how hot does your tranny get?
#1
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how hot does your tranny get?
I dont exactly know what is normal for our cars.
During around town driving in 80-100* driving i see temps around 165*.
What is a good temp to stay at?
I just want to make sure my tranny cooler is working right
During around town driving in 80-100* driving i see temps around 165*.
What is a good temp to stay at?
I just want to make sure my tranny cooler is working right
#2
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I have a stall on the way, so I decided to put a tranny temp gauge in BEFORE my converter so I'd know what's considered normal "stock" temps. Here's what I found, stock tranny, stock converter, no cooler;
Cruising around town and highway: 150-165 in heat, 140 at night
Beating on it: 180-190 in the heat, 150-160 at night
Stuck in traffic today for over 1 hour in 90+ weather: 200
These are stock temps on a stock tranny. Soon I'm gonna install the cooler and see what that does for me before adding the stall. If you are only seeing 165 then you should be good.
Cruising around town and highway: 150-165 in heat, 140 at night
Beating on it: 180-190 in the heat, 150-160 at night
Stuck in traffic today for over 1 hour in 90+ weather: 200
These are stock temps on a stock tranny. Soon I'm gonna install the cooler and see what that does for me before adding the stall. If you are only seeing 165 then you should be good.
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With a 4400 stall and driving around in those outside temps, 165F sounds pretty damn good to me.
Is that with an external gage or a scanner reading?
Is that with an external gage or a scanner reading?
#6
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I've got my sending unit mounted in the cooler line before the cooler......the hottest temps you can see. In 100 degree humid weather, I see 180* cruising on the highway and 200*-210* in the city with traffic and some WOT bursts. Normal city driving stays about 180*. I am going to mount a second cooler and see if that helps. But I can also say that most people don't mount their sending unit in the place I have mine. The test port on the side of the tranny is not accurate supposedly, and I didn't want it in the pan because I don't believe that to be the hottest the fluid gets. After I get the second cooler in, I'll post up my results.
#7
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It was normal to have around 175* or so, since my tranny went out and i knew i was putting a new in i wanted to see how hot it got...
1st gear works fine, second slips bad, 3rd is gone..
hottest it got was 245*
When the new tranny goes in with the TCI 3k stall and cooler well see what it makes.
1st gear works fine, second slips bad, 3rd is gone..
hottest it got was 245*
When the new tranny goes in with the TCI 3k stall and cooler well see what it makes.
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#8
Originally Posted by 99Hawk262
I've got my sending unit mounted in the cooler line before the cooler......the hottest temps you can see. In 100 degree humid weather, I see 180* cruising on the highway and 200*-210* in the city with traffic and some WOT bursts. Normal city driving stays about 180*. I am going to mount a second cooler and see if that helps. But I can also say that most people don't mount their sending unit in the place I have mine. The test port on the side of the tranny is not accurate supposedly, and I didn't want it in the pan because I don't believe that to be the hottest the fluid gets. After I get the second cooler in, I'll post up my results.
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My stock trans and stall before it started sliping and doing weird stuff used to be 200-230 with no cooler. After a 28000 GVR Hayden race series added it would see 170-200. then when it started to slip I'd easily see up to 230 often if I was at all hard on the tranny. Now with the FLP Level 3, tune, and 3400 stall I've yet to see past 170. Sender is mounted after the cooler for all these figures.
I tried the case port for a while with my stock trans and didn't like it. It would just slowly heat up and slowly cool off showing very little change when you are hard on the trans or footbrakeing the car on the stall. With the sender in the cooler line either before or after it would heat and cool more quickly. Heck I can see the temp creep up when I footbrake the stall thats somehitng the case port didn't show at all.
Sender before the cooler huh? I might try that too as it does make sense to see how hot the fluid is as it exits the trans. mabey I'll hook my old cyberdine gauge up to read the difference before and after just for giggles.
I don't like the idea of two coolers.. I'd rather spend money on a single larger super effectient cooler like a setrab or even the Earls fluid cooler. More lines clamps and hoses = possibility of more problems imo.
I tried the case port for a while with my stock trans and didn't like it. It would just slowly heat up and slowly cool off showing very little change when you are hard on the trans or footbrakeing the car on the stall. With the sender in the cooler line either before or after it would heat and cool more quickly. Heck I can see the temp creep up when I footbrake the stall thats somehitng the case port didn't show at all.
Sender before the cooler huh? I might try that too as it does make sense to see how hot the fluid is as it exits the trans. mabey I'll hook my old cyberdine gauge up to read the difference before and after just for giggles.
I don't like the idea of two coolers.. I'd rather spend money on a single larger super effectient cooler like a setrab or even the Earls fluid cooler. More lines clamps and hoses = possibility of more problems imo.
#10
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I hear you about running two coolers, but it is the most cost efficient for me. My existing cooler is mounted dope style and I am going to mount the second cooler dope style on the driver side. I drilled holes through the air dam and will run the lines behind the air dam. I'll get pics of the whole setup when I am done. As far as leaking issues, I haven't had any and am not too worried about that.