YO-EL

iTrader: (6)

HAD a 3200 stall, put in a 3600, but my 60' went UP from low to mid 1.5's to mid-upper 1.6's... Translates into .2 in ET...

Ridiculous...
Before the swap & ran low -mid 11's..
Friday night & yesterday, I was running 11.70's-11.80's...

My car NEVER even saw 11.60's, on the hottest 95 degree day & 4000DA..

Anyway, I'm sensing its the converter...
Just no hit, no matter what the launch, feels like its pushing thru, not holding any pressure..

Tranny seems like its shifting fine...

Am I on target focusing on the converter, I mean, can it be not stalled properly or not have the right STR out of the box...

$$$ is at stake as I'm gonna have to pay labor AGAIN to drop the tranny etc..

What do you think, tranny or converter

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Likely a converter issue , transmissions simply transfer power ,though there shift elapse from gear to gear can have and effect but assuming The transmission shifts are solid that would be my guess

Yank

iTrader: (181)

I have seen many a transmission cause this can be a crossleak in valvebody or even the front pump allowing the converter clutch to apply even when not commanded to do so by the PCM
also very high line takes horsepower away from the engine this can cause an internal leak as stated above what is your line at WOT.
if the converter has a higher stall it will feel stronger in the 60' range you are stating 3200 to 3600, what are you seeing in stall or flash rpm.
You did not state you MPH #

YO-EL

iTrader: (6)

MPH speeds are off 4-5 mph..
Usually trap 119-120, Fri & Sat trapped 115..

Line pressure & ALL transmission parameters are stock settings..
Is there any way to test or check the converter while its still installed in the car

Really is a dog off the line.. There's no hit at all...
60' times are slower by a tenth- 1.5 tenths

01_ram-air

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm, I'm also wondering if this could be a tuning issue also going from the 3200-3600 stall. What converter did you go from---to? Same brand?

YO-EL

iTrader: (6)

Same brand, and found out they're BOTH the same part #..
So it ended up being an exact replacement..

Been thru this a few yrs back, ended up being the converter..
I just can't believe I'm having to do this 2 converter swap in & out & in & out all over again....

Yank

iTrader: (181)

If it is the same converter part # then I would look at the transmission.

YO-EL

iTrader: (6)

We found out that the bolt on the clamp on the transmission drive shaft had come loose, so at high rpms, it was slipping...

Tightened, & ran normal ET's & 60's...

This is @ the front of the car, behind the oil pan, remove a horizontal oval shaped rubber gromet & the bolt is up there.

Never heard any noise or clanking, but as soon as the rubber cap was removed, the bolt fell out..~!

FLT

iTrader: (1)

So a faulty installation. Am I correct? Or was it never touched and was probably the problem before the swap? Vince

Yank

iTrader: (181)

That is good info! as I have not heard of that before
but you might check as
the shaft is heat treated steel and the internal spline is cast iron so the splines might have rounded the tops off.

YO-EL

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure where to go with it, as to who's fault, where or when, but this is something everyone reading should check for tightness..

The splines are fine.. If not, I'd be slipping on launch...

My 60' times went from an abnormal 1.65+ down to 1.57 consistently once it was tightened & my ET's went from last Saturdays abnormal 11.70's to 11.36 yesterday.. Same DA +400.