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Old 12-04-2009, 06:08 PM   #41
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question i did a 4.3 to 5.3 swap in my silverado about a month and a half ago. two weeks after swap coming back home tranny wouldnt work. after rebuild and install still nothing coming from transmisiions.

builder says it could be a different bell housing??? pushing tq converter away from tranny..... or needing spacers??? i think its the pump.

is an 02 V6 tranny diff from 04 5.3??? different bellhousings??? what space could i use???
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
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question i did a 4.3 to 5.3 swap in my silverado about a month and a half ago. two weeks after swap coming back home tranny wouldnt work. after rebuild and install still nothing coming from transmisiions.

builder says it could be a different bell housing??? pushing tq converter away from tranny..... or needing spacers??? i think its the pump.

is an 02 V6 tranny diff from 04 5.3??? different bellhousings??? what space could i use???
2 different length hsgs. The hsg on my 05/4L60e, out of a Hummer is about 9/16" longer than the mockup trans case I have. Not sure what it came out of.
I can see where the use of the longer hsg would affect the converter/pump engagement.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:11 PM   #43
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I remember that Car Craft (can't remember which issue off the top of my head) had the information on what is needed to put an LS motor onto a 350, 400, 7004r, Muncie, 2004r transmissions.
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:02 PM   #44
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i know im bring this back.

i have a 5.3 engine and want to mate it up with my th400
im still confused on what i need and what i dont. The guys at scoggin dickey sold me a hughes flex plate(hp4004) and spacer(hp3795).
From what im getting on the read is i only needed the spacer and the longer bolts. Am i right? can i return the flex plate or do i need that still. My current flex plate is a dished one.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:05 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_lt4 View Post

- gm stock 6.0 crankshaft spacer 12563532 and longer bolts 12563533, this spacer can be used with either the flat or curved flexplate ( if using the curved style flexplate the flexplate goes on the crank first then the spacer goes on then the bolts, if using the flat 6.0 flexplate the spacer goes on the crankshaft first then the flexplate then the bolts)
I'm a little confused by this information...

I have a stock 2004 5.3 engine with the curved flexplate and attaching a 1999 4L60e transmission to it (old style input shaft).

I installed the GM spacer first, then the dished flexplate (with holes elongated for the TC) which actually pushed my flexplate out the thickeness of the spacer from stock And after installing my tranny the torque convertor is binding against the flexplate...I can loosen the tranny 1/8" or so from the block and it spins freely.

So am I correct in saying that the spacer should have went on after the flexplate? Is that why I'm binding is because my flexplate is pushed too far out now.

Why even use the spacer in the configuration descibed above, is it for proper TC alignement?

Please help, I'm going to remove my tranny again tomorrow and try to resolve this.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:20 PM   #46
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I found the article from Car Craft on how to put an LS motor onto an old GM tranny.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...n_3/index.html
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:50 PM   #47
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Maybe I need to swap out my dished flexplate for a flat flexplate....that would give me the clearance I need it would seem.

Any suggestions anyone?
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:09 PM   #48
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if you have a curved flex plate,, put the flex plate on the crank first, then the spacer , then the bolts


if you have a flat flex plate,, put the spacer on the crank first, then the flex plate, then the bolts
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Old 05-23-2010, 07:12 AM   #49
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Quote:
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if you have a curved flex plate,, put the flex plate on the crank first, then the spacer , then the bolts


if you have a flat flex plate,, put the spacer on the crank first, then the flex plate, then the bolts
Thanks, I wished I knew this before wrestling that tranny in place I was just told I needed a spacer, I automatically assumed it was to be placed before the flexplate - no matter which one I had.
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:56 AM   #50
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Ok, this is where I'm at right now, dished flexplate and spacer after the flexplate...is this correct?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-27-2010, 05:57 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermouse4 View Post
I found the article from Car Craft on how to put an LS motor onto an old GM tranny.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...n_3/index.html
Nice article but they don't address the TV cable, which is the one thing keeping me from doing this swap.
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:31 AM   #52
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Just a couple of notes...when you purchase the TCI flexplate...part number 399753, it comes with the crankshaft spacer. If you plan on using the OE flexplate and just add the spacer, you can purchase just the TCI spacer...it's part number 399753PE. I just checked with Jegs and it's only $22.
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:32 AM   #53
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i bought the entire kit from pace performance for 86 bucks. includes everything needed. i put a 700r4 behind my ls1
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:52 PM   #54
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Just subscribing for later!!
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:45 AM   #55
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Quote:
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I have a 6.0 with a flat flywheel(not sure what model) If I use the spacer first, then the flywheel,will the stock starter still work?
I bought the spacer and flat flywheel from gmpp, but have the same question about the starter.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:19 AM   #56
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Quote:
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I bought the spacer and flat flywheel from gmpp, but have the same question about the starter.



yes, factory starter works fine
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:43 PM   #57
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I have been thinking about this for a little bit, and I am wondering if the following has been done?

The crank mounting flange is 0.4" more forward. The LS-1 clutch is 0.6" taller. So the clutch is only .2 too far aft. So, what if I used a 0.2" spacer between the block and the Camaro bellhousing - the clutch ought to be in the proper position fore-and-aft for my T-5 and the throwout bearing. All I need is a sleeve for the input shaft bearing that is 0.6" in length and it all seems like it ought to fit fore-and-aft. Which leaves the bellhousing fitment issues.

When under the car, the bellhousing seems like it needs more clearance on the bottom side, so why not remove some material and weld in a semicircle of aluminum plate if reinforcement is necessary?

The starter, seeing the stock LS-1 flywheel, ought to be happy. I do wonder about the amount of throw that needs to be seen by an LS-1 clutch versus the Gen-I clutch.

The only reason I am contemplating this is because it is a bit cheaper than the $1000 it will take to do the job per the article referenced earlier. Seems like even if I shop out the fab work for the bellhousing I ought to be in it for little of nothing.

Thoughts? What am I missing? If this fails, I have a 700R4 that can go in for cheap, but I wanted to run a 5-speed behind my bone-stock 5.3 until I get the scratch to spring for something else. BTW - 2400lb car, daily driver - not a race car.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #58
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^ I have been thinking the same. I have 2 t-5's and would just like to know .
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:03 PM   #59
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^ I have been thinking the same. I have 2 t-5's and would just like to know .
I can be one of those impatient types. If I don't hear something definitive this week I may just rip into it and find out... :-)
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:44 PM   #60
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Hmm, I may have just answered my own question. Seems like the input shaft of the T5 may not see enough engagement with the clutch disc. That seems to be the thing to measure to see if this is all a big WOT.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:44 PM
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