mm8ls1

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone installed a powergilde into a camaro/firebird between the years 1993-2002?

Besides changing the transmission frame mount:

Are the LT1/LS1 bellhousing bolt patterns the same as 60's-70's small and big block chevy motors?

Do you need to modify anything computer/electronic related with a powergilde installed?

Looking at installing a powerglide for racing (street class) purposes only.

Anyone out there make this change? Looking for consistency and any recommendations would help.

FormulaFire

iTrader: (20)

I know you will have to do some adjustments to make the speedometer to read correctly. and the computer adj. will depend on whether or not you had an A4 or M6.. If you had an A4 you will need to retune..

Ken95Z28

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the middle of doing this swap right now.

PowerGlide Install

There is some work that is involved.
The powerglide will bolt up to the LT1 without any issues, not to sure on the LS1's but I don't see why not if the TH400's and TH350's can do it.

One of the issues is how to handle the T-Arm to the tranny, might have to go to Spohn setup and some compatible setup. I'm running a Pete-Z bar style setup on the rear and letting the T-Arm float (Between the Tunnel and Drive Shaft Loop), been doing that the past two years.

I also went ahead and purchase a B&M Shifter as well, that's what's shown in the pictures.

I'm just waiting on the first of the year to order my powerglide and converter that I will be using in the car (ATI and ATI Converter), they are on sale right now.

mm8ls1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies. Looking at purely making this a bracket car for the street/footbrake classes. The car will not be driven on the street at all, but needs to be street class legal, so the speedometer calibration isn't that critical.
It's not important that I go fast, but just want to be consistent. Ken95Z28, Do you have pics of your torque arm from your car. I see that BMR makes a PG crossmember that relocates your torque arm, which could be a good way to go

FormulaFire, I'm very green with computer controlled cars. Would any adjustments have to made to the computer to run a powerglide or can I just disconnect the speedo cable and be done with it? Will any other adjustments be needed in the computer?

Ken95Z28 can you tell me about all of your suspension/engine/computer mods that you have on your car.

Thanks Again

mm8ls1

iTrader: (1)

Would I use a standard small block chevy/powerglide torque converter or does the conveter use a specific converter snout? I already have a PG and 3 converters from my old small/big block motors

Ken95Z28

iTrader: (1)

Basically I'm in the same boat as you, this is strictly a bracket car. The A4 that I was running did great, but the 60's started to be inconsistant later in the rounds. The glide should make it more consistant at the line. I'm running a Pete-Z style bar setup in the rear. It's mounted on a Moser 12 Bolt, minus the sway bar.

Rear Suspension

I have a set of QA1's 12-Ways on the front and a set of Lakewoods 8-Ways on the rear.

The Motor is nothing special, just a 355 with some head work done to it and a decent size cam (Hydraulic). I have a 4200 Vigilante in the car right now. Still running the stock computer, shifts right around 6900. The rear gearing has 4:10's in it, weight of the car is 3250 - minus the driver.

I don't think I have any pics of the T-Arm, I would have to look.

Sounds like BMR would be the way to go.

I'm going to use a Turbo Style converter so I can use my SFI flexplate that I already have. Most people swap out the standard power glide input shaft for the the turbo shafts. They make pretty stout shafts for the turbo setup.

Ken