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thinking of N20.Will I need anti-ballooning plates

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Old 09-13-2006, 10:30 PM
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Default thinking of N20.Will I need anti-ballooning plates

LIke the title says thinking of n20.I posted this in the nitrous section and thought I get some opinions here.Well right now I have bolt ons,full exaust intake,cammed.I plan on adding heads,but thought about nitrous first.I will get a fully built tranny to hold the extra power,but did not know if My TCIsupe street fighter3400-3800stall would needded to be swapped out for a verter with ABP.I planned on a 75 to 100 shot on the cam and the same on when the heads go on.Is it the size of the shot that determines the need for ABP or is it the TOTAL rwhp that determines it.I just want to know if I can run a small shot without having to put a diff.verter.The n20 is just ther for that little extra power I dont plan on doing a200 shot,and if I do i will upgrade then.So finally just want to know if I can do 75-100 safely or maybe even a smaller 50(or will i not even notice it).
thanks
john
Old 09-13-2006, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by john563
LIke the title says thinking of n20.I posted this in the nitrous section and thought I get some opinions here.Well right now I have bolt ons,full exaust intake,cammed.I plan on adding heads,but thought about nitrous first.I will get a fully built tranny to hold the extra power,but did not know if My TCIsupe street fighter3400-3800stall would needded to be swapped out for a verter with ABP.I planned on a 75 to 100 shot on the cam and the same on when the heads go on.Is it the size of the shot that determines the need for ABP or is it the TOTAL rwhp that determines it.I just want to know if I can run a small shot without having to put a diff.verter.The n20 is just ther for that little extra power I dont plan on doing a200 shot,and if I do i will upgrade then.So finally just want to know if I can do 75-100 safely or maybe even a smaller 50(or will i not even notice it).
thanks
john
John, you should be fine with a small shot of N20. If you stay at 100 or less, you won't have any "ballooning" on a decent quality converter. Just make sure you stay safe with cold plugs, good fuel pump, run at least 100 octane while spraying, and if it's a wet kit, you should pull a little timing out too.
FPSS, WOT switch, Window switch, etc. etc. You can never be too safe on the hose. Ballooning verts are the least of your worries.
Old 09-14-2006, 10:22 AM
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as stated above a bunch of people wil tell you that you need it but on a small shot you will be fine.
Old 09-14-2006, 12:32 PM
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thanks I feel so much better,as the verter is only 8 months old and did not want to spend money on a new verter.I gonna do a 75 just to stay safe.Most say I wont feel anything,but I noticed my TR224/112 cam so I think a 75 will be decent and keep me safe.What do you guys think?Will I have to go smaller if I add heads?Thanks again for all your replys
john
Old 09-14-2006, 02:10 PM
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I have ran a 150 shot on my PI Vig 3200 9.5" triple disk... no balloon plate and no problems there either.
Old 09-15-2006, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by john563
thanks I feel so much better,as the verter is only 8 months old and did not want to spend money on a new verter.I gonna do a 75 just to stay safe.Most say I wont feel anything,but I noticed my TR224/112 cam so I think a 75 will be decent and keep me safe.What do you guys think?Will I have to go smaller if I add heads?Thanks again for all your replys
john
Adding better heads are not going to meke any difference in needing a special anti-balloon plate on your vert. People who run 300 to 500 or more of N20 are the only ones who might spend the extra money for that.

Just as an FYI regarding any new heads you get in the future, be sure not to just slap them on and go right out and spray even a small shot of N20. The engine builders (good ones) who know about these aluminum LS-x engines will tell you this. You should run the new heads for a while and heat cycle them a good number of times, then do a re-torque of the heads before going to the spray. This simply means backing off each bolt/stud one at a time, and in sequence, one at a time re-torque them to spec. (don't loosen all of them at once) This is a bit of a PITA, but could save you some problems down the road. These aluminum engines can get just loose enough after some miles on a new set of heads to "lift" while on the hose and blow out the head gaskets.

You can just torque them down once and probably be good to go, but N20 creates enough extra cylinder pressure to lift a new head under the spray. As I said, this is not something that everyone believes in doing, but I thought it would be good to mention it and let you decide for yourself.
Old 09-15-2006, 09:24 AM
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Thanks for all the advice guys.Last night I took my car to the dyno too see what it would do with the TR224/112 cam LThedders,boltons.Well last week I thought it was shifting rough,but went for the dyno session anyway.Well what do you know it whent(the tranny)I did 355 unlocked with the slipping tranny and conservative tune.My tuner knew the owner of ashop where some orders for the trans I wanted were in stock.So since these cars that were not ready for another wk I took their tranny that they ordered and they will take that I ordered that will be there next wk.Today its getting the new tranny in and were gonna retune and see what it does.Before I was so worried about making too much power cuz did not want tranny to go ,but since it whent its time to move forward get it back on the dyno to finish the tuning session and start modding
Old 09-15-2006, 05:02 PM
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Is this going to be a stock rebuild? What kind of transmission?
Old 09-15-2006, 11:41 PM
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for anything under 150 shot you do not need the plates
performabuilt.com
Old 09-16-2006, 08:06 PM
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thanks.coming from a trans shop it really makes me feel more confident to do a75-100 shot
Old 10-13-2006, 05:41 PM
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well i ballooned my 3500 midwest converter today

on a 140hp shot.......
Old 10-13-2006, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jessedale98
well i ballooned my 3500 midwest converter today

on a 140hp shot.......
Not surprising. Midwest verts are much cheaper than Vig and others.
There's probably a reason for that.



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