Installed a shift kit ... my thoughts on it, long
02-13-2007, 03:58 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Installed a shift kit ... my thoughts on it, long No pics as some excellent ones have already been posted by SSmokin 01 in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/646029-installed-shift-kit-some-other-trans-parts-warning-alot-pics.html
Read up on SKs, bought an unused TransGo with the video off a board member. The quality of the video sukks, bad audio and video. But it did run you thru the install, had a couple of decent tips, but not worth the extra scratch for the video version IMO.
I've done SK installs on old style A3s, 4L60E is more involved. If you can rebuild a carb or install a cam, no problem. Just pay A LOT of attention as you take stuff apart so you know how it goes back together (notes/drawings help). But if changing a water pump gives you pause... consider paying a pro to do the work. I made a check list ahead of time of what I was going to do and pretty much followed it. I screwed up one thing... didn't install the filter b4 I put the pan on... wasn't on my list. DOH! Luckily I noticed it sitting there B4 I dropped in the ATF or I would have been pizzed at myself.
Do yourself a favor and buy the TransGo seperator plate ahead of time. My internet research had turned up the propensity of check ***** to fubar the factory plate, and sure enough, my plate had check ball stuck half way thru it. TransGo pn: 46-PLT-96, for 4L60E, 1996-04. The plate is a little thicker, but I don't think it's hardened or anything. I used a file to make chamfers where the filters pop in to make it easier to install them, and the file cut the plate easily, so it's about as hard as regular cold rolled steel.
Video said to use a paper clip with a tiny 90* bend at the tip to pull up the roll pin, but I used a small screw threaded lightly into it to do the job. Pin has very little retention force on it if you push in on the part it retains while removing. Also the retention clip for the connector on the big black solenoid by the 2nd accumulator is hard to see. Remove the 2nd accumulator 1st, then you will see it at the back of the connector, pull up on it lightly to pop connector off.
You can get all the guts of the servo out the side of the tranny without unbolting the crossmember to drop the tranny down. Removing the cat heat shield was only thing needed for access. I used a bar to lever the cover so I could pop off the ring clip, then used compressed air (low psi, use safety glasses) to push cover out enough so I could snag the O ring and stretch it down. That, plus some vice grips on the cover boss, allowed me to rotate the cover off. 4th piston came out easy, then I popped the E clip off the shaft, covering the opening as best I could so parts wouldn't go flying around. Then the piston with the red O ring slid out easily.
The 2nd piston needed a little more work as it is taller. I held it out against the floorpan, then I put a screwdriver in thru to the E clip groove on the shaft so I could push the shaft in enough to allow the 2nd piston to pop down. To disassemble the 2nd piston, I used a C clamp to compress the cover so I could pop off the snap ring.
Premarked the plate ahead of time as to the size/location of holes to be drilled. I did the .082" 1-2 hole 1st, then used the same bit to pilot drill the tiny holes that needed to go out to .093", switched to the .093" bit and drilled as required.
I read some say on the boards that up to 8 qts would be needed as the converter would drain out while the valve body was off for the work, but I ended up throwing in about 4, then it wouldn't take any more, started backing up the fill tube. So I started the engine for an instant, shut it off quickly, just enough time for the pump to fill out anything that emptied out. Let it sit for a while as I put away tools to let fluid in tube settle.
Checked it while engine was off to see where it showed on stick b4 adding more ATF so as not to overfill. Showed at the very tip of the stick, so I threw in another 1/2 qt, then started it up and with foot FIRMLY on brake (still up on stands), popped it into reverse. It grabbed, tried drive, good too. So I put it in 1st, let my foot off brake and gave it a little gas, ran it thru 2nd, 3rd, 4th. All good!
Can't give any accurate estimate of the install time as my GF popped over after I had been on the job for a couple of hours, had to give her a poke, send her on her way, then got back to work.
I'd estimate it took me ~ 8 hours. But I'm a detail freak, clean stuff thoroughly, bang the pan holes down, check and double check, blah, blah.
I took flak on CZ28's LS1 section when I posted I did a spark plug change in 4 hours on the Z, so that gives you an idea of how slow I am.
After researching, I had decided to go with the .082" size on the 1-2 feed hole, .093" on the 2-3, no spacers on the 2nd accumulator on my stock converter, 2.73 gear Z. In hindsight, might have gone with a smaller hole for the 1-2. It hits just a little too rough at part throttle. I think it might be aggravated by the 2.73 gear. I set the 1-2 for kill on the TH350 in my 71, but it's a weekend/track car. For my daily driver Z, just a bit much.
Overall, I'm happy with the results. The tranny had an annoying problem where it would take an instant to kick in whenever I took off from a stop. Probably due to the stuck check ball. 1-2 shift at WOT makes the rear dance around, not bad for 2.73s. Have to turn off traction control or else it pulls back engine, causing tranny to shift immediately to 3rd. I used to hate the 1-2 WOT shift when it was stock, felt like you could measure it with a calendar. Now it is
Part throttle 1-2, meh, I'll live with it.
Update 2-17-08: I've gotten used to, now like the 1-2 shift. Trans is still doing great, SK really makes the car much more fun to drive. And knowing there is less wear on my tranny due to factory shift slippage being gone is
Read up on SKs, bought an unused TransGo with the video off a board member. The quality of the video sukks, bad audio and video. But it did run you thru the install, had a couple of decent tips, but not worth the extra scratch for the video version IMO.
I've done SK installs on old style A3s, 4L60E is more involved. If you can rebuild a carb or install a cam, no problem. Just pay A LOT of attention as you take stuff apart so you know how it goes back together (notes/drawings help). But if changing a water pump gives you pause... consider paying a pro to do the work. I made a check list ahead of time of what I was going to do and pretty much followed it. I screwed up one thing... didn't install the filter b4 I put the pan on... wasn't on my list. DOH! Luckily I noticed it sitting there B4 I dropped in the ATF or I would have been pizzed at myself.
Do yourself a favor and buy the TransGo seperator plate ahead of time. My internet research had turned up the propensity of check ***** to fubar the factory plate, and sure enough, my plate had check ball stuck half way thru it. TransGo pn: 46-PLT-96, for 4L60E, 1996-04. The plate is a little thicker, but I don't think it's hardened or anything. I used a file to make chamfers where the filters pop in to make it easier to install them, and the file cut the plate easily, so it's about as hard as regular cold rolled steel.
Video said to use a paper clip with a tiny 90* bend at the tip to pull up the roll pin, but I used a small screw threaded lightly into it to do the job. Pin has very little retention force on it if you push in on the part it retains while removing. Also the retention clip for the connector on the big black solenoid by the 2nd accumulator is hard to see. Remove the 2nd accumulator 1st, then you will see it at the back of the connector, pull up on it lightly to pop connector off.
You can get all the guts of the servo out the side of the tranny without unbolting the crossmember to drop the tranny down. Removing the cat heat shield was only thing needed for access. I used a bar to lever the cover so I could pop off the ring clip, then used compressed air (low psi, use safety glasses) to push cover out enough so I could snag the O ring and stretch it down. That, plus some vice grips on the cover boss, allowed me to rotate the cover off. 4th piston came out easy, then I popped the E clip off the shaft, covering the opening as best I could so parts wouldn't go flying around. Then the piston with the red O ring slid out easily.
The 2nd piston needed a little more work as it is taller. I held it out against the floorpan, then I put a screwdriver in thru to the E clip groove on the shaft so I could push the shaft in enough to allow the 2nd piston to pop down. To disassemble the 2nd piston, I used a C clamp to compress the cover so I could pop off the snap ring.
Premarked the plate ahead of time as to the size/location of holes to be drilled. I did the .082" 1-2 hole 1st, then used the same bit to pilot drill the tiny holes that needed to go out to .093", switched to the .093" bit and drilled as required.
I read some say on the boards that up to 8 qts would be needed as the converter would drain out while the valve body was off for the work, but I ended up throwing in about 4, then it wouldn't take any more, started backing up the fill tube. So I started the engine for an instant, shut it off quickly, just enough time for the pump to fill out anything that emptied out. Let it sit for a while as I put away tools to let fluid in tube settle.
Checked it while engine was off to see where it showed on stick b4 adding more ATF so as not to overfill. Showed at the very tip of the stick, so I threw in another 1/2 qt, then started it up and with foot FIRMLY on brake (still up on stands), popped it into reverse. It grabbed, tried drive, good too. So I put it in 1st, let my foot off brake and gave it a little gas, ran it thru 2nd, 3rd, 4th. All good!
Can't give any accurate estimate of the install time as my GF popped over after I had been on the job for a couple of hours, had to give her a poke, send her on her way, then got back to work.
I'd estimate it took me ~ 8 hours. But I'm a detail freak, clean stuff thoroughly, bang the pan holes down, check and double check, blah, blah. I took flak on CZ28's LS1 section when I posted I did a spark plug change in 4 hours on the Z, so that gives you an idea of how slow I am.
After researching, I had decided to go with the .082" size on the 1-2 feed hole, .093" on the 2-3, no spacers on the 2nd accumulator on my stock converter, 2.73 gear Z. In hindsight, might have gone with a smaller hole for the 1-2. It hits just a little too rough at part throttle. I think it might be aggravated by the 2.73 gear. I set the 1-2 for kill on the TH350 in my 71, but it's a weekend/track car. For my daily driver Z, just a bit much.
Overall, I'm happy with the results. The tranny had an annoying problem where it would take an instant to kick in whenever I took off from a stop. Probably due to the stuck check ball. 1-2 shift at WOT makes the rear dance around, not bad for 2.73s. Have to turn off traction control or else it pulls back engine, causing tranny to shift immediately to 3rd. I used to hate the 1-2 WOT shift when it was stock, felt like you could measure it with a calendar. Now it is
Part throttle 1-2, meh, I'll live with it. Update 2-17-08: I've gotten used to, now like the 1-2 shift. Trans is still doing great, SK really makes the car much more fun to drive. And knowing there is less wear on my tranny due to factory shift slippage being gone is
Last edited by angel71rs; 02-17-2008 at 11:41 AM.
04-21-2008, 11:38 PM
#2
Staging Lane
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Just did my shift kit install and this write-up was helpful, especially the procedure for removing the sevo without dropping tranny down.
As far as the roll pin, I was able to push up on the bottom of the roll pin with a screwdriver tip from the solenoid opening with no problem. Car is definitely more fun to drive!
As far as the roll pin, I was able to push up on the bottom of the roll pin with a screwdriver tip from the solenoid opening with no problem. Car is definitely more fun to drive!
