post hole
,which wouldn't matter in this case, are five-lobe designs...which WILL matter)


Here's one though :
http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_9618.htm