I'm nervous about this stall I just bought...
#1
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I'm nervous about this stall I just bought...
I recently purchased a Pro Yank 4000 Extreme stall from a user here on tech. A few of my friends are going to help me install the converter this Sunday. But, now I'm nervous about it. The previous owner, who bought the stall new, claimed it only had about 15 track passes on it with no street time. The day after it showed up at my apartment a friend of mine told me you can't just run a new stall at the track, that it has to be broken in first. So, now I'm wondering if I should send the stall to Yank to get it checked out. Do you think I might have purchased a $600 piece of ****?
#2
personally i wouldnt have purchased a used track only stall. And it's debateable whether or not a stall needs to be broken in. I would send the stall to yank and have them check it out and maybe freshen it up.
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I would never buy a used stall and stick it in my car with out having it checked out by the manufacture. Honestly I would never buy a used stall, I would buy new from the begining. Send to Yank and have if freshed up
#4
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Yank recommends about a 150 mile break-in period (no full throttle operation, and locking and unlocking to seat the clutch properly) for a new stall. I agree...I would never buy a used stall either. A PITA to install yourself and expensive to have someone else do it. To have to remove it, and then reinstall, if its no good, would really be irritating.
Ed
Ed
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?userid=14799
That's Yank. Good folks.
They rebuilt my ST3500 and turned it in to a SY3000 for me. You can probably expect to spend a couple hundred to have the converter gone through (just a guess).
But honestly - I've never heard of torque converter break in. It either works or it doesn't. Does it still have fluid in it? It probably should. I'd set it open side down on a clean cookie sheet for a week, let fluid drain out, and take a look at the fluid. If the fluid is clean and red - I bet it's fine. If the fluid has bits in it, or is brown or smells, I'd have it gone through. You do run a risk by buying a used part, but you can also save some money. Also kinda depends on how much you trust the guy you bought it from. I've sold used torque converters out of my car...
That's Yank. Good folks.
They rebuilt my ST3500 and turned it in to a SY3000 for me. You can probably expect to spend a couple hundred to have the converter gone through (just a guess).
But honestly - I've never heard of torque converter break in. It either works or it doesn't. Does it still have fluid in it? It probably should. I'd set it open side down on a clean cookie sheet for a week, let fluid drain out, and take a look at the fluid. If the fluid is clean and red - I bet it's fine. If the fluid has bits in it, or is brown or smells, I'd have it gone through. You do run a risk by buying a used part, but you can also save some money. Also kinda depends on how much you trust the guy you bought it from. I've sold used torque converters out of my car...
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#8
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I also think torque converter break in is kinda silly. They say you need to break it in to seat the clutch properly.......well the converter is unlocked at WOT anyway so I can't see how that would hurt the lockup clutch? Ah well. Camaroholic gave you some good advice, that's what I'd do if I were you.
#9
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Originally Posted by amsterdamn
I recently purchased a Pro Yank 4000 Extreme stall from a user here on tech. A few of my friends are going to help me install the converter this Sunday. But, now I'm nervous about it. The previous owner, who bought the stall new, claimed it only had about 15 track passes on it with no street time. The day after it showed up at my apartment a friend of mine told me you can't just run a new stall at the track, that it has to be broken in first. So, now I'm wondering if I should send the stall to Yank to get it checked out. Do you think I might have purchased a $600 piece of ****?
if you go and have it checked out by yank, chances are with the extra money you spend, you could have wound up getting their high performance strip/nitrous stalls brand new.
no matter what, it sounds like a lose-lose situation when you buy a used stall, especially one that hasn't been broken in. i really have no good advice for you, i just wish you the best of luck. and yes, you probably should send it back to yank and pray it comes out costing less than the same model brand new.
#10
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Straight from the Yank website:
CONVERTER INSTALLATION GUIDE
PLEASE CHECK THE FOLLOWING…..
1. Crank pilot hole for trash or wear.
2. Flywheel for cracks or worn holes.
3. Mounting points for rust and flatness.
4. Converter bolts for correct length and threads.
5. Converter fits correctly on pump.
6. Add one qt. Oil prior to installation of converter.
We recommend a good name brand ATF in either a Dextron III or a Type F
We do not recommend any type of Synthetic fluid at all.
Use high temperature grease on crank pilot.
(a light coat will do.)
• After transmission is bolted up check that converter will pull away from the flywheel at least 3/32” but no more than 5/16”.
• Use spacers as needed, if needed.
• Check that pump is fully engaged.
• Please use a high capacity transmission cooler.
BREAK IN PERIOD…
Yank converters have a special clutch lining material that requires a special break in procedure.
This procedure consists of:
Driving the converter at normal speeds with NO WOT starts or brake stalling the converter for approx, 150 miles.
Stall checking or Brake stalling will severely damage the clutch lining if converter is not broke in properly. This will void any warranty.
If you have any questions please DON’T hesitate to give us a call @ 775-826-9955. Or you can e-mail us @ dave@converter.cc .
Ed
CONVERTER INSTALLATION GUIDE
PLEASE CHECK THE FOLLOWING…..
1. Crank pilot hole for trash or wear.
2. Flywheel for cracks or worn holes.
3. Mounting points for rust and flatness.
4. Converter bolts for correct length and threads.
5. Converter fits correctly on pump.
6. Add one qt. Oil prior to installation of converter.
We recommend a good name brand ATF in either a Dextron III or a Type F
We do not recommend any type of Synthetic fluid at all.
Use high temperature grease on crank pilot.
(a light coat will do.)
• After transmission is bolted up check that converter will pull away from the flywheel at least 3/32” but no more than 5/16”.
• Use spacers as needed, if needed.
• Check that pump is fully engaged.
• Please use a high capacity transmission cooler.
BREAK IN PERIOD…
Yank converters have a special clutch lining material that requires a special break in procedure.
This procedure consists of:
Driving the converter at normal speeds with NO WOT starts or brake stalling the converter for approx, 150 miles.
Stall checking or Brake stalling will severely damage the clutch lining if converter is not broke in properly. This will void any warranty.
If you have any questions please DON’T hesitate to give us a call @ 775-826-9955. Or you can e-mail us @ dave@converter.cc .
Ed
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Many good points have been made here. I know for break in on rear ends for example for a straight drag car you don't have to follow the same break in procedures as for a street or street strip/car. Reason being is that the drag car's components won't suffer the same heat and stop/go stress that's generated by a street driven car.
#14
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Originally Posted by Joel_SS
I do not understand why people are so against breaking in a converter. If that is what Yank says just do it...
people blow my mind it's 150 miles! i drive that in 2 days just to work!
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I learned my lesson with used converters. Bought one about two years ago, knew nothing about them. It was some Midwest maybe? Fried my transmission two days later. If I were you, regardless I would ship it over to Yank and have it freshed up. The guys at Yank are great to deal with.
#16
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I have purchased three used stall, 2 for friends and one for me, and I have not had a single problem with them. I guess you just have to be smart when it comes to buying used items in general. Don't jump in and purchase something that sounds good and is cheap. IMHO......$600 is to much for a used stall.
#17
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Just put it in, your not sending it to space. My friend baught a used yankSS3800 and works awsome. Ive never heard of breaking in a converter??? Even if the manufacturer recomends it how can they expect people with drag cars that dont run them on the street to do it? thats right...they dont.
#19
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I put in a used Yank ST 3500 and no problems at all. Converter works great and no issues with the tranny either. It's a gamble.....I am getting a built tranny this fall and will send the converter to Yank to get cleaned and restalled to 4K. But I am really only sending it to them because I want the restall, not because I am worried about sticking it in the new tranny.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?userid=14799
That's Yank. Good folks.
They rebuilt my ST3500 and turned it in to a SY3000 for me. You can probably expect to spend a couple hundred to have the converter gone through (just a guess).
But honestly - I've never heard of torque converter break in. It either works or it doesn't. Does it still have fluid in it? It probably should. I'd set it open side down on a clean cookie sheet for a week, let fluid drain out, and take a look at the fluid. If the fluid is clean and red - I bet it's fine. If the fluid has bits in it, or is brown or smells, I'd have it gone through. You do run a risk by buying a used part, but you can also save some money. Also kinda depends on how much you trust the guy you bought it from. I've sold used torque converters out of my car...
That's Yank. Good folks.
They rebuilt my ST3500 and turned it in to a SY3000 for me. You can probably expect to spend a couple hundred to have the converter gone through (just a guess).
But honestly - I've never heard of torque converter break in. It either works or it doesn't. Does it still have fluid in it? It probably should. I'd set it open side down on a clean cookie sheet for a week, let fluid drain out, and take a look at the fluid. If the fluid is clean and red - I bet it's fine. If the fluid has bits in it, or is brown or smells, I'd have it gone through. You do run a risk by buying a used part, but you can also save some money. Also kinda depends on how much you trust the guy you bought it from. I've sold used torque converters out of my car...