New with an A4
#1
New with an A4
I just bought a 2002 Trans Am with an A4. The car is about 99% stock (the last owner installed a Flowmaster muffler). I have made a list of suspension and chassis mods along with some power bolt-ons like a turbo kit. But I don't know what improvement parts to get or how much this tranny can handle? My power goal will be a daily driver 450 to 500whp range. BTW, I am in Germany with this car soon if there are going to be problems later I REALLY want to know. Also, does anyone recommend a book on doing performance rebuilds or overhauls on the 4L60E?
#3
Originally Posted by 01_ram-air
1) Lid w/ K&N filter
2) pick up a torque converter, read around, there's hundreds of posts on which brands and which stall speeds. I'd go with a Yank 3600 or higher stall IMO
2) pick up a torque converter, read around, there's hundreds of posts on which brands and which stall speeds. I'd go with a Yank 3600 or higher stall IMO
#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
with the stock a4 just remember when you start fooling with shift points and lock ups the stock internals werent exactly made to spec for that....raising shift points will undoubtly increase heat, which will destroy that tranny....id recommend building it first, and then worrying about shift points....but also with a stock car shift points really wont do much for you
#6
first, a trans go shift kit will help it last a bit longer.
BUT, the real thing you need to do is either buy a beefed up one, or find a KNOWN great 4l60e builder and have it rebuilt. With the kinda power your after, the 4l60e won't handle it in stock form for very long.
definatly look into a rebuild, beefup. 3rd gear will likly be the first to go. The caprice will be on trans #3, maybe #4 here, with 180k on it. The first lasted to around 160k, then the 2nd used one went till 180k, even with a shift kit. It's a full bolt on car(1/4 #'s are old) that was cammed in 2003. since the cam, it has killed 2. The car isn't exactly a HP king, and is shifted at 5500. soak that in, and you see what I mean about needing to beef up.
BUT, the real thing you need to do is either buy a beefed up one, or find a KNOWN great 4l60e builder and have it rebuilt. With the kinda power your after, the 4l60e won't handle it in stock form for very long.
definatly look into a rebuild, beefup. 3rd gear will likly be the first to go. The caprice will be on trans #3, maybe #4 here, with 180k on it. The first lasted to around 160k, then the 2nd used one went till 180k, even with a shift kit. It's a full bolt on car(1/4 #'s are old) that was cammed in 2003. since the cam, it has killed 2. The car isn't exactly a HP king, and is shifted at 5500. soak that in, and you see what I mean about needing to beef up.
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#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (32)
If you're concerned about only what the transmission will handle, it will handle a lot, but, 450-500 RWHP for an A4, well, instead of wasting money, swap out with a built 4L65E race level V. For the cost, it will save you money in the future. You can recoup a few of those dollars back by selling your current stock transmission. I'd first replace the 10-bolt, but, looks like you know what you're doing and can make that decision for yourself. A4's are forgiving, but, not at that kind of power level. Talk to Chuck Johnson at FLT/FLP. Chuck has been really supportive when I've had past issues with mine. He can give you the best advice known to mankind.
#9
Well, I mentioned that I am in Germany with this Trans Am. My Formula is back home in Indy. So I come into problems in getting a complete tranny or having a reliable builder. I asked for a book of some kind to maybe build one up. I might try it on a tranny from the wreck lot. Also, I will be on street tires doing mostly high speed runs.
#10
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
I wasn't asking about any bolt on parts. Otherwise, I would have put this in the performance section. I want to know more about the 4L60E tranny. Also, I have a HP Tuner cable that has more room for tuning other cars. What can I do to improve the shifting and lockup.
If not, like I said, put a torque converter in it. My tranny is completely stock internally except for the torque converter. You will need to tune the tranny once the tc is installed. Delete torque management, adjust shift points. I shift at 6000 rpms. and have a tranny cooler. Basic, but quite effective.
#12
Originally Posted by 01_ram-air
So, you want to keep the tranny stock and see what tuning you can do to it?
If not, like I said, put a torque converter in it. My tranny is completely stock internally except for the torque converter. You will need to tune the tranny once the tc is installed. Delete torque management, adjust shift points. I shift at 6000 rpms. and have a tranny cooler. Basic, but quite effective.
If not, like I said, put a torque converter in it. My tranny is completely stock internally except for the torque converter. You will need to tune the tranny once the tc is installed. Delete torque management, adjust shift points. I shift at 6000 rpms. and have a tranny cooler. Basic, but quite effective.
I'd say my concern is that I would like to install a OFI turbo kit with about 8psi of boost. I want to install a converter to get the motor in rpm range of the turbo. I just want to be sure the tranny will be ok with not only the power output of the engine, but survive on the Audobahn here in Germany. I know I can get the rearend to handle the 450-500whp.
#13
10 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
You track numbers are impressive for a 100-shot of spray. I would guess that you are making about 400whp on nitrous.
I'd say my concern is that I would like to install a OFI turbo kit with about 8psi of boost. I want to install a converter to get the motor in rpm range of the turbo. I just want to be sure the tranny will be ok with not only the power output of the engine, but survive on the Audobahn here in Germany. I know I can get the rearend to handle the 450-500whp.
I'd say my concern is that I would like to install a OFI turbo kit with about 8psi of boost. I want to install a converter to get the motor in rpm range of the turbo. I just want to be sure the tranny will be ok with not only the power output of the engine, but survive on the Audobahn here in Germany. I know I can get the rearend to handle the 450-500whp.
The car put down about 424 rwhp on the 100 shot
From what I've read, FI cars are a little less destructive on trannys. Just make sure that you have a good tranny cooler as heat is the major enemy of trannys. Good luck.
I wish I could go let it loose on the Audobahn. I'm jealous
#15
Originally Posted by Gold Phoenix
I just want to be sure the tranny will be ok with not only the power output of the engine, but survive on the Audobahn here in Germany. I know I can get the rearend to handle the 450-500whp.
I would also be worried about the engine durability, especially if you're planning on forced induction. An engine oil cooler and a safe tune would be the bare minimum. You can get away with a lot if the engine only sees wide open throttle for a few seconds at the drag strip, but these setups tend to blow up in your face when dealing with sustained high speeds.
Keep in mind that aerodynamic drag grows exponentially. Cruising at 80mph takes about 40hp while cruising at 160mph takes about 240hp, which means you're burning 6 times as much fuel and generating 6 times as much heat.
One area that may also need attention are the brakes, since stock f-bodies are underbraked for higher speeds, but you can probably still address that once you're in Germany.
#16
I am mainly worried about the tranny because I have no experience in repairing them. I intended to install many oil coolers for this car as well as suspension and braking upgrades. I am trying to keep the mods down to bolts-ons with this low mileage motor. I am not going as radical as my Formula.
#17
Well, that's a good call because transmission repairs would be rather troublesome/expensive in Germany, and it's one of the things that's almost guaranteed to go wrong if left stock due to the heat.
Coolers (and possibly temp gauges) for the engine and trans are pretty much a must, but it may also be worthwhile to consider cooling the rear-end. Other than that, make sure you have tires with the appropriate speed rating and that there's no speed limiter spoiling the fun.
If you can do your own work and have someone to ship you parts, you may want to put off some of the chassis/brake stuff until you get here, so you get a better idea of your needs. In the end, that'll depend on whether you make use of the public road tracks or if you only need high speed stability on the Autobahn. However, should you be buying new wheels, don't forget about the space requirements for upgraded brakes. Also keep in mind that tires with lots of sidewall may not be too great in terms of directional stability when driving over an expansion joint of a bridge while cornering at 150mph.
You may also want to check out fbodyeurope.org as there are a few military guys with F-Bodies in Germany.
Coolers (and possibly temp gauges) for the engine and trans are pretty much a must, but it may also be worthwhile to consider cooling the rear-end. Other than that, make sure you have tires with the appropriate speed rating and that there's no speed limiter spoiling the fun.
If you can do your own work and have someone to ship you parts, you may want to put off some of the chassis/brake stuff until you get here, so you get a better idea of your needs. In the end, that'll depend on whether you make use of the public road tracks or if you only need high speed stability on the Autobahn. However, should you be buying new wheels, don't forget about the space requirements for upgraded brakes. Also keep in mind that tires with lots of sidewall may not be too great in terms of directional stability when driving over an expansion joint of a bridge while cornering at 150mph.
You may also want to check out fbodyeurope.org as there are a few military guys with F-Bodies in Germany.